Ford Rules Extended Radius Arm Build - Page 3 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Project Logs For detailed builds specific to the Ford Ranger, one thread per vehicle please.

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  #51  
Old 07-30-2009
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Originally Posted by ford rules View Post
It "works" but not the greatest angles for the steering it does have a little bumpsteer but not to bad i want to get some 3/4" heims and make my own trac bar to get the angles a little closer
If you've got the room, you could run a tube from the frame where your trac-bar mounts across to the other frame rail to help stiffen it up.

While it's torn apart, cut off your frame side trac-bar mount and plate the frame around the mount. When I tore my truck down, where I had the leaf spring hangers welded onto the frame, the frame had started to crack (not the weld or the hanger, the frame itself)
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  #52  
Old 07-30-2009
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Originally Posted by 034x4 View Post
If you've got the room, you could run a tube from the frame where your trac-bar mounts across to the other frame rail to help stiffen it up.

While it's torn apart, cut off your frame side trac-bar mount and plate the frame around the mount. When I tore my truck down, where I had the leaf spring hangers welded onto the frame, the frame had started to crack (not the weld or the hanger, the frame itself)
I will definatley see if i can add another cross member and i didnt see any cracks when i was looking tonight but i will look again and make sure.
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  #53  
Old 07-31-2009
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I've got a trac bar mount I hope to be burning onto the truck here soon... Do you think 1/4" metal plate is enough or too much? Was thinkin weld the mount to the plate, bolt the plate to the frame then weld it up too......
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  #54  
Old 07-31-2009
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1/4 is plenty ive seen trucks with 3/16 hold up fine its not how thick the metal is its how its gusseted imo.
got my tube i hope i can get the arms turned today.
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  #55  
Old 07-31-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 034x4 View Post
If you've got the room, you could run a tube from the frame where your trac-bar mounts across to the other frame rail to help stiffen it up.

While it's torn apart, cut off your frame side trac-bar mount and plate the frame around the mount. When I tore my truck down, where I had the leaf spring hangers welded onto the frame, the frame had started to crack (not the weld or the hanger, the frame itself)
my shock hoops ripped off the frame, the weld held but the frame tore.. if i ever build another ranger I'm probably gonna tube the front.. the ranger frame blows.
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  #56  
Old 07-31-2009
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I'm sure all pickup trucks frames suck, unless you get into 1ton + trucks, and even then they probably aren't that great!
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  #57  
Old 08-01-2009
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Originally Posted by stRanger View Post
I've got a trac bar mount I hope to be burning onto the truck here soon... Do you think 1/4" metal plate is enough or too much? Was thinkin weld the mount to the plate, bolt the plate to the frame then weld it up too......
If you're going to run bolts through the frame, you need to run a boss through it so when you tighten the bolt it doesn't pull the frame together, and the bolts will eventually loosen.
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  #58  
Old 08-02-2009
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I was gonna run flats, and lock washers along with loc-tite... and the loc-tite is over kill with the lock washers.... Forgot bout the boss part, since the frame is 'boxed' in at that section.
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  #59  
Old 08-02-2009
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heres an update i hope to bolt up the cross member tonight and get the arms done tomorrow.
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  #60  
Old 08-02-2009
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Drill some holes through the tube where the radius arm is in a few places all the way around then weld weld it up there too. just a suggestion
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  #61  
Old 08-02-2009
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yup i will be doing that
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  #62  
Old 08-02-2009
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Originally Posted by stRanger View Post
Forgot bout the boss part, since the frame is 'boxed' in at that section.
That doesn't matter. When you tighten the bolt it will squeeze the two sides of the frame together, and the nut will work its way loose. It doesn't matter how much loc-tite or lock-washers you put on it, the frame will flex/fatigue and the side of the frame will work its way away from the nut.

Especially a trac-bar mount, it will see huge loads at that mount and I'd rather you spend an extra hour or so doing it right, then not worrying about it until you rip the mount off the frame and are driving an un-controllable truck.

Edit: I read "forget", so if you meant that you forgot, then nevermind.

