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  #101  
Old 09-14-2013
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Originally Posted by 05edge View Post
Well I should have gotten a lot done today, but this stopped me.



That's supposed to sit flush and no matter what I do I can get it down. When I put the crank in and tighten it down, it doesn't suck it in and binds the crank. Any idea if you can order just the thrust bearing?
You need to contract the machine shop, they may have ordered the wrong main bearing kit.

To me it is WRONG !

Make sure to check the fit of the Rod Bearings too !

One more thing, clean up the main cap/block mating surfaces, just to be sure the caps are fitting the way they should. A thousandth or two might do some damage.

Get it checked out before proceeding AND if it was me and I had tightened them enough to jam the crank… I wouldn’t reuse them, have the machine shop get a new complete set and make sure they fit.

Last edited by Scrambler82; 09-14-2013 at 05:25 PM.
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  #102  
Old 09-14-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrambler82 View Post
You need to contract the machine shop, they may have ordered the wrong main bearing kit.

To me it is WRONG !

Make sure to check the fit of the Rod Bearings too !

One more thing, clean up the main cap/block mating surfaces, just to be sure the caps are fitting the way they should. A thousandth or two might do some damage.

Get it checked out before proceeding AND if it was me and I had tightened them enough to jam the crank… I wouldn’t reuse them, have the machine shop get a new complete set and make sure they fit.
I will be calling them on Monday and demand them to make it right. All the mains fit great I don't understand why the thrust doent. Ill check the rod bearings too good idea! Ill make sure everything is extra clean
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  #103  
Old 09-16-2013
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So hows the swap goin? did the shop fix there F up?
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  #104  
Old 09-16-2013
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Ya they ordered new bearings for me at no charge. I started attaching the new pistons to the rods today. The heads are all painted and ready for assembly tomorrow. As of right now, I don't think ill be making my deadline.
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  #105  
Old 09-17-2013
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Keep your head up! You might. Looks good thus far! Sucks about the bearings. When my 5.4 was getting done the machine shop took forever.
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  #106  
Old 09-17-2013
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Thanks I'm trying my best haha. Some more bad news. My friend cracked a piston trying to press the wrist pin in. Stupid mistake but whatever, s*** happens. He's going to split the cost of a new set so ill have 7 backups. Ill get there!
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  #107  
Old 09-17-2013
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yeah you are going to run into all kinds of snags with projects like this! you will get it done.
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  #108  
Old 09-18-2013
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I planned on having some issues but not this soon haha. So as I was assembling the heads last night, my brother tells me his fiance' s uncle gave him brand new comp cam roller rockers for his mustang, and he said he probably won't use them and i could have them. So he's bringing them by today so i can see how big they are.
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  #109  
Old 09-18-2013
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Measure the new pistons before using.

Don't put the heads on until you get the cam in and find top dead center on numerous one piston.

Also, what ratio are the roller rockers ? If you use a higher ratio than the cam calls for you are actually increasing the lift of the cam and in turn the valves are opening up more inside of the cylinder... in turn you may need to check the valve to piston clearance. don't want the valve to hit the piston when you rev her up.

Once you get the new bearing, put them on and put the caps on without the crank in place, torque them to spec and measure the ID in two or three locations for each bearing, make sure the crank is smaller based on what ever tolerance you are using.

After the bearings are meaasured and the crank is in place make sure it s pins freely no snags before adding the rods and pistons.

Not to get you neverous but double check the crank journal where the bearing screwed up and make sure it spins free.

Luck on the rest of the build, I hope all goes well.

Ltr
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  #110  
Old 09-18-2013
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Thanks Scrambler for all your help so far! I really appreciate it! As for the ratio, I'm not sure yet he forgot them at work. Trick Flow recommends a 1.6 for my cam and most people use 1.7, so I should be fine. Either way ill check the PVC to make sure.
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  #111  
Old 09-19-2013
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Questions on shimming the valve springs. The target spring hight is 1.775", how close to that should I get? Can you stack the shims? And after shimming, do you measure from the top of the spring to the bottom of the spring or the bottom of the shim? The diagram that came with it shows measuring to the bottom of the shim, but that's not the actual spring hight.
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  #112  
Old 09-19-2013
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So I did some research and it looks like if you dont have spring cups you shouldn't stack them. I do not have the cups. My farthest off spring with the thickest shim is .039" longer then 1.775" I should be fine right? 1.775" is the recommended target hight.

A little update, crank and pistons are in and torqued down. Heads are pretty much ready to go on.

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Last edited by 05edge; 09-19-2013 at 11:15 PM.
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  #113  
Old 09-20-2013
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As long as all the springs fall within the two ends of the spec then they should be ok if not you need to either shim or get different springs.
That would be if you wanted to get the full power from the engine and worried that one valve was opening slower than the others AND. That the springs are to binding.

Actually, did you buy a kit with the spring in it ?
If so, then they should be ok as is.
I think I would concentrate on the valve to piston clearance.
Did the pistons install instructions state they would clear a certain lift...
If not talk to the manufacturer for their specs; mention the cam specs and the rpm range you will be using. Things start to stretch as the rpms go up.
Also, mention the new rocker arm ratio if you are using the roller rockers from the friend, they will change the lift.

The engine is looking good, I always enjoy them assembly process and the engine coming together.

Last edited by Scrambler82; 09-20-2013 at 06:39 AM.
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  #114  
Old 09-21-2013
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there was only a target height. they didnt give a tolerance to stay in between. I did buy a spring kit, but separate from the cam. I did a lot of research and went with the same set up as a lot of mustang guys so i know everything should work fine. The specs for the cam are with 1.6 rr so with my 1.5 i have even less lift.

thank you, its coming along. I love taking a bunch of parts, assembling them all together and have it work so precisely.

