08' ranger SAS build up - Page 2 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #26  
Old 12-17-2009
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Originally Posted by slammer67 View Post
hey, nice project, good luck with the build, it's cool to see someone who's not afraid to cut up a new truck.
a couple things, I think those "nicks" on the planetary gears are normal, cause the two cases I have seen are the same. and that vac switch is the 4x4 indicator switch. from the pics, that case looks pretty good.
thanks! thats good to hear, because everything else looks great except for the pump housing. it seems the pump has been chafing against the wall of the case and has worn its way down a little, ill take the case to work and weld up the groove and build up the pump housing then file it back to the way it should be
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08' ranger SAS build up-008.jpg   08' ranger SAS build up-009.jpg   08' ranger SAS build up-010.jpg   08' ranger SAS build up-011.jpg  
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  #27  
Old 12-17-2009
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how large you plan on goin with the sas?
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  #28  
Old 12-17-2009
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Originally Posted by 08rangerdan View Post
not looking for alot more height but just enough to make it a bit more aggressive, and i will leaf the front unless i find a good coil setup
maybe 6-7 inch lift from stock, no body lift and clear a 37" tire with 5.13's for gearing
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  #29  
Old 12-17-2009
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ill be replacing quite a bit of things on this case, alot of it is small components but i figure with as much time as im putting into this case i want it to be in perfect working order.

parts ill replace in my full restore will be:

main case bolts 15 pieces @ $7.29 a piece -$109.35
main seals 3 pieces @ $10.02 a piece -$30.06
main shaft bushing 1 piece @ $7.80 a piece -$7.80
needle bearing 1 piece @ $9.63 a piece -$9.63
needle bearing 1 piece @ $11.10 a piece -$11.10
vss plug 1 piece @ $15.37 a piece -$15.37
ball bearing 1 piece @ $52.78 a piece -$52.78
ball bearing 1 piece @ $19.88 a piece -$19.88
outdrive seals 2 pieces @ $4.89 a piece -$9.78
outdrive washers 2 pieces @ $10.35 a piece -$20.70
outdrive nuts 2 pieces @ $18.80 a piece -$37.60
drain plugs 2 pieces @ $2.78 a piece -$5.56

the old parts..
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  #30  
Old 12-17-2009
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Originally Posted by 08rangerdan View Post
the output nut is a 30mm socket but nothing i had would fit, i ended up taking the case in to ford and they poped it off for me easy as pie. the bearing behind it is pressed in, a few good evenly aplied taps is enough to free it though. but use a puller if you have one.
Yeah...I used a 32 for the rear output nut...but no way in the hell is that gonna work on that front output. Thanks for the idea of going to ford. I'll do that.


DUDE! WTF!?!?!?? You're spending how much on new bolts???? Why?

Oh...and the Ford parts book/program lists a block off plate for that speedometer cable/sensor. I'm either going to get that or use the soft plug I've got already to plug that hole up. You do know that 01+ Ranger speed sensors are in the transmission right? Just lettin' ya know.
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  #31  
Old 12-17-2009
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the nuts are defeniatly a 30mm socket, try it first if you have one. i think the problem of clearance had something to do with all the corrosion collected in the flage. the mechanic really had to hit that socket down in there to get in on the nut and break through the walls of rust. still a tight fit but he used an ordinary socket...

i know the bolts are rediculous but i want new hardware so ill bite the bullet there,

but im going to try and salvage the rusty old hardware,

ill soak the bolts in a heavy chemical solution which will remove all coatings & corosion and then ill see how much it costs to get my bolts re coated with the yellow chromate plating that was on them

would it be ok to use stainless hardware for this use maybe?

for my ranger being 2wd the vss is located just in the rear axle. on the 4x4 they also have one in the trans, 'like you said', either on the t case (old) or transmission (new), this means that when you are in 2wd speedo reads fine, 4hi ok, 4lo ok. the 2 sensors work together to read and process the difference in the change of gearing when in 4 lo to give you a proper speedometor reading in that gear. in my case i only have the one sensor in the axle, so 2wd reads fine, 4hi works ok and when im in 4 lo the gearing changes and my speedometer will get thrown out of wack. i believe the ratios increase the speedo reading by 25-30mph while in lo. for me thats not important, if im in 4 lo then ill just be someplace muddy and i'll be having so much fun i wont even notice my speedometer lol.

