try help me......
#1
#7
#8
Originally Posted by spec_ops57
I'm running a 1600W right off a walmart battery and I don't notice any difference in my headlights no matter how hard I have it pounding
whats the current rating on the fuses in the amp?
if your pulling over 40-50 amps you really need a new alt and battery.
P.S. The walmart battery i got lil over a year ago is already worthless. Im going with a red top when this one pukes.
#10
Originally Posted by Blhde
whats the current rating on the fuses in the amp?
if your pulling over 40-50 amps you really need a new alt and battery.
P.S. The walmart battery i got lil over a year ago is already worthless. Im going with a red top when this one pukes.
if your pulling over 40-50 amps you really need a new alt and battery.
P.S. The walmart battery i got lil over a year ago is already worthless. Im going with a red top when this one pukes.
#11
As long as the regular constant draw isn't above the surpluss, a capacitor would be the easiest way to fix the very brief thumps. A capacitor will not fix anything more than a quick thump. Continuous draws require a higher output alternator.
The battery should be meaningless while the truck is running. The alternator should be the only thing supplying power. If you are drawing more current than you alternator can supply, it will fall back on the battery. This means the battery is not charging. This means it is not going to start the truck again pretty soon.
If you are only listening to the stereo with the engine running, then pay no attention to the battery. The only thing it needs to do is start the truck and the standard battery is more than enough. Upgrading the battery would be like sending the power company more money than you were billed for at your house.
If you are listening to the stereo with the engine off frequently, this is the only time you need to worry about upgrading the battery. You will need some kind of deep cycle battery for that. The Optima yellow top is popular. Of course, you will also need the alternator capacity, just like above.
The battery should be meaningless while the truck is running. The alternator should be the only thing supplying power. If you are drawing more current than you alternator can supply, it will fall back on the battery. This means the battery is not charging. This means it is not going to start the truck again pretty soon.
If you are only listening to the stereo with the engine running, then pay no attention to the battery. The only thing it needs to do is start the truck and the standard battery is more than enough. Upgrading the battery would be like sending the power company more money than you were billed for at your house.
If you are listening to the stereo with the engine off frequently, this is the only time you need to worry about upgrading the battery. You will need some kind of deep cycle battery for that. The Optima yellow top is popular. Of course, you will also need the alternator capacity, just like above.
#12
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I'm running a quality true 1000rms for my system, subs and highs. I have a yellowtop, big 3 wiring upgrade, and 5farad capacitor and my lights still dim, but i've never had any problems.
The amperage fuse rating of my 800rms Soundstream sub amp is 130A, and my 4-channel Alpine is 20A. So I'm running about 150A max on a stock alt with no problems...yet. Also running an e-fan and Hellas.
The amperage fuse rating of my 800rms Soundstream sub amp is 130A, and my 4-channel Alpine is 20A. So I'm running about 150A max on a stock alt with no problems...yet. Also running an e-fan and Hellas.
Last edited by rideac1; 04-13-2006 at 12:38 PM.
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