it used to be 2.5" higher than what you see it in the pics.

tubing the frame was not in the budget, neither was the driveshaft being too short. i also have no idea what to do with the engine mounts.

i just need to sit back and think about it for a little while.

Well that really sucks. If you need a hand or anything give me a call after xmas as I don't go back to work until the 5th.

I'm sure you've thought about it, but could you get away with flipping the steering linkage under the Knuckle arm? or would that get the drag ling to close to the diff cover at full turn??

Run a different style of joint than those balls say heim joint... at the knuckle arm? and getting a longer pitman arm?? Flip it all down below, that may gain an inch or two at the frame when flexed upward...

Not an expert on the matter by any means but I have had my hands in a few custom suspensions, just trying to throw some ideas your way if your still scratching your head..

your gonna love those new shocks LUCKY!!!!!! my good buddy did about the same setup your going for on his samurai. Your truck will be able to take a serious beating on that set up.

oh yeah i have thought about it but i would need all new steering which is $$, plus it would be good to have the high steer.

its about money in a way.

spend it here or there. and hopefully not both. trying to do it the most inexpensive yet effective way.

That's always the biggest problem when doing custom work......$$$$$

I say take some from the steering.... It's a hole new type of $$$$$ and time when your talking tube front end....

you'd still have the high steer just 2 inches lower. doesn't look like your running center knuckle arms... how much is it going to cost to have the drive shaft lengthened?

maybe fudge with the king pin alignment a bit?? that may give you a hair more clearance Clarence...

king pin alignment?

i think i am going to pull the axle back about 3/4" then check some clearances. then go from there.

So, I'm not seeing and engine cross member, unless it is different than what my 95's looks like... What are you doing for a crossmember?

98+ Trucks dont have one.

sorry should have said kingpin axis.. pinion angle. obviously you don't want to fudge it to much or you'll throw your caster off..

yeah those pics that is set already...

we'll have fun I'm off to bed... maybe you'll come up with something by the afternoon...

i think i may have figured it out, tonight will tell. :)

btw coil overs will be here Friday

its the one that says "BAD MOTHER F**KER"

#1 TRUCK ON THIS SITE, HANDS DOWN!

Cant wait to see how it turns out.

Great to hear Zach, I hope it works out for ya

good luck man i know nothing about suspension set up like you do i read your threads to try and learn looks sweet. you have defiantly inspired me to do my own sas.

kept the frame the same, just working on trimming some things up. looks like i will be able to get the 5" of up travel i wanted.

right on.. some photo's when you have the time please :bigeyes: I wanna see..

it didnt change a lot from the night before just a bunch of measuring and tweaking to make sure it would clear.

And Grinding

Well thats good news!

Notching it like we talked about?

maybe in 1 spot. i need to get my pan hard installed and test it out.

on the panhard i have seen people bend them some to clear certain things. When you bend them which angle do you match your drag link to.

I have always wondered this, here is a pic. The Black line is the bent pan hard. the Red line is if it was straight and the blue is the drag link.

so which angle actually counts on the panhard when you bend it? the imaginary straight line or the parts just after the joint.

I've wondered the same!! Might have to go with a bent trac bar on my truck and was wondering about that!

the imaginary line is the important one.

so your saying...

no matter how the pan hard is bent its still the same angle... right? That is what I think but I could be wrong, its just been bugging me. too much thought into it I suppose.