Edit #2: Does the heim on your drag link not bind up at full droop? It looks like it's pretty close in the picture. Since there are no shocks on I can't tell. Looks like it's time for some high-steer arms.
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  #63  
Old 08-02-2009
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Originally Posted by 034x4 View Post
That doesn't matter. When you tighten the bolt it will squeeze the two sides of the frame together, and the nut will work its way loose. It doesn't matter how much loc-tite or lock-washers you put on it, the frame will flex/fatigue and the side of the frame will work its way away from the nut.

Especially a trac-bar mount, it will see huge loads at that mount and I'd rather you spend an extra hour or so doing it right, then not worrying about it until you rip the mount off the frame and are driving an un-controllable truck.

Edit: I read "forget", so if you meant that you forgot, then nevermind.

Edit #2: Does the heim on your drag link not bind up at full droop? It looks like it's pretty close in the picture. Since there are no shocks on I can't tell. Looks like it's time for some high-steer arms.
the axle is dropped out quite a bit in the pics it isnt bad when the weight is on and its on the ground.
ill wait for high steer until i get a 60 then i will do it with the 3 link also
ooh i got the cross member in tonight and also got my holes drilled in the tube for plug welds there will be 6 plug welds on each tube and then the arm will be plated in as well
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  #64  
Old 08-03-2009
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how much did you extend the arms? and how much more travel do you think you are going to pick up with this?
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  #65  
Old 08-03-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 034x4 View Post
That doesn't matter. When you tighten the bolt it will squeeze the two sides of the frame together, and the nut will work its way loose. It doesn't matter how much loc-tite or lock-washers you put on it, the frame will flex/fatigue and the side of the frame will work its way away from the nut.

Especially a trac-bar mount, it will see huge loads at that mount and I'd rather you spend an extra hour or so doing it right, then not worrying about it until you rip the mount off the frame and are driving an un-controllable truck.

Edit: I read "forget", so if you meant that you forgot, then nevermind.

Edit #2: Does the heim on your drag link not bind up at full droop? It looks like it's pretty close in the picture. Since there are no shocks on I can't tell. Looks like it's time for some high-steer arms.

No no, i totally agree with you! I forgot that the front of the frame was boxed and not open C-channel like the rear of the frame, so yea when the frame bends it will all loosen up!!! Do you buy a boss per bolt size, or is it just a piece of pipe or tube?? Might just use 3/16 metal to plate the frame and weld it on, I'm sure I can get a good enough bead on it to hold it on securely
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  #66  
Old 08-03-2009
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Nice progress!
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  #67  
Old 08-03-2009
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Originally Posted by stRanger View Post
No no, i totally agree with you! I forgot that the front of the frame was boxed and not open C-channel like the rear of the frame, so yea when the frame bends it will all loosen up!!! Do you buy a boss per bolt size, or is it just a piece of pipe or tube?? Might just use 3/16 metal to plate the frame and weld it on, I'm sure I can get a good enough bead on it to hold it on securely
I use DOM with an ID close to the size of the bolt you will be using. For example a 1" OD DOM with .25 wall for a 1/2" bolt. Leave it sticking out of the frame about 1/4" per side to weld if mig welding, about 1/8 - 3/16 for tig.
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  #68  
Old 08-03-2009
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Nice progress!
thanks
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  #69  
Old 08-04-2009
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well one arm is done and the other should be done tonight sometime.
The arm is plated with .25 flat stock fully wleded then there are 6 plug welds on the tube extension and that is welded all the ways around on the end. im pretty happy with how it turned out. the extention is 17" long i ground the arm 7" up so the tube slides on the arm 7" and has ten left out.
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  #70  
Old 08-04-2009
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nice.
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  #71  
Old 08-04-2009
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Thanks now i just gotta finish the other side.
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  #72  
Old 08-04-2009
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looks good man
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  #73  
Old 08-04-2009
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Well i got one side on and the coil is in its like 90* outside and humid as chit so im gonna work on it tonight.
I will have to get a lenghtened drive shaft though i let the axle drop and it slid rite apart ooh well
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  #74  
Old 08-04-2009
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looking good!
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  #75  
Old 08-04-2009
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Those look beefy as hell!!

I can't wait to see the extra travel put to work.
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