Project 1/2 Ton Ranger SAS
lil lesson.. anti-wrap bars aren't really for handling on the road.
it will suck. especially when the axle turns into a top loader and breaks a ujoint/yoke/driveshaft or you really get on the gas and it starts hopping and you break an axle.
Actually, I bet he doesn't have that much of a problem as far as axle wrap. I have no traction bars, 35's 4.56 gears, and a 5 Liter, and I don't have problems. As far as people dissin on the 8.8, if you throw in a better carrier and weld the tubes, they are bullet proof. They have their weak links just like any axle, but the problems can be resolved. Hell, anything can break...
I bet you will be surprised at how good it drives on the road, just put the factory swap bar on it, you can use Jeep style discos for it to make it easy to remove.
Im not sure if giving you any advice is wise or not, but remember, I have done this before on a truck just like yours. Basically the same exact thing... radius arms, coils, etc. I just used a Dana 30 instead of a 44. Its just that my first impression of you is that you already know everything about everything, and don't give a damn what anybody else thinks.
I got flammed a lot for using a Dana 30, but I had some very specific reasons as o why I went this route. So far, I don't regret my decision, and the 30 is holding up fine for me, even though I beat on it quite frequently. My point is that I explained why I used it in very great detail when somebody would challenge me. When somebody says something you disagree with, don't say "Im right b/c I am" that will get you nowhere on this site. Explain to people your reasoning and why you are right.
Anyway, your work looks great so far, keep us up to date with it.
I bet you will be surprised at how good it drives on the road, just put the factory swap bar on it, you can use Jeep style discos for it to make it easy to remove.
Im not sure if giving you any advice is wise or not, but remember, I have done this before on a truck just like yours. Basically the same exact thing... radius arms, coils, etc. I just used a Dana 30 instead of a 44. Its just that my first impression of you is that you already know everything about everything, and don't give a damn what anybody else thinks.
I got flammed a lot for using a Dana 30, but I had some very specific reasons as o why I went this route. So far, I don't regret my decision, and the 30 is holding up fine for me, even though I beat on it quite frequently. My point is that I explained why I used it in very great detail when somebody would challenge me. When somebody says something you disagree with, don't say "Im right b/c I am" that will get you nowhere on this site. Explain to people your reasoning and why you are right.
Anyway, your work looks great so far, keep us up to date with it.
well im just speaking from experience.. he is using 63s so that helps.. i had stock ranger leaves w/o a block and just the RCD shackle and had horrendous wrap.
Last edited by 99ranger4x4; Aug 25, 2009 at 07:47 PM.
Rigid pipe stands, woulda sucked getting it to ride height without em.
A good excerpt
"Do I need to run a track bar with these springs? What about axle wrap?
No a track bar isn't necessary. The leaves are plenty thick enough to resist kinking. Also you can try using the factory Chevy overload leaf, but cut the leaf flush at the rear of the spring pad and leave the front about 8" long or so. This will help prevent any axle wrap. "
Actually, I bet he doesn't have that much of a problem as far as axle wrap. I have no traction bars, 35's 4.56 gears, and a 5 Liter, and I don't have problems. As far as people dissin on the 8.8, if you throw in a better carrier and weld the tubes, they are bullet proof. They have their weak links just like any axle, but the problems can be resolved. Hell, anything can break...
I bet you will be surprised at how good it drives on the road, just put the factory swap bar on it, you can use Jeep style discos for it to make it easy to remove.
Im not sure if giving you any advice is wise or not, but remember, I have done this before on a truck just like yours. Basically the same exact thing... radius arms, coils, etc. I just used a Dana 30 instead of a 44. Its just that my first impression of you is that you already know everything about everything, and don't give a damn what anybody else thinks.
I got flammed a lot for using a Dana 30, but I had some very specific reasons as o why I went this route. So far, I don't regret my decision, and the 30 is holding up fine for me, even though I beat on it quite frequently. My point is that I explained why I used it in very great detail when somebody would challenge me. When somebody says something you disagree with, don't say "Im right b/c I am" that will get you nowhere on this site. Explain to people your reasoning and why you are right.
Anyway, your work looks great so far, keep us up to date with it.
I bet you will be surprised at how good it drives on the road, just put the factory swap bar on it, you can use Jeep style discos for it to make it easy to remove.
Im not sure if giving you any advice is wise or not, but remember, I have done this before on a truck just like yours. Basically the same exact thing... radius arms, coils, etc. I just used a Dana 30 instead of a 44. Its just that my first impression of you is that you already know everything about everything, and don't give a damn what anybody else thinks.
I got flammed a lot for using a Dana 30, but I had some very specific reasons as o why I went this route. So far, I don't regret my decision, and the 30 is holding up fine for me, even though I beat on it quite frequently. My point is that I explained why I used it in very great detail when somebody would challenge me. When somebody says something you disagree with, don't say "Im right b/c I am" that will get you nowhere on this site. Explain to people your reasoning and why you are right.
Anyway, your work looks great so far, keep us up to date with it.
Haha na if it wraps bad and it twists when articulating I'll do a tbar. Im takin it one step at a time.
Got the axle rebuilt with new everything from the knucks out. Got it under, welded on the radius arm brackets, I'm gonna put a couple bolts through them cause I've heard of the C channel frame flexing enough to possibly crack welds. Got the arms on and mounted so everything is in place. Checked flex and clearance with the wristed arm and was pretty happy. Just gotta get the modded tranny x member in, trac bar on, steering, and coils in. The frame hump on drivers side really makes mounting a coil bucket a *****. Onto the pics...

Gonna need limit straps and good bumps.


Stuffed, need to do some clearancing

Gonna need limit straps and good bumps.


Stuffed, need to do some clearancing









