Here is "Thomas, before he got so dusty.
Last time Evan was over, he said "Thomas needs a bath" !!

 

That's awesome! I bet he gets a kick out of that!

 

I will be taking advantage of the 2 fresh air openings in the front. Air filter on the drivers side

Oil cooler will go on the passenger side. The GN has lines for an oil cooler, plumbed off the Side of the oil filter adapter. The oil lines are RIGHT THERE!!

Sooo many pipes!! How will I know where they all go?! ... one at a time ...

 

This is my little buddy Evan.
He is such a sweet little guy!

 

Backed the Ranger out today, to work on a friends car.

Weather looks good for a day or two. Will cover it up now.

 

Love the project

 

Thanks!
Me too!
I have to get some work done, but will be back on the "Grand-Ranger", ( a more socially acceptable name), in a few days.
I would hate to offend anyone out there 🧔

 

First, I need to locate the pivot point for the "link". The aluminum cover has some 5/8" counter bored holes, 1/4" deep. I can use these socket-holes to mount the pivot bracket. The counter bored holes will help handle any side loads. I will be enlarging the bolts from 5/16" to 3/8", drilling and taping the the diff and cover. (Top 3 holes)

Machined 3 steel bushings to fit "snugly" into the cover socket holes. 3/8" hole through the bushing for 3/8" grade 8 high strength bolts to mount pivot. (5/16" bolt shown here), for mocking up.

Bolted the bushings into the 3 top holes And cut and bent some 1/4" x 1" wide cold rolled steel strap to "arc" around the bushings and lay up against the alum cover. Clamped it all together and tac- welded the strap to the bushings. Pre-heated it all with a torch, because I know the alum cover would soak up the heat and make the welds brittel.


Here you can see how the three bushings will extend into the cover. This "engagement" into the cover will take the side force off of the three bolts and spread it out over the entire cover, (and all 10 bolts)

Bolted up for final "fit". I will build up from here to make a pivot mount, just above the center, top bolt. This will be a 5/8" diam Grade 8 bolt for the pivot. I must have a target to "shoot at", before deciding how long and what angle the links will be. The mounts on the frame will be created LAST. Ride height will need to be determined too, before the frame mounts are finalized. THIS GETS MORE COMPLICATED AS I GO !!
I need to determine not only ride height, but suspension travel as well! I am thinking 4" down and 3" up, from static. Then confirm that the links don't bind in the process.
More "tac-and testing" !!


Remember this sketch? This is where I am going with the Watts Link.

 

Here are the parts to make the Watts link. The 1 1/4" steel tubing length is yet to be determined. Tubing will go between the heim joints.
The bracket on the right, is the "drop-down" mount that welds to the right side frame. I taped off the edges for welding, before painting the bracket. (Bracket was sand blasted)
I haven't made the left frame mount bracket just yet. Need to see where it hits, before I decide what it will look like.

 

The air filter showed up today

Fits nicely in the area where the orig battery box was. It will be on top of the inner fender liner, away from the dirt and splash.

 

5/16" bolts to 3/8" Grade 8 studs. Drilled and tapped iron diff to 3/8-16" thread. Tight fit in cover holes. Studs lets me use all available threads in the diff. Solid, (like a fence-post)!

Trimmed the diff cover ribs, to make room for steel strap.

Fully welded strap to bushings. Fit & grinding to get mount to fit tightly on diff /cover ribs. Taps on with plastic hammer. I don't want any movement here.

Nuts up tight, (40 lb), bridge-mount tight against alum cover
Now build up for pivot mount.

 

Center pivot has to be in place, so I have a target to measure to. Next, I will get the truck at ride height and see how my drop down bracket looks on the right frame rail. Maybe a "heavy tack" and make up my first link, (tube with heim joints).

 

Finished and painted pivot mount.

Added a 1/4" support rib to help stabilize the mount from any front to back forces.

Here is a look from the other side of the diff. (Looking back).
Drilled and tapped existing hole to 3/8-16" .

