Ranger will not start 1990 model - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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Old 03-20-2014
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Ranger will not start 1990 model

1990 ford ranger 2wd 4 cyl. will not start.

Ive replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, distributor, checked the spark plugs, cleared the fuel lines, checked for pressure at the fuel rail, checked for spark from the spark plugs and everything checks good.

The engine will not turn over at all. Im at a loss.
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Old 03-20-2014
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just replaced the ignition coil as well, and still nothing.
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Old 03-20-2014
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auto or stick?
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Old 03-20-2014
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Its a stick. Also, I get a fire ball out of the left side when I was checking the spark plugs. But the spark plugs do not spark off like the right side, and the left side is the side I just changed the ignition coil out on. Im confused.......
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Old 03-20-2014
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could it be the crankshaft position sensor??
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Old 03-21-2014
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if it was a CKS you would have no spark...change the timing belt?
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Old 03-21-2014
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A little confused, you changed the "distributor" and have dual spark plugs?????????

Assuming you have the dual coil/dual spark plug system(no distributor) then only 1 coil provides spark when cranking engine, that is normal, both coils are only used once engine is running.

You need 3 things to start an engine
Spark(at the right time)
Fuel/air(in the correct mixture)
Compression(above 110psi)

Too much fuel is an easy test.
Turn on key
Press gas pedal to the floor and hold it there
Crank engine, if it starts to fire you have too much fuel, leave gas pedal down, if it continues to try to fire then most likely a leaking FPR(fuel pressure regulator) so fuel is being sucked into intake from it's vacuum hose, or leaking injector(s)

All EFI computers have the above "clear a flooded engine" software, if computer sees maximum voltage from TPS(throttle position sensor), foot to floor, while engine RPM is 0, it will disable injectors, so when you crank engine with gas pedal to the floor you will have spark but no fuel, so engine should not fire, if fuel is leaking in then engine will fire intermittently.

Crank engine normally, remove spark plug and check that tip is wet with fuel.
If it is you have fuel/air
Connect removed spark plug to it's wire and ground base of spark plug(jumper cable works well for this, holds plug and grounds it at the same time)
Crank engine, this is a double test, look for nice bright spark but also listen for loud "whooosh" from open spark plug hole(compression).
If no spark, remove spark plug wire from the opposite side of same cylinder and use it on the removed spark plug, crank again, only one coil sparks on cranking.

If everything seems ok then you will need to do a compression test to confirm actual compression, remove 1 spark plug from each cylinder for compression test, prop throttle open.
Compression should be over 150psi on each cylinder, but at less above 115psi

get old style timing light hook to #1 spark plug wire and crank engine while watching for light to flash and show TDC mark on main pulley

Last edited by RonD; 03-21-2014 at 01:24 PM.
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Old 03-22-2014
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@RonD......Sorry I meant to say alternator. I will try everything you mentioned to do as well. I also got my Ignition Control Module checked today and it checked good as well.
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Old 03-22-2014
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@DJFllmn The timing belt is good, I changed it last Jan. when it broke and left me stranded on the highway.....good times there!!
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