I was driving home from work and truck stalled and wouldn’t crank back up. Got it home and noticed fuel pump wasn’t coming on. So I replaced the fuel pump and still nothing. Noticed the 20 fuel pump fuze was blowed replaced it and blowed again. So I unplugged the fuel pump and put a new 20 fuze in and it blew again. So I also took the fp relay out and put another new 20 fuze in and the fuze didn’t blow. So I started checking wires coming from fuel pump to the relay didn’t see any melted or spliced wires. Any help will be very appreciated. 1997 ford ranger 2.3

 

Welcome to the forum

1997 engine bay fuse box, Fuse #9 20amp is also used by anti-theft system, if so equipped, just FYI

But if it didn't blow with FP relay unplugged then most likely it is a fuel pump system issue

These two diagrams cover the wiring, 4.0l and 2.3l will be the same in 1997

 

Fuel pump is brand new. What else of the fuel system could it be?I took a circuit tester and tested the plug at the fuel pump and no power, and also unplugged a connected under the truck between the cab and bed and no power there. I tested the interia switch and no power there.

 

??

If fuse is blown then yes, no power at those locations

Unplug fuel pump relay, inertia switch and fuel pump wires
At the fuel tank there is a Pink/black stripe wire, you need to test that with an OHM meter
You ground one probe on the meter then put the other probe on the Pink wire, should have high OHM number(or no change in numbers), low or 0 OHMs is a short to Ground so fuse blows
Now do the same at inertia switch wire, dark green wire

The wire that shows low or 0 OHMs has the short to ground

 

okay thanks I’ll try that out. And when I tested the fuel pump I had unplugged the fp relay and put a new fuel pump fuze in. But I didn’t use a ohm meter. I’ll get one and try it out.

 

OHM/Volt meters are handy, they have a battery inside, when set to OHMs touch the 2 probes together, you should see 0 ohms come up, that means a direct short between the probes
Then try touching one probe to battery negative and the other probe to engine metal, should also come up as 0 ohms or close to it, it depends on the SCALE of OHMs you have it set to, higher scale is more sensitive
But you are looking for a short not actual ohms, like if testing a solenoid, fuel injector or electric motor, so scale doesn't matter, low OHMs or 0 is a short between the 2 probes if one probe is grounded, on vehicle metal, and the other is on whats suppose to be a positive voltage wire, not grounded

 

okay so I bought a omh meter. I set the meter to 200 oms, at the fuel pump plug the pink and black wire said LO. However the green/black read 5.0 and the all black wire read .3. Then I tested the interia wire yellow/ green and it was a 2.4 ?
And at the time of testing I had the interia switch unplugged as well as the fuel pump and the fp relay. But I kept he fuel pump fuze in. Did I test it correctly.

 

Go up to 2,000 ohms or higher


What does meter say when you touch probes together?

Not sure what LO means on your meter

 

when I touched them together it said 0

 

Pull fuel pump relay out
Unplug inertia switch in the cab
Unplug connector for fuel pump on gas tank

On the fuel pump connector there should be a black wire, put 1 probe on the frame(bare metal), and other probe on black wire, that should read close to 0 ohms, a "short" because both are "grounds", if its not close to 0 then frame probe may not be touching bare metal, move it, until you do get 0 or close to it

Test pink wire again, with one probe on frame(bare metal), and the other on the pink/black wire, display should should not change, there should be no connection
If so then pink wire isn't shorted
If display changes then that wire is shorted

Move to the cab
Find 2 "ground points" near inertia switch, put 1 probe on each and you should get 0 ohms, that means they are both good grounds
Now test Green/yellow wire, one probe on ground point the other on the green wire, display should not change
If it does go to low ohms then that wire is shorted

 

Okay so I test the black/pink and also the black wire on the same ground so I know it would be accurate. The black said 0, and the black/pink said LO again. I found two ground points in the cab and came up as zero. I tested the green/yellow wire and it said 002.

 

You mean pink/black right?
OL may mean Over Limit, which would mean OHMs are higher than set scale(200) which is GOOD, it means no short

The green/yellow wire has the short, 002 is low OHMs so a short to ground
But green wire runs to 2 places, the Fuel Pump relay socket(under engine fuse box), and it also runs to the Computer(PCM) pin 40, but unlikely this is the short, possible though

You may need to run a new wire from fuse box to inertia switch, pull up the engine fuse box and have a look at the underside of the fuel pump relay, see if there is corrosion
There will most likely be 2 green/yellow wires attached to the one terminal, one is for inertia switch and the other for the PCM pin 40
If there is no corrosion then you will need to cut both wires, leave enough to splice new wire in
Then test both green wires from that end, only one should show the 002
Then test green wire at inertia switch again just to be sure its still 002
If so run the new wire, splice in the new wire and "good" green wire to either one of the wires going to fuel pump relay terminal


IF(big if) the inertia switch green wire shows OL after cutting the wires under fuse box then the short is on the Green wire running to PCM pin 40
So for now you can resplice the OL wire at the fuse box back in and leave the other green wire(002) that goes to the computer unhooked
That should get you back on the road
You will/should get a CEL(check engine light) from the PCM because its not seeing the fuel pump power, if not then PCM circuit is the issue not the wire
If you get the CEL you can then run a new wire to pin 40 of PCM when time permits, this won't effect running the engine

 

yes sorry I meant pink/ black. And the meter was set at 2000 ohms. And thanks a lot I’ll try that out and see what happens.

 

okay so I thought I’d just hardwire the fuel pump testing so many wires became a headache I don’t wanna deal with right now. Ik the pink/black is the positive, so I ran that to a relay. And grounded the black out. What do I do to the remaining two wires?
there’s a yellow and black/green left and ik the ecu is suppose to tell the fuel pump to come on.

 

If you are talking about the 4 wires at the fuel tank
The yellow/white wire is for fuel level(the sender inside the tank) and Black/yellow is the ground for the sender
Yellow/white runs to the instrument cluster, fuel gauge

Yes, computer controls fuel pump power using the relay in the engine bay fuse box

Battery positive--------fuel pump fuse----------Fuel pump relay--------------inertia switch------------------------------------------------fuel pump-------ground

Fuel pump needs a 20amp fuse