i just don't know where to mount themain unit. what wires i don't need... i'll probably just end up taking it in anyway just cause apart from knowing what to do, it will be cleaner

 

The unit itself doesn't need to be physically mounted to work, i would say that 90% or more of people just zip tie the alarm to something rigid or a thick harness in the vehicle, if you can give me the model numbers of your alarm, the bypass module and the year of your truck I can post up what needs to go to what, and how to test them, the wiring you don't need, you wont need the majority of the wiring coming out of the alarm.

Also if you have power doorlocks, want the domelight activation or not (most places iv worked at dont hook it up unless you ask for it) but i like to.

Once you can test and find all the wires you need, almost everything can be done from the drivers side usually, almost everything can be found at the steering column, headlight switch and near the driver side kick panel.

Just let me know if you want to take it on, it was overwhelming for me when i first started.

 

2006, Viper 5901, xpresskit PKALL

 

I'll have to post it in bits at a time, especially since im at work and only have a short time left on my lunch break but here is the wiring you will need to find in your vehicle.

12 VOLT CONSTANT YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
STARTER RED/LIGHT BLUE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
IGNITION 1 LIGHT GREEN/PURPLE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
IGNITION 2 BLACK/LIGHT GREEN (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 1 GRAY/YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
PARKING LIGHTS ( + ) BROWN (+) @ SJB, BROWN Plug, Pin 8, See NOTE *1

But its always easier to get the parking light wire at the actual headlight switch most of the time, less clutter.

POWER LOCK PINK/YELLOW (TYPE B) @ SJB. LARGE BLACK Plug, Pin 5, See NOTE *1
POWER UNLOCK PINK/LIGHT GREEN (TYPE B) @ SJB, LARGE BLACK Plug, Pin 9, See NOTE *1

DOOR TRIGGER YELLOW/BLACK (-) and GRAY/RED (-) Use both, See NOTE *2 @ SJB, See NOTE *1
DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION BLACK/LIGHT BLUE (+) @ SJB, GRAY Plug, Pin 14, See NOTE *1

HORN YELLOW/LIGHT GREEN to DARK BLUE (-) @ SJB, SMALL BLACK Plug, Pin 18, See NOTE *1
TACH Any wire that is NOT RED @ any IGNITON COIL or FUEL INJECTORS

You should also be able to program the alarm to voltage sensing instead of tach sense if you choose, i did on my truck and it works just fine.

BRAKE LIGHT GREEN (+) @ SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL

NOTE *1 The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is the FUSE/RELAY BOX in the PASSENGER KICK PANEL.

NOTE *2 The YELLOW/BLACK (-) is for the DRIVERS DOOR, LARGE BLACK Plug, Pin 6 at the SJB and the GRAY/RED (-) is for the PASSENGER DOOR, SMALL BLACK Plug, Pin 3 of the SJB.

When connecting to an ALARM SYSTEM use both DOOR TRIGGER wires and DIODE ISOLATE, to connect.

I have the alarm installation manual, I'll go over it when I have a chance to as soon as I get home and look up the wiring for the bypass kit as well.

Do you have or have access to a voltmeter or computer safe test light?

 

ok so what does the horn yellow/light green to dark blue mean? two different wires?

and whats this nonsense about diodes at the door triggers?

 

When ever you see a wire color that is split like that, the first color is the main color the second is the secondary color usually a stripe, and veeery seldomly a dotted line.

The alarm maaaay have not came with diodes, all a diode does is allow the flow of current in 1 direction, so since you have 2 seperate door triggers, you need to connect them both to one wire going to the alarm, but at the same time keep the separate. know what i mean?

Its super easy, you can butt splice them in line but i highly recommend you solder then in line in a Y shape from the alarms - door trigger, into each door trigger wire, the side of the diode with the stripe on it is the output side, so the stripe would be on the side of the alarm.

Does that make sense?

