Truck wouldn't start when warm... Bad ground?
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From: Danville
Truck wouldn't start when warm... Bad ground?
I've used this forum for years to help diagnose problems with my fords, but this particular problem I seem to of hit a wall...
93.5 mazda b4000 with a 4.0 manual transmission 4x4
The situation: i pulled the transmission a few weeks ago and installed a new slave and master cylinder... once the work was completed i went for a test drive (no problems) shut the truck off, come back 10 minutes later to restart it and it would crank but not start. (Frustrating since its seeningly unrelated to the work i had just completed).
I waited a full day to mess with it... again the truck started but would not restart once warm and was idling low. I went and bought an Innova ford EecIv code reader to hook up and try and pull codes and couldn't get it to pull anything. I tried the paperclip method to get the CEL to flash.... nothing. (This truck has the 6 pin + 1pin hookup) Finally i ran a wire from the neg. On my battery to the paperclip... the CEL started flashing but i was unprepared for the codes... on the next restart it flashed 111 all clear.
I used that same ground wire to hook up my code reader and noticed that with the code reader OFF and the ground hooked up the CEL goes away... unhook that ground and the CEL comes on... With that ground wire from the battery hooked up to the 1 lone wire the truck starts no problem and i have no CEL. If i take that ground wire away it wont start.
So my questions are: 1.) can i splice a new ground into that one lone pin/wire? 2.) Is that one lone wire/pin supposed to be a ground? I've rechecked all the work i did on the transmission and dont see any grounds that i might of undone.... 3.) If i do ground out that one wire will i get a CEL with future problems?
^^correction*** i originally thought the lone wire was the ground that i needed... its the right side pin of the row of 2 when the row of 2 is positioned at the top of the connector... so my questions are to do with that particular wire, not the lone one
93.5 mazda b4000 with a 4.0 manual transmission 4x4
The situation: i pulled the transmission a few weeks ago and installed a new slave and master cylinder... once the work was completed i went for a test drive (no problems) shut the truck off, come back 10 minutes later to restart it and it would crank but not start. (Frustrating since its seeningly unrelated to the work i had just completed).
I waited a full day to mess with it... again the truck started but would not restart once warm and was idling low. I went and bought an Innova ford EecIv code reader to hook up and try and pull codes and couldn't get it to pull anything. I tried the paperclip method to get the CEL to flash.... nothing. (This truck has the 6 pin + 1pin hookup) Finally i ran a wire from the neg. On my battery to the paperclip... the CEL started flashing but i was unprepared for the codes... on the next restart it flashed 111 all clear.
I used that same ground wire to hook up my code reader and noticed that with the code reader OFF and the ground hooked up the CEL goes away... unhook that ground and the CEL comes on... With that ground wire from the battery hooked up to the 1 lone wire the truck starts no problem and i have no CEL. If i take that ground wire away it wont start.
So my questions are: 1.) can i splice a new ground into that one lone pin/wire? 2.) Is that one lone wire/pin supposed to be a ground? I've rechecked all the work i did on the transmission and dont see any grounds that i might of undone.... 3.) If i do ground out that one wire will i get a CEL with future problems?
^^correction*** i originally thought the lone wire was the ground that i needed... its the right side pin of the row of 2 when the row of 2 is positioned at the top of the connector... so my questions are to do with that particular wire, not the lone one
Last edited by Drev92; Oct 16, 2019 at 12:44 PM.
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