32v DOHC 4.6 project
#26
Finished the exhaust for the car, its bolted up to the sohc as of right now... I have to admit, it sounds pretty damn good! I havent taken pictures or videos of it yet... Still no sign of the motor, but I ended up going with Kooks headers, march underdrive pulleys, and I just picked up some cams for it! My progressive rate springs came in for the car today, going to order the addco sway bar kit for it soon enough and get some poly bushings for the control arms... Ill have some pix of all of this when I feel like i have made enough progress...
Edit: Oh yea, I also bolted in some racing seats and ordered a center console... I cant decide if I wanna use the ratchet shifter out of the ranger or not...
Edit: Oh yea, I also bolted in some racing seats and ordered a center console... I cant decide if I wanna use the ratchet shifter out of the ranger or not...
#27
Got some goodies in, lsd, zex, all poly bushings for the control arms, waitin on a 255lph fuel pump... installed the zex kit, but im not going to hook it up to the 2v 4.6 because i dont wanna risk blowing it when i already have it sold... ill get some pix asap
edit: kooks doesnt wanna tell me if they "think" their headers for the marauder will even work, so im not going with lt headers. maybe later on down the road ill make my own, but not now. we will see.
edit: kooks doesnt wanna tell me if they "think" their headers for the marauder will even work, so im not going with lt headers. maybe later on down the road ill make my own, but not now. we will see.
#29
got this email just a few minutes ago:
your good everything you asked for is there , i striped out the dash to get al the wiiring out yestereday and the weather down here went south but your getting everything . im waiting on 2 pallets for the motrs and off they go , it may ship as soon as tomorrow ill inform you of the pro number when it ships . Frank
I got the rear springs under the car last night and the walbro 255lph pump in as well. Hopefully within the next week or two i will have 32valves chattering under the hood of this thing!
your good everything you asked for is there , i striped out the dash to get al the wiiring out yestereday and the weather down here went south but your getting everything . im waiting on 2 pallets for the motrs and off they go , it may ship as soon as tomorrow ill inform you of the pro number when it ships . Frank
I got the rear springs under the car last night and the walbro 255lph pump in as well. Hopefully within the next week or two i will have 32valves chattering under the hood of this thing!
#33
well... after a lonnnnnng wait, this is what i got. The motor and transmission supposedly have 49k miles on it... im thinking more along the lines of 490k miles... im not very happy..
so anyway... im waiting to hear back from the guy i bought it from... in the mean time, i kinda messed up teh differential, so i replaced everything including the carrier. I installed a ford trac lock diff with 4.10 gears. boxed in the control arms and installed energy suspension poly bushings... i didnt finish until about 8am this morning(26 hours i had been up) so i didnt finish with pics... Oh, i got something else installed as well...
what a bunch of weak junk:
so anyway... im waiting to hear back from the guy i bought it from... in the mean time, i kinda messed up teh differential, so i replaced everything including the carrier. I installed a ford trac lock diff with 4.10 gears. boxed in the control arms and installed energy suspension poly bushings... i didnt finish until about 8am this morning(26 hours i had been up) so i didnt finish with pics... Oh, i got something else installed as well...
what a bunch of weak junk:
#38
too late now, why wouldnt you recommend that? the car drives 100 percent better now!! I really do wanna hear your thoughts on the bushings though.
#39
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the geometry of the splayed 4link in your car is very similar to the fox mustang setup, just longer arms and wider mounting points.
the upper arms in the splayed 4link are responsible for both lateral location of the axle and controlling axle rotation. dual duty parts create bind situations in certain suspension cycles. when a splayed 4link goes into a roll situation(one wheel up, the other down) the geometry forces the uppers to actually change length. the length change is accomplished thru the softer durometer, factory rubber bushings.
installing poly in the upper arms means the arms will no longer be able to change length to match arc the geometry forces the axle to travel. this results in severe bind and a condition you will not like in hard corners; snap oversteer.