 

How would a gun stop someone from stealing your stuff? Obviously you don't know they're there if they're stealing your stuff so what good is a gun going to do? You gonna put a warning sticker on the car that says "Warning: I own a gun" or something? lol

 

And sorry about the wire to wire color thing, i think it was a mistake in the print i believe it should say or, it should be one of those 2 colored wires.

 

yeah the diode thing makes sense i guess.
what's the brake wire for?
and i was also under the impression most of the wires for the autostart weren't necessary with the bypass module taking care of it. is this the case?

 

The brake wire is to ensure that if you start your car and some one hops in and tries to speed away laughing and pointing, as soon as the brake is depressed before the key is inserted and turned to the ignition position, it shuts down the engine.

That hood pin is also a good thing to have to make sure the engine wont start with the hood up, and to set the alarm off if its opened while armed.

 

There really isnt all that many wires it looks like you need for the bypass module itself, most of the alarm wires give like both + and - out/in puts for everything to be able to work with any vehicles wiring configurations, you really will cut down on a lot of them once you get into actually doing it.

 

I have to agree with the guy who said its kind of a waste. How many times have you guys seen in a mall parking lot a car's alarm is going off. There's a person near the car and it might be the owner, might not, but nobody cares. Most people are annoyed and think that the person has no clue how to operate their Key Fob. I know i'm guilty of this because there are three family's that live in my apartment complex that can't figure out their damn Key Fob and set their own alarm off almost daily. I know that if I heard it go off at night i wouldn't even look to see if its being broken in to, i'd just be annoyed that the idiots can't figure out their stuff.

I have a two rules i live by to limit the chances that my car/truck will be broken into.

- Do not leave valuables in sight, might seem obvious but i can't count the times i see in a car with ipods, phones or GPS's just laying about.
- Do not blare loud music near an area you're about to park/live. All you're doing is saying Hey look at me i've got a sound system that's worth stealing.
- Don't leave change in your ashtray, and if you do don't leave the ashtray open, Crackhead love change.

 

LMFAO

but the nice thing about a 2-way system is the remote says "hey your ****s getting broken in to" And I don't care about other peoples alarms going off, thats their problem. I know how mine sounds, so when I hear MINE going off I know theres a problem.

 

They do love thems some change..

 

i'm conflicted. not about doing it, it's worth it to me so i am. just if i want to try again or have somebody else work on my truck...

 

i still don't know where I would put the module. can i just stick it on the rear wall? maybe attach it to my sub box... gahh

as far as the tach wire, i guess i have to go through the firewall to injector, nowhere inside there to get it right? and I couldn't get my parking lights to work before, flash with lock unlock.

 

and where can i obtain a diode, i don't even know what one would look like.

 

Thats good if you're in range when you're at home or at work (so long as you don't travel for work or in my case an office building that blocks out any outside signal or sound from getting in) But in a movie theater, at a mall, sometimes that two way signal doesn't reach your key and you certainly aren't going to hear it.

 

Just drop the under dash, you will have to regardless to make your wiring connections, find a heavy wiring harness or something and zip tie the module to it, it will work just fine, if it has an separate shock sensor you can zip it to the steering column or something like the knee bolster thats solid and that doesn't move, it doesn't have to be mounted with screws or anything, really just wherever you can securely keep it, most of the time i keep mine above the gauge cluster since it would he harder for anyone to get to it or disable it.

Radio shack has diodes always, most electronics repair places or hobby shops should have them as well, there cheap and for the most part readily available.



Usually DEI alarms include a little Y shaped white wire a few inches long



with a piece of black shrink wrap tubing in the middle, if you have that its 2 diodes already connected for your convenient connection to the door triggers and the alarm trigger.



If you have skype, i can probably answer whatever questions easier and quicker through there as opposed to the back and forth game of tag through the forum.

 

I didn't have time last night to go through the paperwork, had to crank out a project for someone for biketoberfest, but as promised.

If you're still thinking about doing this, here is the wires you need to use from the alarm itself.

