Tell me about it. I got a little progress. The new radiator is installed waiting for the e fan.

 

Same rad from the donor truck?

I've seen several builds with it mounted in the bed. is it because of benefit's of the air cooling and such, or is there no room in the engine bay?

 

Yes, the explorers radiator is twice as thick. There's a few purposes to it. It keeps it up out of the mud, away from rocks, more room in engine bay, better cooling, and it just looks badass!

 

Not much to update. The guy from the machine shop didn't answer at all yesterday. I got a hold of him today, he tells me he has the pistons. Great you better have a lot more then that for $350. Then he tells me he got messed up from the holiday and it will be ready by Tuesday at the latest. All he's doing is the machine work, freeze plugs, cam bearings, and ordering the piston kit, I'm doing everything else...

I got my bolt kit in from summit today. It came with every bolt I need for the whole block for $170 not bad. So now I have everything to rebuild this engine, except for the block. Awesome.

 

I will somewhat agree with you. It doesnt cool better however. Also how do you plan to run coolant back there? I really need to convert my hoses to tubes along the frame rail. It just keeps getting way to hot. I cant drive 10 minutes down the highway without the temps reaching 210.

 

Makes sense not as much air flow. I'm going to use copper piping for most of it. Are you using a stock water pump?

 

Block back yet?

 

Nope. I called him Tuesday he had just bored it and was getting the crank ready to turn down. Thursday he says now. This is really hurting my deadline. I was warned he takes awhile, but the way he was talking, he was very convincing he'd have it done in no time.

 

damn that stinks. Its limiting your time down to make it to that bog you wanted to go to

 

Can't rush perfection right?

 

Oh no, I'm not rushing the work, I'm rushing him to start the damn work lol

 

Its supposed to be a high flow water pump, not really sure to what degree though.

Copper pipe! that wont be cheap

 

I'm going to use the stock one to see how it will work, but I plan on buying one from Flowkooler.

I just ripped out most most of the base board heating in my parents house. There is some pretty good size copper in the basement I think might work.

 

Just got off the phone with the machine shop, he said it will be done by 2 this afternoon! Stay tuned a lot of progress is about to happen.

 

Sounds like your weekend is about to be busy. Are they doing anything special, or just a clean up/resurface?

 

Lol that's what I'm hoping for. Sat is my brothers birthday so I will see. They bored it .030 over.

 

I'd use aluminum tubing and silicone hoses/bends/connectors

 

What would dissipate the heat better? Copper or aluminum. Copper cools water better and its stronger.

 

Well did you get the engine back?

 

Ha oh ya sorry! Yes its finally back! Hopefully painting it tomorrow with the heads. Ill get some pictures tomorrow.

 

I got the block painted today so it can dry over night. Assembly starts tomorrow.

 

Glancing back through the thread it appears that this is your first rebuild ?

If I am correct and I did not reread all of the post, but things to watch:
-End gap on rings, each rings needs to be placed in the upper section of the cyclones and the end gap measured, keep the gaps to the low side of the tolerance. Gp filing and clean up needs to be done out of the block and then re fit and re measure back in the block.
-make sure to place the end gaps on opposite sides of the pistons, staggering each one.

Did you have the crank turned and who purchased the bearings ?
The machine shop that does the machining should get the parts to match the machined block and crank. You can get them but you need to check and recheck all of the parts for size and in turn for tolerances.
Cylinder size vs piston and ring size.
Ring end gap as mentioned above.
Crank journal size vs bearing size and don't just take the package stated size. You need to assembly all of the mains with the bearing in place but no crank, the same for the rods, and measure the ID of the bearings, then measure the crank journals and find the difference and determine if it is within tolerance.
And then there is finding max travel for the piston, top dead center on each piston, after assembling the crank, rods and block, find out if there is enough room for the valves when the engine is running, especially in the higher rpm ranges while running the mud.

Sorry to mention this stuff if it has been mentioned before but just check everything it is important for an engine that is expected to run a long dependable and yet powerful life. A bearing that has too much or even not enough clearance will burn up a crank. Ring end gaps that are too big will allow,what is clued the Black Death or blow by and will rob some of the power from the motor.

Good luck on the engine build, it is very gratifying when the engine fires up and runs well.
I only mention this stuff because of my own first engine rebuild.

 

Yes it is. Thank you for all the information its helpful! Being my first rebuild, I do have a lot more to learn, but I'm pretty knowledgeable in this stuff so i have a good direction. The cranks been turned and polished. I had to go .010 under on the mains. The machine shop ordered all the internals, so everything should be good there. Ill still messure my tolerances like you mentioned to be safe.

I'm definitely looking forward to the day I go to start it. Im getting excited about it already! Im planning on opening my own shop, where I do these kinds of builds. I want to go into the direction of fabrication and performance stuff. My ranger has been my lab rat.

 

Good go on the machine buying the parts, that way they get the right stuff, hopefully !

Take your time, measure, measure and clean, clean, clean, should be a nice ride when done.

ltr

 

Well I should have gotten a lot done today, but this stopped me.




That's supposed to sit flush and no matter what I do I can get it down. When I put the crank in and tighten it down, it doesn't suck it in and binds the crank. Any idea if you can order just the thrust bearing?