Hello all I'm a newbie here and this is my first post ....I wanted to Gain a little HP and MPG's and been doing some Research on the interwebs for a good setup and ran on to what I think was a good one from a Canadian Youtuber Zac at his channel RANGER SHOP that he did to his 2002 4.0 4WD (Mine is a 1996 3.0 2WD w/AC) he used a 16" Flex-A-Lite and an Adjustable Temp Controller with an in hose temp sensor adaptor and showed his Mods to his stock fan shroud and has pretty clear explanation wiring the project. He did some Hose rerouting for a Supercharger he was adding which he was getting ready to add that I won't be doing to mine. He also stated that he was going to do an update to the status of the swap good or bad but hasn't done so YET.. Does anyone see why this wont work on my 1993 Ranger 3.0 2WD Manual Trans Reg Cab XLT SB with AC... I would appreciate any feedback anyone has
Here is a link to his Youtube video of him doing the fan swap Click on link below

You Tube

Thanks Newbie RF member

Here are the parts he Used
Fan... Flex-a-lite 118 Black 16" LoBoy Electric Fan (puller) Amazon >http://a.co/d/4DE1aUk

Controller ..Flex-a-lite 31163 Variable Speed Control Module with Threaded Temperature Sensor Amazon > http://a.co/d/cMjg7il

Hose Adaptor For Sensor...Flex-a-lite (32082) 1-1/2" I.D. In-line Radiator Hose Adapter Amazon >http://a.co/d/cyyIAjr

 

Welcome to the forum

1996 and then 1993 Ranger 3.0l?
lol
Wouldn't matter

Sure give it a shot

Another article here on 3.0l E-fan: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...l-ford-ranger/


The benefits of E-fans is that they can be OFF while you are driving above 30mph and the vehicles motion is forcing more air thru the radiator than any fan ever could, this is when the extra power(it ain't much) and the better MPG comes into play
The E-fan comes on when you slow down and stop, to keep the air flow thru radiator going

The radiator hose bung with temp switch is best, if using upper rad hose be sure to mount it so the temp switch is on the side or bottom of the hose as close to the engine end as practical, the temp switch always needs to be submerged in coolant, it can't detect air temp inside a hose, so if you get low on coolant, no fan, if it was mounted on the top of the hose


With AC activation there are a couple of ways to do it in 1996, both require an added relay
You can get the 12volt ON from the AC compressor clutch wire at the compressor, easiest(black/yellow wire in 1996)
Or you can get it from the Purple wire at the AC lines pressure switch, not hard just need to find the right wire

AC compressor's clutch 12volts cycles on and off like compressor does while AC is on, so E-fan would also cycle on and off

Purple wire has 12volt on when ever you select AC on the dash control, so E-fan stays on no cycling while AC is on

The added relay is activated by the 12volts from AC, it grounds the Temp switch wire just like the temp switch does when its hot enough, so overrides Temp switch
AC on = E-fan on all the time
AC off = Temp switch on or off controls E-fan

 

Thanks for the response and the welcome... Yeah I am looking for mileage increase more than anything and longevity and making the ol girl not to work so hard... The ol 96 is going to have to be my daily driver now its in really good shape body and interior wise frame is pretty rusty I need to start treating it ... Thought about using OSPHO rust converter I have one place I'm going to have to weld a patch plate