P-24419 is the new ford part number for the vss dummy plug that bolts right into the existing location, it used to be F2UZ-7H183-A

Last edited by 08rangerdan; 12-17-2009 at 11:07 PM.
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  #32  
Old 12-17-2009
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my job for tomorrow, when the boss isnt looking.. will be to blast the front outdrive, and reshape & blast the bent up dust cover plate. then ill be dipping those in the black oxide like the rear flange for style points. after that ill TIG weld up the case and pump problem and grind it down and finish the parts back to their original design. sandblasting of whats left of the case will be left for monday

Last edited by 08rangerdan; 12-17-2009 at 10:20 PM.
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  #33  
Old 12-19-2009
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That's weird on the pump wear.I've seen inside 3 rbv cases and in all, you can barely tell where the pump hits the side.
I'd definitely replace that pump, I wouldn't replace the case bolts, but that's your call - the case is alum, so you cant over torque the bolts to stretch without stripping the threads, but new bolts would be peace of mind I admit.

I got all my parts for mine from drivetrain.com they have a complete rebuild kit as well as several bw 1350/1354 parts.

the 30mm socket - I guess I was just lucky that i had one that fit - it was kind of a cheap socket with a thin wall, you could get one from harbor freight or somewhere and if it don't fit, then grind down the outside until it does.
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  #34  
Old 12-19-2009
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I'll post pics of what I did when I'm back on Sunday but i got quite a bit completed Friday, I welded up the pump assembly and decided to leave some extra meat on the part instead of grinding it all down, so it should be stronger then stock. I didn't weld the case however, to properly weld the damage I would need to grind out the cavity that was created by the pertruding burr on the pump. This would have caused a bigger mess then what I started with, and I would probably put am excessive amount of heat in the metal,, not good for many reasons. I also went and sandblasted the case on Friday since it was a slow day, and then near the end of the day I machined a 16mm/1.5 (fine) threaded plug for the 4x4 light switch.
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  #35  
Old 12-19-2009
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I just got back from ford in cambridge Ontario and I asked them about my hardware issue. It turns out for under 8 dollars I can get myself all 15 of the bolts I need lol. The parts guy in London said they were $8 a piece! That's a much better price
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  #36  
Old 12-19-2009
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What are you doing for your transmission? Planning on trying find one or are you gonna replace the output shaft? I am in the same boat as you but I am just going to convert my 3.0 to 4x4 and I have a manual transmission and I've never been able to find a manual 3.0 4x4 because the 3.0 4x4 is already a hard find never mind a manual trani. But I'm going to be replacing output shaft, tail housing, ect.. Also I only have 60 000 km's on my truck so I'd rather not swap it out with a unknown trani that has 200000+ km's on it.
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  #37  
Old 12-19-2009
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I plan on swaping output shafts and adding an ext housing, t case and a 4x4 driveshaft. I'll also need a 4x4 oil pan and filter for the trans. An auto 4x4 A4LD, 5R55E, or 5R44E should make a good donor for the trans parts I need. There is lots of options for the rear drive shaft but whatever I find and I like I'll take. I'll get my trans shop to switch the shaft because I need The work done fast as this is my dd. I'll also have everything I need to complete the driveline at that time of the swap, so the trans place can just install the t case at that time and install the d shaft to my rear axle so I can be driving by the end of a day. Then I'll be moving on to the suspension.

Last edited by 08rangerdan; 12-21-2009 at 12:35 AM.
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  #38  
Old 12-19-2009
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Originally Posted by 99ranger4x4 View Post
Ballsy man.. good luck
x2!!

brave soul tackling an 08!! im sure ittl turn out just fine!! keep us posted!
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  #39  
Old 12-19-2009
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Looks like a great project! Good luck!
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  #40  
Old 12-20-2009
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sandy clean case, custom plug, and pump fix, pics..


now time to get some parts in and assemble

>is there anything particular i should grease or put oil on when being assembled? bearings and shafts?
>is there anything i should use for the instal of new seals?
>or any other trade secrets i should do to properly put it back together?

i plan on putting the parts in and filling its belly with oil and thats all, but i might pick up a bottle of oil just to dip and lube the bearings shafts and bushings in before i install them, if thats ok to do..
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08' ranger SAS build up-001.jpg   08' ranger SAS build up-002.jpg   08' ranger SAS build up-003.jpg   08' ranger SAS build up-004.jpg  

Last edited by 08rangerdan; 12-21-2009 at 12:39 AM.
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  #41  
Old 12-21-2009
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i just sprayed all exposed aluminum with a coat of clear coat to prevent oxidization of the aluminum, probably not necesary, but it should keep it looking good for a while longer then if nothing was on it.
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  #42  
Old 12-21-2009
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that the cleanest looking 1354 I've ever seen - looks like brand new.
I would lube all the bearings and shafts when you assemble - with atf, I have also used assembly lube before

Lets get that puppy together, I'm waiting to see some pics of the front suspension torched off.
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  #43  
Old 12-21-2009
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looks great! so uh, going to tackle mine when your done this? haha
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  #44  
Old 12-21-2009
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thanks lol

i really want to jump right into everything but i really want to do it right at the same time. all the little TLC im going to be putting into this build will hopefull keep me satisified with it once its completed. but first i gotta make some more progress with the case and then ill be picking up an axle. i have my eyes on a dana 44 from a full size bronco. the guy who has it, had it on his jeep, he upgraded to a dana 60 so i expect it to be in good working order and maybe has some extras i dont know about. after that builds up, then i can think into the unknowns of the suspension..

