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Old 09-24-2014
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 4
New Guy Here

Hey Y'all,
I recently bought a 93 Ranger XLT and will be asking some questions about it. I am new to Rangers but have been a car guy most of my life. I have a 67 GTO convertible that took 6 years to complete. I bought this truck to drive to work and go to the fields with when I go relic hunting. It is an XLT with the 4.0, 5 speed and A/C. The truck sat for about four years without being cranked so I have a little work ahead of me. The engine started right up after putting a new battery and some fresh ethanol free gas in it. The A/C works so that is a relief because it is a must have down here in South Georgia.
But, the clutch slave cylinder is leaking bad so I have to replace it. The brakes will also need work.
I have some questions that I will post in the appropriate forums so for now I'll shut up.
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Old 09-25-2014
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iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 7,595

Pre-'95 Rangers use the EEC-IV computer which are pretty basic so not alot of issues.
4.0l is a very reliable engine, but don't over heat it, it will crack a head if you do.
The heater cores on these years are the by-pass for the cooling system, this means coolant is always flowing thru the core regardless of "heat setting" inside.
This usually keeps the core fairly clean, but if it sat for awhile it could get clogged up.
If you see the temp gauge start going up above 1/2 then down again randomly, then time to replace the core.
Literally, 4 screws and 2 hose clamps, it will take 20mins the first time, if you every do it again, 10mins.

4.0l only came distributorless and pre-'95 used the EDIS system which is a self-contained "spark" system, it does "talk" to the computer for fuel injector timing(computer runs that) but an EDIS system is autonomous, and very reliable.
4.0l eats many brands of spark plugs, Motorcraft seem to be the best choice for a longer life.

Ranger clutch slaves are a pain, they can be very hard to bleed, and the Master sits almost straight up and down, which can allow it to get air trapped inside.
It is best to use a Self-adjusting Pressure plate for the clutch, as there is no external adjustment, but a standard clutch plate will work.
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Old 09-25-2014
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 4
Thanks for the info. I bought a CSS, MC kit that is already filled. And, I have a mechanic friend that has agreed to do the swap for me.
I am sure there will be other issues to address but for now, getting it in running and stopping condition is all I am after.
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