Hi everyone! I recently picked up a 2000 Ranger super cab that had been in a fender bender and needed a little tlc on the front end. All the major, required parts are in and working, but there's a black rubber/plastic flap/sheet that attaches behind the turn signal and wraps around the side behind it and down to the bumper that I'm missing on one side, and try as I might I can't seem to find what that part is called. It's not necessary, but because the bumper is a little bit bent and the truck is white, it's very obvious that that part is missing. Does anyone have any idea what that flap is called? Thanks!
- Lawton

 

Welcome to the forum

LMC truck is a good site to see body parts: Truck Parts & Truck Accessories for Chevy, GMC, Ford & Dodge Trucks
Select FORD
Then RANGER(.....NOT pickup, thats for full size trucks)
Then 1983 - 11

Try "Bumper"
And shop now

Rangers had lots of front end part changes so not sure what you are looking for?

Bottom of this page: Truck Parts and Truck Accessories

Has 1998-2000 bumper parts

 

Part is called a "bumper filler or bumper filler pad".
Go to LMC and look at their online Ranger catalog. Page 30 and 31. On page 30 they show the bumper components for your 2000, but don't list a bumper filler.
On page 31, for 2001 and up, they show/list a bumper filler, part # 3.
Don't know why they don't list it for the 2000 and earlier, but do have it for the 2001 and up.
Anyway, it gives you an idea of what your looking for. My 2009 has them, and they look like their held in place by the simple plastic "push pin" fasteners.
No reason why you couldn't just buy a simple rubber inner tube, cut out your own, and attach them with the push pins in the original holes.
Grumpaw

 

Hey I'm new to this forum. I recently acquired a 1997 Ranger XLT 2.3L w/ manual trans and long bed. Do you think LMC truck is a good place to order all the parts I need? Like fuel pumps, filler neck, air filters and what not. Or do you think part stores like Auto Zone are fine as long as I don't need body panels. This truck has 170,000 miles on it so I'm assuming I'm going to be buying parts pretty regularly. Thanks in advance!

 

From what I've seen and read, LMC is a good place to find the discontinued parts, body panels, "hard parts" like frame/suspension parts, ect. Their prices are OK, nothing special, but then again they do have stuff that might not be available anywhere else.
And, you will pay for shipping.
For stuff like filters, oil, fluids, and everyday maintenance supplies, your local parts store is just fine.
Grumpaw

 

The first thing I want to replace is the fuel pump assembly because the fuel gauge is stuck at Max Full. The three brands they offer are: Delphi, PFS, and Spectra. I haven't heard of any of those. Any recommendations?

I know from previous cars that sticking with OEM parts is better in the long run, not sure if any of those brands are supposed to be OEM equivalent.

 

Welcome to the forum

No, not the same, Motorcraft is OEM, and costs as least 3 times as much, but will work for a long long time

3rd party will work, but you may have to change it out, under warranty, 1 or 2 times to get one that lasts longer than a year, so keep the receipt
Any of those brands are fine to use as far as I know, I hate changing fuel pumps so I bite the bullet and get motorcraft

Gas gauge at full reads like wire is unplugged or anti-slosh module in dash is failing/failed

The float/sender in the gas tank uses 10 ohms as Empty, and 160 ohms as Full
If sender wire is disconnected from gauge thats HIGH ohms so would read above Full on gauge

I would pull instrument cluster and use OHM Meter on the yellow sender wire to see if its connected, should see between 10-160 ohms, if you rock the truck, slosh the fuel/float in the tank, ohms should go up and down
If sender seems to work then problem is in the cluster

 

Thanks for the tip. If I find that the anti-slosh module failed, is that replaceable by itself or would it need a new instrument cluster?

 

Great tip, thanks. Is the anti-slosh module replaceable if i find it doesn't work? Or would I need to put a new cluster in it?

 

Anti-slosh module is replaceable and repairable, you can also bypass it

Google: ford anti-slosh

 

Does it make sense that if I disconnect the connector under the hood near the firewall (it's between the sending unit and the slosh module) that the slosh module should read no resistance, possibly an open? Then I would think I would see it move to the extreme empty state instead of continuing to sit at extreme full. Does that make sense? I found the yellow wire with white stripe and put 22 ohms of resistance onto that terminal on the female side of the connector, thats the side that leads up to the slosh module. I grounded the other end of the resistance and turned the key to position II, the fuel gauge didn't budge off of extreme full. I should be able to check the resistance from the sending unit on the male side of this connector as well, just didn't have a DVOM with me when I did this.

 

1989 and up Ford gauges and senders use 16 ohms empty and 160 ohms full

A short to ground is 0 ohms so gauge would read below empty, also if float had a hole and sunk to bottom of tank, or if module shorted to ground in dash

No connection is infinite ohms so gauge should read above full with connector unplugged

Yes use OHM Meter on yellow wire and to a Ground if you see between 16 and 160 ohms then sender is most likely OK, rock the truck and you should see OHMs change as sloshing fuel moves float up and down


BUT..............the yellow/white wire in the engine bay runs to the PCM(computer) so by unplugging it there you may not be disconnecting it from the gauge
Diagram below
Not sure where Splice 253 is, but probably behind the cluster
Last time I traced the yellow/white wire it came into the cab with fuel pump power wire near inertia switch(passenger side), I think it was 1993 Ranger

 

I just remember something about the 2000/2001 Rangers

The 2000 and 2001 had a connector under drivers seat that went thru the floor pan and had issues with corrosion

C340 was the connector used in 2001, C309 on 2000

Diagrams here: https://www.ranger-forums.com/genera...-issue-146864/

Pin 15 is the yellow/white wire on C309, 2000 Ranger

 

Think it’s the same on my 97? I have a service manual and wiring diagram book coming on Tuesday so I can’t say for certain yet.

 

No, won't be the same on 1997

 

This is a photo of the service manual for my 97 2.3l. It shows connector C1007M is coming straight from the sender. I found the connector under the truck connected to the frame rail. I disconnected the connector and checked resistance between the terminal connected to the yellow/white wire and the truck frame. It showed 50k ohms.... that’s a lot of resistance. Do you think that’s pointing to a bad sender? If so, any recommendations on where to get a new one? Should I replace the whole fuel pump? Thanks!

 

Yes, thats a disconnected or bad sender

Not sure if sender is available as a separate part, might be able to pickup a pump assembly up at a wrecking yard, take ohm meter with you to test before buying
1990-2011 Rangers/Mazda B-series should all be the same

Picture of assembly here: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....YL._SX425_.jpg

3rd party, not sure what motorcraft looks like but should be similar

 

Looks like it was a disconnected wire! Thanks for the help Ron!

 

Good Work

Yes, that's some well worn wiring, lol