I have a 2011 4x2 XL. New battery with great voltage.
Last week I had it no crank no start ( plus a clicking from behind dash passenger side), but after disconnecting and reconnecting the battery it started fine. I figured it was a one off, but same thing happened today. Same fix and started up perfectly. Terminals on battery and battery clamps are in decent shape. Any ideas?
thanks!

 

Reads like loose and/or dirty battery cables, at the battery end, confirmed by disconnecting and reconnecting, and having things work again

But lets look at other things as well
When the No Crank occurred did all the dash lights come on like normal?
So battery cables could pass at least 5-10amps

And did the "clicking" in the dash start AFTER you tried to start engine?
"Clicking" is any relay that has less than 5volts from battery

Did you see a Flashing THEFT Light with key on?
PATS disabled START

Failing starter motor, long shot since disconnecting and reconnecting battery cables wouldn't effect this, but a starter motor can get random No Cranks as it fails

Starter motor circuit is a separate system from the rest of the Computer and electronic stuff very uncomplicated
PATS can disable it but there would be a Flashing THEFT light on the dash if that happens
But it does require 60-75 AMPs from the battery all at once(which is why those cables to starter are so BIG, lol), so No Crank and "clicks" is 99% of the time bad battery cable connections

 

TYVM!! My boys had the truck when this started, but my understanding is that initially when trying to start, all the lights came on on the dash and (and the cabin light FWIW), then after a few tries at starting it, nothing came on on the dash plus the cabin light stopped coming on when door open. The theft light just came on with all the others, but was not on on its own.
The clicking in the dash occurred when the key was turned into the on position. I will reply when I can reproduce the issue again, with more accurate observations.

Prior to installing a new battery a couple months ago, the cable clamps (battery end) were badly corroded, but I had gotten 95% of that off with a cleaning tool and coke.
I want to say the clamps are there really nice and tight, but must admit that the positive clamp is not secured with the OEM bolt clamp as the original was too corroded to save, so it's just got a random other long bolt in there. I will clean it more to see it that makes a difference. Your comments were super helpful.

 

If there is exterior corrosion on battery cables then cut off those cable ends and put on new ends, do both positive and negative
Battery posts are different sizes, so need different cable ends

Strip back the insulation to expose the Copper wire, if you see whitish corrosion then you will need to replace that cable eventually, but for now use a wire bush and clean off as much as possible, baking soda with water is good to neutralize the corrosion

Battery post clamps are not expensive and not hard to install

The starter motor needs 60-75amps from both battery terminals to work, which means it needs that full surface area of the post and end to have full and clean contact
Using an extra screw/bolt to tighten the end means it is no longer in full contact with the post, one side will be but then only a single contact on the opposite side

That setup can pass 5-20amps so lights are no issue, issue happens with the 60-75amp