HighRollerII's SAS Thread

lol ****s gonna look tight!
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 10,073
Likes: 4
From: Charleston, SC
haha should be at your house anyday now -- i dunno when the best time for you to come start of the 4 link -- install the 4 link -- help with steering or 1st drive down the road its like picking straws with job titles on it but we can figure it out 
thanks everybody -- all positive comments so are i was expecting nothing but ranting and raving which im sure ill get but that just makes it better
ive got like 3 packages comming in today friday im ordering the axle and tires
another good thing about ordering a newer axle is all i gotta do is gears, brakes and im good to go im throwing highsteer on it and im set rear just needs calipers and gears woot woot

thanks everybody -- all positive comments so are i was expecting nothing but ranting and raving which im sure ill get but that just makes it better
ive got like 3 packages comming in today friday im ordering the axle and tires
another good thing about ordering a newer axle is all i gotta do is gears, brakes and im good to go im throwing highsteer on it and im set rear just needs calipers and gears woot woot
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 10,073
Likes: 4
From: Charleston, SC
dunno yet ive got a handful im looking at i just need to find something 20x12 or 20x14 in a 8 lugx170mm (newer SD lug pattern)
its just hard to find the ones i like with that width but ill figure that out later i need to get some roll around wheels and tires so i can move those massive axles
its just hard to find the ones i like with that width but ill figure that out later i need to get some roll around wheels and tires so i can move those massive axles
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 10,073
Likes: 4
From: Charleston, SC
keep them full once you go that high it really doesnt make a difference i mean running a 14" wide wheel with like 17" tires they are going to stick out no matter what and the wheel isnt going to fit in the wheel well so it will be iight -- ill drive this on the weekends to cruise and trailer it to shows nothing more
ive already got DOT approved headlights that ill place below the bumper as well as brake lights since ill be over the limit here in South Carolina
keep them full once you go that high it really doesnt make a difference i mean running a 14" wide wheel with like 17" tires they are going to stick out no matter what and the wheel isnt going to fit in the wheel well so it will be iight -- ill drive this on the weekends to cruise and trailer it to shows nothing more
If you remove the drag link (which would have to be a full hydro set-up) you won't be able to drive it on the street because the steering will be WAY to responsive at speed. Unless you're referring to the tie-rod. In which case it would still be un-safe for the road.
If you wheel it (which i don't think you will be) that 60 will explode.
Why not run 47" ltb's? The XML's are stiffer than ****, expecially on a midsize truck.
If you wheel it (which i don't think you will be) that 60 will explode.
Why not run 47" ltb's? The XML's are stiffer than ****, expecially on a midsize truck.
If they were narrowed he wouldn't be able to turn around in a foot-ball field.
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 10,073
Likes: 4
From: Charleston, SC
Jey -- im not going to run a drag link but i will a tie rod im going to make a custom steering set up well attempt -- ive seen it set up on another truck that was a custom show truck it worked on his im going to try do the same set up in a way , i just dont wanna do the normal set up because even when i run high steer the drag link will have a crazy angle resulting in bump steer
ill have hydro assist on the passenger side but thats it
shane ive thought bout running the 22.5 floats but they will be WAY to heavy for my truck i rode on some in a F450 and they were crazy on that i know the xmls will be stiff and rough but its the look i want and still want to run a 20" wheel the biggest wheel the ltbs have are 17s and id like to get a little bigger then that..
ive had parts come in today i got my steering fittings from PSC motorsports and some joints, jam nuts, and weld in ends from ballistics waiting on my steering box to come in also and ordered the front axle today tires will be tomorrow
ill have hydro assist on the passenger side but thats it
shane ive thought bout running the 22.5 floats but they will be WAY to heavy for my truck i rode on some in a F450 and they were crazy on that i know the xmls will be stiff and rough but its the look i want and still want to run a 20" wheel the biggest wheel the ltbs have are 17s and id like to get a little bigger then that..
ive had parts come in today i got my steering fittings from PSC motorsports and some joints, jam nuts, and weld in ends from ballistics waiting on my steering box to come in also and ordered the front axle today tires will be tomorrow
Honestly, all shipping aside, I never realized that these huge tires would be so cheap. Just a quick googling got me here: http://www.stazworks.com/tires.htm
Also, I know those are tall gears, but that is a relatively huge jump in tire size, even form what you have. Are there any taller gear available, or have you decided that is the perfect gear for you?