This hole was holding the emergency cable on top of the diff. (Will STILL use it for that, also).

 

Got the links tacked up and in place.
this is all the way down. (Axle down, truck up).

More welding & reinforcing to do.
Need to run it up and down to check angles and check for binding or rubbing, while it's just tacked. This is at ride height.

Still need to work in rear shocks and sway bar. Getting busy back here!

 

Reinforcing the right hand link mount


Second brace on the left side is next

 

Added second brace for left side link mount.

Got some lower shock mounts from Explorer. Swapped out the Ranger lower spring plates. Welded in a cross bar and used a custom upper shock mount.
will be removing the factory shock mounts from frame.

Had some KYB shocks that look like they will work out. These lower shock mounts will be blasted and painted, of course. Need to get all the parts "in place" and tested, before final welding and painting is done.
The shocks are mounted in front of the axle, to have the most effective dampening effect on vertical movement and at 16 degrees tilt to increase "roll resistance", during cornering.
Handling is more my concern, than hauling mulch or drag racing. (In keeping with the Lightning truck).
.... Although I did haul a load of mulch in my Lightning! ... one time!! Took me 2 hours to clean it up afterwords ;-/

 

After studying the right mount, I added a vertical rib in the right hand frame rail to prevent any twisting/deforming of the frame rail from the drop down frame mount, having "leverage" on the "C" channel part of the frame. (Maybe over kill), but that is how I roll!

 

Got both shocks mounted. Moved suspension up and down. No binds. Shocks have plenty of travel. Now, take it all apart, clean and paint.

Mini cooper below my truck.
Replacing power window regulator.

 

Mounting the rear sway bar is next, then cleaning the Rear leaf springs and installing some "slippery" nylon strips between the leafs.
This will make the spring action much smoother, thus increasing traction in the rear.
The inherent friction of leaf springs tends to "bind up the rear ", causing wheel spin!
I am freeing up the leafs, so they can work easier, without tight bushings, having to control side to side movement and rubbing together in a " tight pack"!
Traction in corners, as well as in a straight line requires everything to work in a controlled, smooth way. JMO
The rear sway bar was mounted on the Explorer axle. This adds weight to the rear end, called "unsprung-weight".
This weight will make the rear "bounce" when shocked by a bump in the road or hard launch!
Spinnnnnnn!

I don't want that! So the lighter the rear end is, the easier job, the shocks have, in controlling any bouncing.

 

Got back on the Ranger, after finishing some other work.

Shocks, Watts Link, and re-bundling The leaf springs, adding some Nylon strips between them. I had the springs assembled incorrectly. After looking at some MOPAR, drag springs, I realized that they needed to be assembled differently. This actually raised the ride height about an inch. ... Just what It needed!
The additional spring was NOT IN PLAY, because I added it on "top".
It is now in the middle of the pack.

Finally welded the spring perches and torque arm mounts. Painted all the bits, peaces and rear end housing. Feels good to start "wrapping some things up, for a change.

 

Mounted the sway bar on the rear end, against my origional idea. The back area has gotton so "busy", there is just not another good option. (Unless I get a custom bar.)
I used the "lightest brackets " I could, to keep the added weight to a minimum.

Making sure the friction is kept to a minimum, so the rear suspension is free to move as needed.
I still need to make some mount bushings for the sway bar-links, where they meet the frame

 

I'm loving the progress on this thing! Truck is looking good!

 

Thanks!!
Should this thread be in the project area?
.. just asking, cause it is getting kind of long.
If you can or want to move it, ... it is fine/ me

I was thinking of starting a "part 2", so people would not have to scroll down so much.

 

I never even noticed it was in member introductions. Haha. I went ahead and moved it to project logs for you. Part 2 is up to you, but I personally don't mind scrolling.

 

I end up reading, (scanning thru almost every time), usually finding spelling or grammar mistakes along the way! 😊
thanks for the props!
now ... let me find my new location!