im starting to wonder about linkages though..

for anyone who has done a manual t case swap;

>what linkage and accesories did you use to get the thing working through the floor?

i dont want to overly modify the cab floor as much as possible. i want it to be in the standard stock 4x4 location. is it as easy as just knocking out a floor pan insert or swapping floor pans inserts, and then bolting up a ranger linkage in there? i know there is a knockout on the driverside trans hump, is that the location i would route my linkage? if someone can post pictures of what the interior and underbody looks like with a shifter installed for reference, this would really help me picture what needs to be done.

Last edited by 08rangerdan; 12-21-2009 at 05:20 PM.
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  #45  
Old 12-23-2009
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i got my rebuild kit in today from Mr. Transmission and started putting parts in, its a pretty decent kit for the money and comes with everything you could need for $100. just take time with pressing the needle bearings back in and you wont need to order more lol. again i slightly damaged that bearing in the bottom of the input spline while pressing it in. i should have known better but ill go to ford and pick up another, it was getting very tight at the bottom of the bore so i added a little more pressure and it cracked the bearing case. i really didnt expect the bearing to be so brittle. but for now i just installed the main case bearings until i can get some silicone gasket sealant and another bearing. ill also order any fittings, hardware and other specific things i need at ford
Attached Thumbnails
08' ranger SAS build up-001.jpg   08' ranger SAS build up-002.jpg   08' ranger SAS build up-003.jpg   08' ranger SAS build up-006.jpg   08' ranger SAS build up-007.jpg  


Last edited by 08rangerdan; 12-24-2009 at 01:50 PM.
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  #46  
Old 12-24-2009
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I'm not sure on how universal some of the linkages are for the BW's, But for my 4406 Its from a manual T-case f-150 99-03'ish. So maybe that can bolt to the 1354, they are much easier to find.
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  #47  
Old 12-24-2009
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i just finished installing the seals and put on a new set of brass drain plugs because of how much i hate rust and corrosion lol. went to ford after work and ordered the bearing i screwed up, vss plug and some other stuff i need to complete. should be together soon.. i picked up some Mobile 'Super' ATF D/M fluid. its reccomended for ford applications but for the t case i done believe it matters what you use..
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  #48  
Old 12-24-2009
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Originally Posted by INT3RC3PTOR View Post
I'm not sure on how universal some of the linkages are for the BW's, But for my 4406 Its from a manual T-case f-150 99-03'ish. So maybe that can bolt to the 1354, they are much easier to find.
i wouldnt have a clue about the f150 components but i doubt its a simple switch for me, ill try to stay with the ranger shifter if i can find one. to buy one new might be the best option, i believe they are about $100 new for the raw shifter mech. the trim and boots could be used from any vehicle and just trimmed to fit
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  #49  
Old 12-29-2009
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I just got back from ford in cambridge Ontario and I asked them about my hardware issue. It turns out for under 8 dollars I can get myself all 15 of the bolts I need lol. The parts guy in London said they were $8 a piece! That's a much better price
back in london ford still argues with me about the bolts at $8 a piece and its to much labour to salvage what i have. I finially came across a place to get my harware issues resolved. i should have known 'Facca Fasteners' here in london would have everything i would need. i got my 15 case bolts for $13.00 and 2 large, fine threaded nuts for the output flanges for $5. i had to modify the nuts because Facca didnt have a shorter 'jam-nut' style, required for the short thread on the shaft. i took them into work and turned them down to size.. im just awaiting on fords vss plug and new needle bearing
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  #50  
Old 12-30-2009
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i always liked reading the details on buildups. thats what made my decision to start this. i like to know all the little issues that you can and will run into while it progresses, then you can learn from my mistakes lol. ..

i just picked up the extension housing this morning, i hope its the right one.. the yard had no ranger transmissions on the shelf so i went with a 94-95? explorer housing. as far as i have seen, and read, its the same as the others..

i didnt know about the mechanisim on the back of the housing, (tranny side) it engages the output shaft and i assume its the parking pin/prawl. the guy wanted $150 for the housing but that was to much for my taste and we subtled with $75 + tax oh well..

i know the t case side is correct, but ill save the old gaskets and compare the tranny side from a 5r44e and make sure its bolts up, unless someone can tell me if it does or not...
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08' ranger SAS build up-004.jpg   08' ranger SAS build up-005.jpg   08' ranger SAS build up-008.jpg   08' ranger SAS build up-dsc00761.jpg  

Last edited by 08rangerdan; 12-30-2009 at 01:12 PM.
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