takin into consideration this is a street car, and a large one at that; i know youre not gonna be tryin to maximize your cornering potential thru autoX or road racing, so i would suggest replacing the axle ear bushings with some new FORD rubber bushings. the axle ears take the most twisting/puling force, and therefore are the most logical location to keep the softer durometer bushings. its still a compromise in roll bind, but street cars are all about compromise, right? rubber in the axle ears should allow you enough "give" to avoid snap oversteer in any situation you will encounter on the street.
the upper arms in the splayed 4link are responsible for both lateral location of the axle and controlling axle rotation. dual duty parts create bind situations in certain suspension cycles. when a splayed 4link goes into a roll situation(one wheel up, the other down) the geometry forces the uppers to actually change length. the length change is accomplished thru the softer durometer, factory rubber bushings.
installing poly in the upper arms means the arms will no longer be able to change length to match arc the geometry forces the axle to travel. this results in severe bind and a condition you will not like in hard corners; snap oversteer.
takin into consideration this is a street car, and a large one at that; i know youre not gonna be tryin to maximize your cornering potential thru autoX or road racing, so i would suggest replacing the axle ear bushings with some new FORD rubber bushings. the axle ears take the most twisting/puling force, and therefore are the most logical location to keep the softer durometer bushings. its still a compromise in roll bind, but street cars are all about compromise, right? rubber in the axle ears should allow you enough "give" to avoid snap oversteer in any situation you will encounter on the street.
#40
the geometry of the splayed 4link in your car is very similar to the fox mustang setup, just longer arms and wider mounting points.
the upper arms in the splayed 4link are responsible for both lateral location of the axle and controlling axle rotation. dual duty parts create bind situations in certain suspension cycles. when a splayed 4link goes into a roll situation(one wheel up, the other down) the geometry forces the uppers to actually change length. the length change is accomplished thru the softer durometer, factory rubber bushings.
installing poly in the upper arms means the arms will no longer be able to change length to match arc the geometry forces the axle to travel. this results in severe bind and a condition you will not like in hard corners; snap oversteer.
takin into consideration this is a street car, and a large one at that; i know youre not gonna be tryin to maximize your cornering potential thru autoX or road racing, so i would suggest replacing the axle ear bushings with some new FORD rubber bushings. the axle ears take the most twisting/puling force, and therefore are the most logical location to keep the softer durometer bushings. its still a compromise in roll bind, but street cars are all about compromise, right? rubber in the axle ears should allow you enough "give" to avoid snap oversteer in any situation you will encounter on the street.
the upper arms in the splayed 4link are responsible for both lateral location of the axle and controlling axle rotation. dual duty parts create bind situations in certain suspension cycles. when a splayed 4link goes into a roll situation(one wheel up, the other down) the geometry forces the uppers to actually change length. the length change is accomplished thru the softer durometer, factory rubber bushings.
installing poly in the upper arms means the arms will no longer be able to change length to match arc the geometry forces the axle to travel. this results in severe bind and a condition you will not like in hard corners; snap oversteer.
takin into consideration this is a street car, and a large one at that; i know youre not gonna be tryin to maximize your cornering potential thru autoX or road racing, so i would suggest replacing the axle ear bushings with some new FORD rubber bushings. the axle ears take the most twisting/puling force, and therefore are the most logical location to keep the softer durometer bushings. its still a compromise in roll bind, but street cars are all about compromise, right? rubber in the axle ears should allow you enough "give" to avoid snap oversteer in any situation you will encounter on the street.
well 10-4. thank you for the input. now i know why the advertise the tubular control arms with poly bushings for mustangs that are for drag only... makes sense.
#41
I finally have had a little spare time to work on my own things again... Finally got the engine back together. I just bought a house, gonna be closing on it in a couple weeks, so i wont be stuffin it in the car just yet. I am going to try to get my truck painted before i move it to my house, just so i have a little less stuff to get damaged(doors, fenders, hood) while moving all the pieces. Anywho, heres what i got:
I will have the oil pan for it tuesday and im still waitin to get my intake back from the powdercoater... Ill keep everyone posted on progress of this and the truck!
I will have the oil pan for it tuesday and im still waitin to get my intake back from the powdercoater... Ill keep everyone posted on progress of this and the truck!
#50