SAS for Clifford
Just to point out though, my frame with 37s was 26" off the ground under the cab as well.
I dont get why people say it looks so huge! I mean yours is a good height. The thing with these trucks is they are so long! when you go up a ledge the belly is going to scrape everywhere. i have that problem now.
Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,650
Likes: 2
From: Hillsboro, Oregon
Nice, man!
I think it looks like the perfect height! Can't wait to see it in action.
Carl, I think his shock mounts are mounted the way the are because the axle doesn't have much room for up-travel. The discussion of extra height was not to make it taller, but to make more room for the axle to move up.
I think it looks like the perfect height! Can't wait to see it in action.
Carl, I think his shock mounts are mounted the way the are because the axle doesn't have much room for up-travel. The discussion of extra height was not to make it taller, but to make more room for the axle to move up.
It looks really good man I like it!
Just to point out though, my frame with 37s was 26" off the ground under the cab as well.
I dont get why people say it looks so huge! I mean yours is a good height. The thing with these trucks is they are so long! when you go up a ledge the belly is going to scrape everywhere. i have that problem now.
Just to point out though, my frame with 37s was 26" off the ground under the cab as well.
I dont get why people say it looks so huge! I mean yours is a good height. The thing with these trucks is they are so long! when you go up a ledge the belly is going to scrape everywhere. i have that problem now.
The draglink and steering arm are what is being worked on now. Page 11 is a picture of the pitman arm. The frame is being notched for the tie rod end to clear the frame. Other than that it is pretty complete. I will drive it around the street for a week or two and then it will go back for some modification. I also have a snow trip I want to make. I have a custom drive shaft that is on order. Once I get that we will see how to modify the tranny crossmember. Bumpstops are also in the works too.
Not exactly sure what shaft you're tralking about.
My fab guy is making the draglink, but first we have to see get the pitman arm in there so we can get it measured out. The steering column shaft is custom fabbed. There is a shop near his shop benchworks steering that does custom steering and he dug around there and got some pretty good stuff. Not sure what it comes from. The tie rod is also custom .250 wall (not sure on diameter) reverse threads.
My fab guy is making the draglink, but first we have to see get the pitman arm in there so we can get it measured out. The steering column shaft is custom fabbed. There is a shop near his shop benchworks steering that does custom steering and he dug around there and got some pretty good stuff. Not sure what it comes from. The tie rod is also custom .250 wall (not sure on diameter) reverse threads.
Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,650
Likes: 2
From: Hillsboro, Oregon
The ranger wheel base doesn't seem that big until you get into wheeling more, then it sucks. A lot of the trails in Oregon are super tight with a lot of turns between trees, obstables on both sides. Nothing like some careful 8 point turns in 4 low...
I was always able to get where I wanted without dragging the bottom over obstables, it was always more of an issue for me to get the truck to physically fit somewhere.
I was always able to get where I wanted without dragging the bottom over obstables, it was always more of an issue for me to get the truck to physically fit somewhere.
Here is some of the final progress from today. Notch the frame for the Pitman Arm/Tie Rod End. It is now all welded up and painted. The blank space behind the shackle that you can see is also plated up.
Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 323
Likes: 1
From: London/Cambridge Ontario
was there a vital reason to use a flat pitman arm? clearance? im assuming the flat arm is the reason you needed to clear the frame for the drag link.
your steering shaft,
is it just cv'd at both ends with a straight telescoping shaft? is it supported in the middle at all? or just connected from the pump to the column?
your steering shaft,
is it just cv'd at both ends with a straight telescoping shaft? is it supported in the middle at all? or just connected from the pump to the column?
was there a vital reason to use a flat pitman arm? clearance? im assuming the flat arm is the reason you needed to clear the frame for the drag link.
your steering shaft,
is it just cv'd at both ends with a straight telescoping shaft? is it supported in the middle at all? or just connected from the pump to the column?
your steering shaft,
is it just cv'd at both ends with a straight telescoping shaft? is it supported in the middle at all? or just connected from the pump to the column?
The flat pitman arm was used so I have plenty of clearance. The frame had to be notched so the TRE wouldn't make contact with the frame.
My steering shaft doesn't have a middle support. I looked a Zabeards thread and noticed he recommends a middle support. My steering shaft is from who knows what. I noticed that it is different as far as joint location. I will mention it to my fab guy and see what he thinks. I guess I will find out when I start driving it, but I don't like to find things out that way!
Mine
Zabeards
you will understand why that bearing is there the minute you try to turn! trust me. and when you wedge the tires in a spot and need to turn it just wont. the shaft will take all the force and it wont turn the box.
I know I've mentioned it, but the truck is getting gears, drag link, brakes, alignment, power steering lines, 1/2" axle studs, new extended breather tubes, and some other little stuff.
