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  #1  
Old 05-26-2014
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Icon5 Troubleshooting No Horn

Never realized the horn didn't work in my truck until I went to use it this morning and now I'm trying to figure out whats up. Checked fuse #10 and it looks good, swapped relay #7 with the fuel pump one and still no horn. Tested the horn separately and it works just fine. No power coming down to it when I tested with a voltmeter. Don't hear any relay clicking when I push the horn.

I pulled the airbag off and see where the previous owner tucked the ribbon cables away from the removed cruise control buttons. Back when I bought the truck in October they told me cruise hadn't worked in a few months and the buttons broke so they took them off.

Without those controls would the horn not work or should it still work even without the cruise buttons attached?
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Old 05-26-2014
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If you ground the Yellow/Lt Green wire at the relay the horn should work. If so, the problem more than likely lies up in the column within the clockspring contacts for the horn.
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Old 05-26-2014
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All buttons on the steering wheel including the horn are connected to the vehicle wiring via the clock spring wire.

This is not a spring just a coil of wire that looks like a clock spring on an old windup clock.

I would imagine this is why the Cruise stopped working, so if possible get some new buttons so you can fix cruise and horn at the same time.

This video is for full size Ford Trucks but Ranger will be similar:
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Old 05-26-2014
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If you ground the Yellow/Lt Green wire at the relay the horn should work. If so, the problem more than likely lies up in the column within the clockspring contacts for the horn.
I found a yellow/green wire going to the #7 relay and tried grounding it out but no noise from the horn.
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Old 05-27-2014
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Verify you have power on both sides of fuse #10 in the Power Distribution Box. Next pull the horn relay and verify you have power at the Yellow Lt blue wire (Term 1 and 5) of the relay socket. If power is available at these two terminals, momentarily jump term 5 to term 3 (Dark blue wire). The horn should work. If not, then there is an open circuit between the relay and horn.

To verify the control side, connect a Ohm meter to term 2 of the socket (Yellow Lt green wire) and the other end to chassis ground. Push the horn switch on the steering wheel. The meter should read continuity. If not, then there is an open circuit between the relay and horn switch to ground
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Old 05-27-2014
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Verify you have power on both sides of fuse #10 in the Power Distribution Box. Next pull the horn relay and verify you have power at the Yellow Lt blue wire (Term 1 and 5) of the relay socket. If power is available at these two terminals, momentarily jump term 5 to term 3 (Dark blue wire). The horn should work. If not, then there is an open circuit between the relay and horn.

To verify the control side, connect a Ohm meter to term 2 of the socket (Yellow Lt green wire) and the other end to chassis ground. Push the horn switch on the steering wheel. The meter should read continuity. If not, then there is an open circuit between the relay and horn switch to ground
Checked for power on the fuse and only one side has power the other had nothing.

Then tried the test you mentioned on the relay and no power on either 1 or 5.

Then tried putting my multimeter to check for resistance and get a reading of 1 on terminal 2 even when pressing on the horn switches.
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Old 05-27-2014
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Ok disregard most of that last post. Realized I should be testing for power on the fuse with it in place, which then I have the same voltage reading across both sides.

Then had power on terminals 1 and 5 of the relay and was able to jump 3 and 5 to get the horn to work.

Still get a ohm reading of 1 on terminal 2. So sounds like a broken clockspring maybe? Is there a wire I can test between the clockspring and the relay terminals to make sure that wiring is good?
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Old 05-28-2014
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Originally Posted by cantdrive55 View Post
Ok disregard most of that last post. Realized I should be testing for power on the fuse with it in place, which then I have the same voltage reading across both sides.

Then had power on terminals 1 and 5 of the relay and was able to jump 3 and 5 to get the horn to work.

Still get a ohm reading of 1 on terminal 2. So sounds like a broken clockspring maybe? Is there a wire I can test between the clockspring and the relay terminals to make sure that wiring is good?
Terminal 2 at the relay socket (yellow/Lt Green wire) runs to the steering column and up through the clockspring to the horn contact switch. When you push the horn pad, it closes the contacts connecting the circuit to chassis ground through the clockspring via a black/white wire running down the column to ground.

Terminal 2 is the ground side of the relay control circuit. Applying a grounded jumper to this terminal with the relay plugged in the horn should sound.

If you’re reading 1 ohm between terminal 2 and chassis ground, regardless whether you push the horn pad, then the circuit is grounded and would be causing the horn to sound continuously.

What you should see is the meter reading infinity (no continuity) until you push the horn pad. Once you push the horn pad, the meter should read around .1 - .2 ohms. But even at 1 ohm, the horn relay should energize and sound the horn.
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Old 05-28-2014
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Just tested by grounding terminal 2 with the relay plugged in and the horn worked just fine.

I'm a bit novice to the whole electrical thing so maybe I'm doing the continuity part wrong? This is the meter I'm using.
7 Function Multimeter

I switch it to 200 on the ohms section and it just reads 1 . no matter if the horn switch is depressed or not and even without trying to measure anything. So maybe this meter just reads 1 instead of showing an infinity sign?

BTW, I really appreciate your help on this thus far!
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Old 05-28-2014
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Originally Posted by cantdrive55 View Post
Just tested by grounding terminal 2 with the relay plugged in and the horn worked just fine.

I'm a bit novice to the whole electrical thing so maybe I'm doing the continuity part wrong? This is the meter I'm using.
7 Function Multimeter

I switch it to 200 on the ohms section and it just reads 1 . no matter if the horn switch is depressed or not and even without trying to measure anything. So maybe this meter just reads 1 instead of showing an infinity sign?

BTW, I really appreciate your help on this thus far!
Based on your findings I’m willing to put money on the clockspring being the problem as RonD eluded. However, if you’d like to test further, try the following:

1. Disconnect the Battery before proceeding. This is a safety precaution when disconnecting any electrical components involving the air bag system.
2. Pull the relay.
3. Pull the horn pad and disconnect the electrical connectors (note which go to the horn switch’s.
4. Set your meter to ohms and insert one of the probes into terminal #2 of the relay socket. Insert the other probe into the connector from the clockspring that goes to the horn switch’s. You should see a reading of 1 ohm or less.
5. Next pull the probe from the clockspring connector and connect it to a good chassis ground. Meter should read OL or out of limit (what ever it shows when first set to ohms without the probes touching anything). If it still reads 1 ohm or less, you’re going to have to remove the steering wheel and clockspring to test further.
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Old 06-11-2014
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Just wanted to come back and thank you again for the help. Got a new clock spring put in last night and the horn works again. Got a used set of cruise control buttons and even they work now too!
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