Also, I know those are tall gears, but that is a relatively huge jump in tire size, even form what you have. Are there any taller gear available, or have you decided that is the perfect gear for you?
PM me about the steering with some links to pics of the set-up.
It sounds ghetto/sketchy/and scary. Definitely not safe for street use. There MUST be a mechanical link b/t the steering wheel and the steering knuckle for it to be safe for street use.
If your going to have a ****ty drag-link angle, just mount a trac-bar with the same ****ty angle to help minimize bump steer. The trac-bar will physically move the axle along an arc that will prevent the drag link from moving the knuckle while the suspension is cycling.
How high exactly will this be? From frame to axle roughly.
It sounds ghetto/sketchy/and scary. Definitely not safe for street use. There MUST be a mechanical link b/t the steering wheel and the steering knuckle for it to be safe for street use.
If your going to have a ****ty drag-link angle, just mount a trac-bar with the same ****ty angle to help minimize bump steer. The trac-bar will physically move the axle along an arc that will prevent the drag link from moving the knuckle while the suspension is cycling.
How high exactly will this be? From frame to axle roughly.
PM me about the steering with some links to pics of the set-up.
It sounds ghetto/sketchy/and scary. Definitely not safe for street use. There MUST be a mechanical link b/t the steering wheel and the steering knuckle for it to be safe for street use.
If your going to have a ****ty drag-link angle, just mount a trac-bar with the same ****ty angle to help minimize bump steer. The trac-bar will physically move the axle along an arc that will prevent the drag link from moving the knuckle while the suspension is cycling.
How high exactly will this be? From frame to axle roughly.
It sounds ghetto/sketchy/and scary. Definitely not safe for street use. There MUST be a mechanical link b/t the steering wheel and the steering knuckle for it to be safe for street use.
If your going to have a ****ty drag-link angle, just mount a trac-bar with the same ****ty angle to help minimize bump steer. The trac-bar will physically move the axle along an arc that will prevent the drag link from moving the knuckle while the suspension is cycling.
How high exactly will this be? From frame to axle roughly.
there will still be a mechanical link between the two. he is running a parallel 4 link and you take a link run it from the gear box to the center of the truck (where the 4 link comes together), then run it at the same angle down to the axle. Tons of show trucks do it this way, several of those guys drive on the street and say it steers good.
Let me find a pic.
Also if you can keep flow and PSI correct you can run hydro on hte raod and it will react fine, but finding that sweet spot would be tough.
Last edited by zabeard; Jun 26, 2008 at 09:36 PM.
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 10,073
Likes: 4
From: Charleston, SC
Honestly, all shipping aside, I never realized that these huge tires would be so cheap. Just a quick googling got me here: http://www.stazworks.com/tires.htm
Also, I know those are tall gears, but that is a relatively huge jump in tire size, even form what you have. Are there any taller gear available, or have you decided that is the perfect gear for you?
Also, I know those are tall gears, but that is a relatively huge jump in tire size, even form what you have. Are there any taller gear available, or have you decided that is the perfect gear for you?
thanks zach on the picture ive talked to the owner and the builder of this truck both say it handles great no bump steer just took some thinking on the build so im going to give it a shot
im going to be running 46" tires i dunno what they will measure once they are mounted but i want the body to clear them pretty good 5" or so so im guessing bottom of the door 50~53" off the ground meaning frame bout 42~48 *I dont know how much the frame sticks down also im taking the body lift off too!
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 10,073
Likes: 4
From: Charleston, SC
haha i wish slowly getting parts in what sucks tho is not having a truck i gotta get people to bring the axles and the bigger stuff to my house for me
ive been looking at gettins stazworks wheels just figuring out what all i need is the hard one..
ive been looking at gettins stazworks wheels just figuring out what all i need is the hard one..






