Hey guys, super psyched about this forum.

I recently purchased a mazda b2300, 2004 4x2 2.3L inline 4 cylinder. Thing is sweet so far. I have concluded that I need new front rotors (brake pulsation) and new ball joints (they squeak loud when turned). Could also use a new serpentine belt, but the question is where do I start? I have basic hand tools like a breaker bar, ratchet, deep sockets and some normal SAE sockets. I have a 3 ton floor jack and 2 stands that I could use. I don't really have a place to work on it, as I live in town housing, public apartments.

Where can I safely jack up the front end? The crossmember? But then where would I put the jack stands. Sorry for the complete noob questions, I am no auto technician but have been highly interested in doing my own repairs and work, keeping it small. My truck is in decent shape besides normal rust on the frame (no rot thankfully), and besides those couple repairs she'll be up to speed in no time. My owners manual tells me a lot, and I'm super psyched to start doing my own maintenance.. All I've done is change oil and that's about it.

Thanks for the entry to the forums!!!

Happy truckin,
-will

 

Welcome to the forum

Your 2004 B2300 has the 2.3l Duratec DOHC engine, not to be confused with the 2.3l Lima SOHC engines used in Rangers and Mazdas in 1997 and earlier

Fan belt is not to hard to do, there are two different lengths, Vehicles with air conditioning and those without AC
There should be a diagram on the radiator support that shows the pathway of the fan belt.
Make sure it is there or find a diagram on line and print it off

The fan belt is held tight by a tensioner pulley, a spring loaded arm with a pulley attached
These usually have a Square hole in the arm, which you can insert a 3/8's socket wrench drive or extension into, then use that to release the belt tension to remove belt from pulleys


Rotors are not to hard to change.
The front calipers must be removed
Then the caliper holder bolts, these bolts are very tight, 85ft/lb torque, you should have a torque wrench to reinstall these to correct torque, also add Loctite to the threads

With rotor or brake work you do one wheel at a time and jack up that wheel from lower A-frame, so wheel raises up off the ground very quickly.
Loosen lug nuts(break them free) once jack has taken some weight off the tire, but tire is still touching the ground with enough weight so it doesn't spin
Once all 5 are loosened, jack up that wheel so it is off the ground and remove lug nuts and wheel
You won't be under the vehicle at any time so jack stand is optional
ALWAYS put blocks in front of and behind a wheel that will not be off the ground while doing any work

Ball joints are hard to do even with the right tools
You do need to jack up the frame so front suspension can hang loose
And you will need jack stands on the frame so you can use your jack to lower and lift the A-frame to remove and then re-install the ball joints
There is a ball joint removal/install tool that can be rented for the day
The ball joints and associated parts are a big part of the front alignment.
So you need to remember what spacers go where on the upper control arms, you will get new control arms with new ball joint in it, and the old spacers and camber adjuster bolt needs to go back in the same way.
This will make vehicle driveable but just to a shop to get it re-aligned
You must do a front end alignment after doing new ball joints so have that in the budget.

 

Hey thanks for the response man I was really hoping someone would help me out.

so when jacking up the front end, I can place it on the lower a-arm itself? Would the bottom of the spring unit where it meets the lower A-arm be okay? I'm planning on doing rotors and brakes tomorrow. But I need some grease because I'm dealing with tapered-roller bearings right? At least from what I've seen so far.

So 2 rotors and 4 brake pads, 2 grease seals for the rotors and fresh bearing grease?
I just figured maybe I should jack the truck up by the front crossmember. The tabs on the front by the wheels don't seem safe. Again, thanks for the reply. I'm highly interested in doing my own basic maintenance, save some cash that I don't have.
-will

 

Yes, coil spring support can be used

Jacking up a vehicle using the frame/cross member will require you to go very high because of suspension travel
And in that case I would use jack stands

I prefer a-frame because you only need to raise the wheel/jack a few inches because you are not dealing with suspension travel

If your rotors are also the hub then you may need to remove the races from old hub or get new bearings with races to install on the new hub
Yes repack the bearings as needed

Tighten axle nut tight while turning the new rotor then back it off a bit so rotor turns easily but doesn't wiggle.

 

I'm just going to add something here.
Even when working on replacing the front pads and/or rotors, it's always best to use jack stands.
A hydraulic jack can suddenly loose pressure (although be it rare).
When this happens you could have you hand or body inside the fender well trying to undue a stubborn bolt when the jack lets go.

