Hi there was wondering if anyone had some advice on what this issue could be, my truck will only crank over it will not fire, I have spark and there seems to be fuel at the rail. Fuel pump turns on and buzzes for a couple seconds then the noise goes away. I've managed to start the truck by accident through frustation by turning the key from the off to run position repeatedly. So I replaced the ignition cylinder and also the switch which didn't fix the issue. I am thinking fuel pressure regulator now? But I'm at a loss. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

Note: the truck runs perfectly after it is started no fuel issues while running

 

Do 50/50 test first

Pull out air cleaner and spray gasoline or ether(quick start) into the engine
Try to start

If it starts and then dies you have a fuel issue
If it doesn't start then its a spark issue
50/50

The 1989 to 1994 2.3l Rangers only use the Exhaust side coil pack and spark plugs for startup, intake side doesn't start to work until RPMs are above 400
So if you have a problem with exhaust side spark then startup would be hard but it would run fine once started using the intake side

The ICM(ignition control module) for the 1989-1994 did have issues, like TFI modules did.
Its located on the front side of Lower Intake manifold
Unplug connectors and plug them back in, that will clean connections
Also check that screws holding it to intake are there, maybe loosen each then retighten, to clean for better ground



Failed FPR(fuel pressure regulator) would cause rough running after startup, you can check the FPR's vacuum hose for gasoline, gas in that hose would mean it was leaking

Cycling the key on and off 3 times before trying to start will build up fuel pressure at the engine
Normally the computer will only run the fuel pump for 2 seconds with key on, that adds about 10psi fuel pressure, this is a safety feature
Cycling the key on and off 3 times, builds up 30psi pressure which is what its supposed to be, 30-35psi is what 1986-1997 EFI Rangers used

 

So after some more digging into the truck it seems to have poor response when idling. Cuts out when your press the gas pedal.
I checked the vaccum house onto intake for fuel regulator no fuel or anything at it.
Beginning to think it is my fuel filter and the pump. Idling is a bit rough it seems the more I have it running. Would a dirty fuel filter and a weak pump cause these issues? The pump is not auditably weak sounding. ( when you turn the key on it sounds like any other vechicle would)

 

Usually a dirty fuel filter or failing fuel pump would have a good idle but loss of power when driving, higher fuel demand

But its possible

 

Checked fuel pressure. Everything good to go there.
I have unplugged the ECM computer no issues on that. Got truck started using the method of spamming the key on and off and let it sit and run for about 15minutes until it was warm. Everything sounded good no stuttering it idled pretty constantly the whole time. I shut it off then tried to start again with no success just one fire after spamming the key.
What would make it run fine once started but then not be able to start without spamming the key!
At a loss for this thing now if anyone can help that would be awesome. But I guess It might have to go to a shop

 

Did you do 50/50 test again with the No start, that would confirm that you have spark, at the right time and a strong spark......... if it starts up

1989-1994 No starts, after warmed up, are often ICM spark module issues, if 50/50 test also has a No start

 

With a bunch of testing. Taking the truck to the shop where I had it tuned. They are telling me that the ecm is not getting constant power. I have replaced the ignition switch prior to taking it there and I am at a loss for where I need to start looking to get power to the computer. Everything checks out for tests. Fuel pressure is good spark on all cylinders. But it still wont start without turning the key on and off rapidly. Does anyone know which wires I would be looking at for the keyed power to the computer?

 

The computer is not sending power to injectors causing it not to start. Is there any sensors that would cause this??? I've checked all my sensors on the air intake system everything looked fine and it runs good once its started

 

Should the ignition switch have power to the metal part? I didnt disconnect the battery when taking out the old one and it sparked then I went and disconnected it just seeing if thats what its supposed to be??

 

Pin number 1 on PCM(ECM) is a yellow wire and it should have 12volts all the time, not a key on/off wire
Power comes from fuse #4 in engine fuse box

No metal part should have 12volts anywhere in the vehicle, just wires and pins inside switches and connectors

1994 ignition switch just has one fuse, #1 in engine bay fuse box, 60amp
Check that fuse if there was a short