Last edited by 05edge; 09-21-2013 at 10:38 PM.
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  #115  
Old 09-22-2013
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Why 1.5 rockers, to me you are defeating the cam you purchased ?
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  #116  
Old 09-22-2013
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New 1.7 rr $350, push rods $50, valves $100, spring kit $170, machine work $300, cam $200. Almost $1200 or I could go get brand new trick flow top end kit for $1400.

Now this is what I spent; $50 rods, $170 spring kt, $200 cam. $420. $750ish with new rr. I'm not keeping these heads so I don't want to spend a bunch of money on them. I put my time in the research. Every decision iv gone with iv looked into. II'll see more gains with the cam and 1.5 rr then if I just switched to 1.7 rr and stock cam. The cam and exhaust manifolds are the 2 most restrictive parts to this engine. Changing only those 2 things will give me the most "bang for my buck".
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  #117  
Old 09-22-2013
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Originally Posted by 05edge View Post
I'll see more gains with the cam and 1.5 rr then if I just switched to 1.7 rr and stock cam. The cam and exhaust manifolds are the 2 most restrictive parts to this engine. Changing only those 2 things will give me the most "bang for my buck".
True... But what does the cam call for a rocker ratio ?

Running the recommended ratio will allow the cam to work.

Yu have to remember that an internal combustion engine is nothing more than a large air pump, more in equals more out as long as everything's working together.

Good luck io the engine, sounds good and should run great.

Are you getting it dyno'd once built; it would be good to see what it actually puts out for HP and Torque ?
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  #118  
Old 10-16-2013
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A little update. This build got put in the backseat for a bit. I finally found some land iv been working on buying. I think we finally came up with an agreement price, now I need to see if its possible to convert the land to commercial.

As for the engine, its just about done. All I need is headers and all the small stuff like plugs and wires.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrambler82 View Post
True... But what does the cam call for a rocker ratio ?

Running the recommended ratio will allow the cam to work.

Yu have to remember that an internal combustion engine is nothing more than a large air pump, more in equals more out as long as everything's working together.

Good luck io the engine, sounds good and should run great.

Are you getting it dyno'd once built; it would be good to see what it actually puts out for HP and Torque ?
The cam calls for 1.6rr. I agree that I won't be getting the full potential of the cam, but that's fine. Its still better then stock and when I change out the heads ill already have the cam.

I won't be putting it on a dyno. Not with this setup anyways. Ill dyno it when I start making some real power.
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  #119  
Old 05-17-2015
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Whats up everyone? Its been a long time since iv been on here. Long story short i bought a garage last spring at auction, spent last year getting it open and now im my own boss!

Iv been slowly working on the ranger. The 4.0l is out and already in a customers truck. The 306 is in and this is where i ran into a little problem.. I got the tranny/t-case bolted in and now the engine wont turn over. It looks like the flex plate rubs on the engine/tranny shield. Does anyone know if theres supposed to be a spacer in there? Its been so long i cant remember and i havent been able to find any info online.

This is what confuses me. The flex plate bolts to the crank. With the torque convertor bolted to the flex plate without the trany in the engine will turn over fine. But as soon as you bolt the tranny in it locks up. Any ideas?
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  #120  
Old 07-30-2015
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Another update

to ANYONE who is thinking about doing the Explorer 5.0 swap into a 04 and up Ranger, rethink it. In 2004 Ford redesigned the wiring harnesses so there is no unpin and repin to make PATS work that Im aware of. You will have to rip out every harness from the headlights back to make it work. You will also have to cut a bigger hole in the firewall for the main harness plugs. And since the Explorer has more options like rear windows/locks, rear defroster and wiper there is extra plugs you don't need that will confuse you. Its not very difficult just time consuming. Also you will have to make your own fuel line because the Explorer and Ranger have different connection fittings.

These are the few issues iv ran into so far. Expect more updates soon, Im doing a big push to get this swap done finally!
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  #121  
Old 07-30-2015
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A few pictures
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05edge's V8 swap-20150729_123113.jpg   05edge's V8 swap-20150729_135242.jpg   05edge's V8 swap-20150729_140440.jpg   05edge's V8 swap-20150729_160402.jpg  
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  #122  
Old 07-31-2015
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I don't miss having my truck ripped apart like that at all. Very glad to be on the downhill end of my build. It's all worth it though.
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  #123  
Old 07-31-2015
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That does not look fun. Can't wait to see how it turns out.
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  #124  
Old 08-02-2015
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Okay so in your opinion. Would it be easier to get an 00-03 ranger with a blown motor and do the swap and then swap the body pannels and interior from my 04? Since the day I bought my truck I wanted it to be a fun v8 swapped street truck. But 2 problems. 1, it's an Edge model so it's T-bars not coils and 2, it's an 04.
My problem is that I love the 04+ front end and the interior on my truck and have some stuff that's harder to find on Rangers. What's your opinion?
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  #125  
Old 08-08-2015
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In my opinion if you already have the truck and love it then keep it. I'm not saying it's an impossible swap by any means, it's just not as simple. All 98+ 4x4 Rangers are torsion bar front ends so going to one that's not an Edge won't make a difference. And a complete doner Explorer is a must.

Another issue that you will run into is the abs module has a different plug. I took mine out so it wasn't a problem for me but your going to need the one from the Explorer. Also I never mentioned it but since your swapping the entire dashboard harness you will need the gauge cluster from the Explorer as well.

My fuel connections came in the other day this is what you will need to make 5.0 fuel rail work with the Rangers fuel line
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