New way to nite-shade?...
#27
Originally Posted by weaselbob74
...And, I was also wondering can you use anything other then Nite Shades such as
This model paint?...
This model paint?...
#28
Somewhere on my comp I have a pic from the '04 sema show of a stepside ranger prerunner with the non-niteshaded tails......they were done the "professional" way with a spray gun with clearcoat mixed with black paint...it'll come out shiney and shouldn't get scratches so easy like mine did that I got from Pinecone or Alon, can't remember which.
<looking for the pic>
Shane
<looking for the pic>
Shane
#30
Something else to think about if you NiteShade the inside of the lens...
You would be applying the coating to the inside of the lens. The perimeter of the lens will be glued back on to the reflector. Unless you leave a band of unpainted plastic around the perimeter on the inside of the lens, you will be gluing the NiteShade (not the lens) back to the reflector. Of course, that would mean that you'll have a dark lens when seen from the outside, with a bright red band around the perimeter.
I wouldn't expect that bond to hold up over time. I wouldn't expect the lens to fall off, but as the adhesive pulls the NiteShade off of the lens in some spots along the glue joint, you will get moisture penetration inside the lens.
It's a good idea in theory, but it has its drawbacks...
You would be applying the coating to the inside of the lens. The perimeter of the lens will be glued back on to the reflector. Unless you leave a band of unpainted plastic around the perimeter on the inside of the lens, you will be gluing the NiteShade (not the lens) back to the reflector. Of course, that would mean that you'll have a dark lens when seen from the outside, with a bright red band around the perimeter.
I wouldn't expect that bond to hold up over time. I wouldn't expect the lens to fall off, but as the adhesive pulls the NiteShade off of the lens in some spots along the glue joint, you will get moisture penetration inside the lens.
It's a good idea in theory, but it has its drawbacks...
#31
Originally Posted by mkoenig
I have never used NiteShades, so I can't comment about its durability. As a model builder, I can attest that the Testor's paint you show in the link works beautifully when applied to display model, which will never see excessive handling/wear/exposure to the elements. I would think that you won't get any durability out of a model paint when applied to the exterior of a vehicle.
#32
well i just nightshaded my rear taillights and thay came out very well other than my 3rd light.
It was a good idea to put the can in hot water to get a higher valocity outof the can.
i did my 3rd breaklight when the can was slightly cold and then did my taillights after i warmed them up and my taillights came out very glossy they almost look like they were painted with the same paint as my truck.
and for the 3rd light it came out dull as hell.
I just might redo it.
And for who ever came up with the idea to warm the can up in water THANX!
It was a good idea to put the can in hot water to get a higher valocity outof the can.
i did my 3rd breaklight when the can was slightly cold and then did my taillights after i warmed them up and my taillights came out very glossy they almost look like they were painted with the same paint as my truck.
and for the 3rd light it came out dull as hell.
I just might redo it.
And for who ever came up with the idea to warm the can up in water THANX!
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