Hey guys, I'm new to the forum and have an issue. I replaced my sons 98 4.0 OHV 4x4 5spd with a donor engine from a 98 2x4 automatic. Swap went ok and the donor engine had the harness on it already and I left it in place. When trying to crank, it wouldn't turn over b/c the starter relay wouldn't energize b/c the it was expecting the tranny neutral/park safety switch to be closed - which my truck doesn't have; it has only the clutch pedal switch. I traced it down and can fix this issue by jumping the wiring on connector on c110; that big square connector on the drivers side of the engine. The donor harness had 2 connectors that can be connected to a Manual or Auto tranny and I only used the one for the manual (the black one) that mated up with my manual tranny.

My question is: will I find other issues by having left the donor harness in place? I can swap the harness out with the original but its just more work and now that it's in the truck, it's even more hassle. If any other issues anyone know of, I would sure appreciate the head's up!

Thanks for the help guys!!
Mark

 

Welcome to the forum

There were two differences in 1998
Ford Alarm(anti-theft) was an option, not PATS, but it had a Starter interrupt Relay added to the circuit.

All Rangers were wired for manual transmission only
Difference in manual or auto was the auto had an added harness that plugged into the Clutch switch connector(above clutch pedal location) and ran down to the Transmission Ranger sensor on the trans shifter

Wiring diagram below

I don't see C110 mentioned
Starter interrupt relay should be under the dash, if it has one
Starter Relay would be in the engine fuse box.
Only wire that might be on the Engine connector would be the Black wire from starter relay(engine fuse box) to the starter motor's "S" connector(small connector)
Rest of the wires be in the dash or to engine fuse box wiring

 

Thanks for chiming in Ron. If you look at the wiring in this link you will see the options in wiring for Manual vs Auto. The starter relay is K6 and gets energized if the clutch pedal is pressed but it is different if on auto tranny since its looking for the neutral switch. C110 pin 24 is where the circuit either goes to the neutral safety switch or clutch switch. I've fixed this issue already this morning but was wondering if there were other possible issues. The truck is running right now so I'll see how it goes.

https://static.cargurus.com/images/s...433.1498184665

 

Yes, better diagram

Looks like either runs to C110 24 and then to C110 31


Auto wiring runs from C110 24 down to trans DTR sensor and back to C110 31
Manual just jumps from 24 to 31 as far as I can tell, so you just need to jumper that to by-pass DTR

So there is a clutch switch by-pass for automatics
And a DTR sensor by-pass for manuals, never ran across the DTR by-pass before

 

Yep, I cut the wiring off the engine side of C110 and butt-spliced pin 24 & 31; she cranks and seems to be fine. I haven't ran into any other issues just yet.

 

Good work

Thanks for the info and fix

 

Have a 98 2wd auto would like to put the 98 trans into a 95 2wd which is a manual .Have both trucks.Is this possible,I realize a lot of stuff has to be changed.But I am up to the swap.Would this be a practical swap bring we have all the parts.Thank you

 

Welcome to the forum

You should always start your own thread, this is considered High Jacking

Engines need to be the same size or transmission won't fit on other engine
You need to swap computers, which is also an engine size issue
So you need to include more info

1995 Ranger with XX engine and manual trans, swap in Automatic from 1998 Ranger with XX engine, if the XX don't match then moot point, you do NOT have all the parts

Then go here: https://www.ranger-forums.com/genera...discussion-15/

Click on "+ New Thread" on the left side
That will start your own thread, include the info needed and question