Primary harness H1 12 pin connector

RED (+)12v CONSTANT INPUT
Brown + siren output
Black - chassis ground
Violet + door trigger input
Black/white - dome light output (to be used with relay to trigger dome light on with unlock)
White/blue - remote start (signal used to tell the remote start piece to activate)
White - Parking light output (you need to select the polarity setting)


Aux harness H2 8 pin connector
You only need to use
Brown/black - horn output
if you want to have the horn honk while the alarm is going off.


Heavy gauge remote start H3 10 pin connector

Pink Ignition 1 output
Red/white ignition 2 output
Orange +accessory output
Violet +starter output (car side or engine side of the starter wire)
Green +starter input (the key side of the starter wire)
Red Ignition 1 input (connect to constant 12v wire at steering column)
Red/black (connect to constant 12v wire at steering column)



Remote start input, 5 pin connector

Black/white - neutral safety switch input. (can usually be found at the shifter switch, will have a ground only in park and neutral.
Violet/white tach input (only needed if you use the tach programming as opposed to the voltage sensing)
Brown - Brake shutdown input
Gray - Hood pin switch input


Doorlock harness, 3 pin conector

Blue +lock/- unlock
Green -lock/+unlock

WIll need to be connected to relays before connecting to the doorlocks, if you need the diagram i can post one up, just let me know if you have factory power locks or aftermarket ones.

I believe thats all you need from the alarm itself.


For the immobilizer module you will need to get to the ignition cylinder and find the 4 pin switch connected to it, the diagram should have been sent with the vehicle specific instructions, if you dont i can send you the pdf of it.

There are 4 wires that need to be connected from the module to the truck

Purple/white - rx data in (goes to pin 3 at ignition cylinder)
Yellow/black tx data out ( goes to pin4 at ignition cylinder)
Blue/white - while running goes to alarm, but i dont see a - while running output( can only think of using a relay to give you a ground when ignition is on)
Pink ignition (pin 2 at ignition cylinder)

If you weren't given the fancy 4 pin d2d cable, you only need to connect these 2 wires to the truck.

Blue constant 12v
black ground.

 

Did you quit on this thing guy? Or you still thinking about giving this a shot?

 

still kind of thinking.... but might just give up. my kit didn't come with a diode by the way.
i do appreciate all your help but I'm thinking it might just be better to have it done. i could probably do it now, but just so I can have a nice clean install maybe let them do it. plus I have a lot of homework to do this weekend, so I could sit around and do that while they work on it...

 

it's in. I've got a few things to add myself as well as some settings to fool with. I can definitely take it from here. autostart works great.

i noticed though when i arm it, it says the door is open? it's not. it says it then goes away so it's not a real bother. like to get rid of it though.

going to add the tilt sensor to the toolbox, maybe today, and just plug in the glass break sensor. i didn't have them do it because it's a simple plug in and i don't want to pay for that. might add an external shock sensor later as well. we'll see.

 

ok i do have an actual question now. I'm going to add another siren. how do I wire it in? if it will be ok to hook it to the same siren wire as the first siren i can do that, i just don't know if it can handle it. i could hook them to constant 12v and use a relay i guess. any other options?

 

They may have hooked the alarms + door trigger to the + dome light wire in your truck, so it will arm, say the doors open since the light is on, once the light goes off it chirp again as if the door was closed, its easier and people tend to take that as a shortcut, but I cant be certain that's it unless you were to test it.

I've been told you can hook up a few sirens, but have never done it myself, I would use a relay to be safe, if you overload that output and it goes, your sol from then on, there's no sense in taking the risk, then you have a like 30/40 amp + output when the alarms in full alarm you could also hook other things up to if you chose to, I have 4 corner strobes that go off in my other truck along with a police siren, it does the job.

You could tie in a second shock sensor in your toolbox to help pick up the bed area, but the tilt sensor is a good idea on the lid (unless you park on a hill lol)