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  #26  
Old 05-05-2010
--weezl--'s Avatar
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i believe depending on where you get it decoded you CAN get the trim level... it is possible... after all, you punch it in at ford, and it goes back to the factory... here's what i get at one search for mine..

World Manufacturer Identifier - 1st, 2nd, 3rd Positions:
Manufacturer: Ford Motor Company, USA

Make: Ford

Vehicle Type: Truck (Completed Vehicle)

Brake Type and GVWR Class - 4th Position:

Brake System: • Hydraulic brake system, Class D, GVWR 5,001-6,000 pounds, Active Belts & Sec. Gen Air Bags

Line Series, Chassis Type, Body Type - 5th, 6th, 7th Positions:

Line Series: Ranger

Chassis Type: 4x4

Body Type: Pickup - Supercab 4-door

Engine Type - 8th Position:

Engine: 4.0L SOHC

Cylinders: V-6

Fuel Type: Gasoline

Horse Power: 207-210

Model Year - 10th Position:

Model Year: 2007

Assembly Plant - 11th Position:

Assembly Plant: Twin Cities: St. Paul, Minnesota




ford.com also gives me my wheel base, which is 252.0
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  #27  
Old 05-05-2010
Scrambler82's Avatar
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when you order parts the first thing the Parts guys want is the VIN, why to make sure the part fits your overall truck and model.
So I assumed that you would be able to tell.
Right now I am having a great day so sorry bout dat…
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  #28  
Old 05-06-2010
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Ashburnham, MA
Posts: 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by 99offroadrngr View Post
Welcome from Townsend, MA. You guys got some nice trails over there in Ashburnham/Winchendon. Im out there pretty often.
Awesome! My buddy (who also has a ranger) and I are planning on going out on some trails soon.






Also I changed the u-joints last night. It was only a pain because of the bugs attacking me as I was trying to do it.

But while I was under there, it was confirmed that it is lifted a bit. Has some pucks under the leaf springs and the shackles appear to be larger. Also the front springs are bigger than my friends ranger. Bilstein shocks in the front and back too. Trick Flow diff cover, not sure if anything was replaced inside though.

Still getting a slight shudder down low, seems the motor skips a bit when loaded down low which makes the engine shake a bit. Maybe I need a new motor mount? I know I need to replace the plugs, was going to do that this weekend when I change the valve cover gaskets.

Also need to get the exhaust rehung as its tied up with a coat hanger basically and rests on the frame and the spare tire bracket in the back.


So another big thing was it doesn't like the cold start. Starts and runs fine after a few attempts. Is that the Idle Air Control valve?
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  #29  
Old 05-06-2010
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Haha I know I am listing everything that's wrong with it but also the driver's window does not go up all the way. Took the door part yesterday and it seems like the motor might have been replaced once (at least the window has as there was glass still at the bottom of the door. Is it possible that when the installed the motor they didn't line up the teeth with where the window was? Like are you supposed to install it when its all the way up (or down) to insure that its lined up correctly? When it gets to the top (about 1/2" from closed) it just makes a clicking/popping noise like its at the end of the motor built in stop or something.

Any ideas? Like if I drill out the rivets and push the window all the way up and hold it there and put the motor in the right spot should that fix it? or is it actually the window motor? Or is it possible to push that half moon gear on the window rails off enough to bypass the motors gear so I can push the window up and then pull it back into place?
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