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Truck went swimming

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Old Nov 7, 2005
  #26  
LILBLUE04FX4L2's Avatar
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From: Exit 105 New Jersey
once the engine fired on ALL cylinders there would be no water in them
 
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Old Nov 7, 2005
  #27  
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oh?

i ***umed you could still have water in there...
 
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Old Nov 7, 2005
  #28  
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From: Somewhere, XYZ
Originally Posted by Trevelyn1015
and colin, i know all about paying to play. above and beyond what anyone on this site even knows or most have experienced.

i would rather have a dent, or get stuck and pulled out, than replace the most important and expensive pieces to a truck. that was why i said what i said.
Oh, I understood what you were trying to say. I just thought it was worth pointing out that even sticking to rocks, or sand, or whatever does not go too far to avoiding expensive damage..
 
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Old Nov 7, 2005
  #29  
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yeah.

i guess i view body damage as less worrysome...

you can still drive your truck from point a to point b, with most body damage...
 
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Old Nov 7, 2005
  #30  
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and besides, chicks dig body damage, not blown motors
 
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Old Nov 7, 2005
  #31  
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Well, I checked everything out and it appears everything is fine and dandy. Oil is clean, tranny fluid is clean, etc. I am going to extend the breathers, I will search b/c I am sure that topic is in here. Thanks for the help.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2005
  #32  
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From: Kennett Square, PA
Clean is no the issue with the fluids, it's water and the result of it which is "hydration". You can't see the kind of hydration damage that will reduce the lubricants effectiveness: CHANGE THE FLUIDS. Everyone has told you this, so don't think you know better by looking at the oil. Just do it.

I extended my breathers, and it's a good idea for sure!

You can see information on how I did mine on my Cardomain page. It's well down the first page. Link is in my signature.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2005
  #33  
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As stated in Earlier post I plan on switching to all synthetic anyway, Its just there is no water puddles sitting on top of my oil.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2005
  #34  
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You don't need big puddles of water to do severe damage in relatively short time, moisture alone will cause all sorts of havoc. Fluid changes IMMEDIATELY.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2005
  #35  
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oil floats on water, fyi.

so, the water would be at the bottom, bud.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2005
  #36  
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Check to make sure no seals got covered in oil. No! the seals with flippers!

Aaron
 
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Old Nov 8, 2005
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Trevelyn1015
oil floats on water, fyi.

so, the water would be at the bottom, bud.
I flipped my truck over to check.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2005
  #38  
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From: Kennett Square, PA
Originally Posted by Red_Ak_Ranger
Check to make sure no seals got covered in oil. No! the seals with flippers!

Aaron
Navy SEALS in his truck???
 
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Old Nov 8, 2005
  #39  
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Here are the pics, this is the morning after, there was a quick hose down at the local FD before we hit the roads but this is what is left.



I got a quote from a local tranny shop, they said it would be about 175 for a tranny change to amsoil. They said something about the converter not being able to be drained so they couldn't flush the system, but it didn't need it becasue the fluid ford uses is a mix of syn, and reg. Are they making crap up?
 
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Old Nov 9, 2005
  #40  
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looks good you get everythin figured out...

man want roading in a new 06...lol...somethin i wouldnt of done lol
 
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Old Nov 9, 2005
  #41  
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From: Kennett Square, PA
There is a flush procedure on the Amsoil site that uses the pump in the tranny to flush it. I used it on my truck and got a tremendous change in shift quality after draining and refilling the system. To summarize:

1. Drop the pan and change the filter
2. Refill with the 5 quarts or so needed for the sump.
3. Remove fluid cooler line and drain into large pan with engine at idle, adding fluid from the fill hole (dipstick) at the same time.
4. When you've added enough to make up for the remaining fluid that had to be flushed, then shutdown.
5. Check and adjust the level as required.

This will get the vast majority of old fluid out of the tranny.

I disconneced the top line into the cooler on the radiator (mine has both types).

Here's my original topic on the procedure: https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ead.php?t=1319
 
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Old Nov 9, 2005
  #42  
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Originally Posted by HighRollerII
looks good you get everythin figured out...

man want roading in a new 06...lol...somethin i wouldnt of done lol
Yeah, Wish I hadn't, But hey what are trucks for,,Otherwise I could have gotten a KIA!!!!!
 
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Old Nov 9, 2005
  #43  
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John, Appreciate the help, Really...When are you going to write your book. I have burned through 2 shifts at work reading your cardomain sit AND I still don't understand all of it. Let me know when it comes out. At least hold a work shop every year to teach us less technical people about LED's and breather tubes. I am going to extend all my tubes (on my truck any way) and take pics, so hopefully I can post them on my domain page. Would it be OK to connect the two diff breathers with a T connector to keep it a little neater?
 
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Old Nov 9, 2005
  #44  
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From: Kennett Square, PA
I'd keep it to breathers of the same type, maybe? Don't know. If fluid of one type get pushed up in there somehow you don't want it getting into another "box" -- but probably that's a remote chance if it's even a problem at all.

You're welcome! I've been at this for awhile -- it just builds up over time, lol.

My breather tube stuff is short of a real how-to -- so get it done and photographed and make a real one on it as your first how-to! That's how it always starts, very small...
 
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Old Nov 9, 2005
  #45  
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From: Somewhere, XYZ
Why would you connect the axle breathers? They are several FEET apart from each other. Seems like a lot of extra tubing (and work) for no real gain..
 
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Old Nov 9, 2005
  #46  
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Originally Posted by NHBubba
Why would you connect the axle breathers? They are several FEET apart from each other. Seems like a lot of extra tubing (and work) for no real gain..
The idea is that both breathers are going to be moved to the engine-bay. As the rear dif tube goes by the front axle I could just connect those. That way instead of having a tube for the rear, for the front, for the tranny, and for the transfer case I would have 1 tube that provides air for both diffs, and then a tube for the tranny and one for the tc. having 3 tubes would be somewhat less cluttered than 4. thats all!.
 
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