Always use proper jack stands and no masonry bricks.

 

Thanks guys. I jacked up the front crossmember today, but had insufficient space to put 2 jack stands on the ends, so I guess I'll place the jack stands on the bottom of the coil spring support on the a-arm? That's the only reasonable place I can think of

 

The tabs on the control arms themselves just seem too sketchy to put the stands on..

 

Welcome Will

You have just found the best place for great and accurate information about your truck. This place has helped me lots.

When I first got my truck I had zero intention on working on it myself. After reading around here. Talking with members here. I learned that somethings can be done by tech challenged people.

Ron knows a lot. His post are gold.

I'm super glad you found us. This will be a fun adventure here with your truck. These small trucks are very capable of doing things.

Something I would like to add. Get a rust removing wire brush for a drill. Proper face and eye protection. Go under there and clean all the metal. Then get the under body spray from walmart. 3 bucks a can. Cover the entire frame with it. 2 good coats.

I did a partial last year. I got my ranger in September. This year I'm going to do a full coverage. This easy but long job makes your truck last longer. If you do any areas that get hot. Get heat resistant spray paint for those (engine paint). That comes in colors. You could get creative there.

Enjoy yourself here. The only dumb question is the unasked one.

Jim

 

Thank you very much man! What parts should I clean? I'm lucky enough I can get under there without having to jack it up (it would be a tight fit tho) so I may definitely consider that. There is a large amount of rust but no rot and it can definitely last me a while. I was going to do the brake pads and rotors today but alas, rain has fallen on cape cod.

One problem about living here is the rust. I plan to hopefully have this truck for as long as it will allow. Thanks!

 

Use the wire spin thing in a drill on all rust under there. Be carefull not to get any lines or stuff thats not metal. But all rusted places under there. First go under there and pick anything that will come off with your figures and get that out. Then wire brush with drill till it is shiny. It may be a bit pitted. Your going for mostly shiny. Then when done. Wipe it down with water and a rag to get dust off. When dry spray paint with that rustolium stuff from walmart. This makes it look nice. Most important of all it makes the underside last longer. You need something to protect your breathing. A mask filter. It will be a rust storm. Those parts that aren't rusted and look good and you can't pull anything off with your finger save for next time. You might do this every other year or yearly. I do it as needed. Did it on all my SUV's. It does make things last. After all thats the part you can't replace the frame.

 

you have a good point man. You think i can do this treatment to the frame without jacking up the truck? I still can get under there after all... i feel like it would be easier and safer for me to just crawl under there, wire brush the **** out of the frame, dry it, and put the coating on. What if I cant reach some spots? Thanks again for the replies man!! much love!

 

The best and easiest way to get at things to clean and paint is to get some friends and remove the bed.
It sits quite nicely on few well placed saw horses.

 

I agree with Jeff. You can get all of the areas. If you are like me and can't do that. Get a pair of panty hose from a dollar store. Make it so it will go over your head an cover you neck. Under it wear safety glasses. Cut a hole so you can see out of the hose. Wear 3 or 4 painters mask that cover your mouth and nose. Check them regularly. If you can get under it without a jack do it that way.

Don't go ***** to the wall and try to get it done fast. Take a break to clean your glasses off and drink some water. Also shake off the panty hose. They stop rust from getting in hair or on your head if you shave it like I do. It also makes it harder for the rust to get to your eyes. I'm getting primer from walmart this time. So after I'm done I will put 2 coats of primer down. Then 2 coats of the black rubber under body on. Oh. don't do this to the engine unless you know what you are doing. Suspension I leave alone. If you have rust on control arms you can do them. Avoid springs and torchion spring if you have one. Avoid shocks. That could be bad. If you can get leaf springs you should. They should also get paint.

For the wire brush. If you can park in an area where there is wind. That would be to your advantage. No wind for painting. Just need good ventilation for painting. You could get high without good ventilation.

Everything you have on will be full of rust. Afterwards. Rinse out your clothes so it doesn't end up in the wash.

Don't forget to do the finger check first. Getting the big stuff or uncovering holes first can make it easier. Also safer. Chunks can come off and be sharp. You don't want those blasted at you.

This is easy. I just wanted to let you know of a few things. When dry. It will be so new looking under there. Also strong.

Glad to have you here.