2004 4.0 69k grinding noise when running
2004 4.0 69k grinding noise when running
Hi, i have a 2004 ford ranger, and it was running fine yesterday. I jumped in it to go make a run to the auto parts store. Started the truck and holy crap, it started making a nasty grinding noise, and it continues while running. It will also, just started happening, as soon as you push the key forward at all, will try to start. Not in the starting position but before like acc. Was also making some kind of clicking noise under left side of dash.
could it be bad switch?, starter stuck on?, bad selenoid?. Sounds like upper drivers valvetrain noise odd.
any ideas?
could it be bad switch?, starter stuck on?, bad selenoid?. Sounds like upper drivers valvetrain noise odd.
any ideas?
The second part sure sounds like a bad switch.
Does the first symptom sound like starter gear grinding....like it's not disengaging? They say Bendix springs NEVER break.
but...."upper driver's valvetrain noise" is softer and rhythmic.
Does the first symptom sound like starter gear grinding....like it's not disengaging? They say Bendix springs NEVER break.
but...."upper driver's valvetrain noise" is softer and rhythmic.
Update....
Thanks for the input, i just went outside , got in the truck, slowly turned the ignition key to acc. It did not try to start. I said hmmm ok, not stuck anymore.
turned key all the way to start, it fired and sounds fine, the ignition must have somehow been stuck. The switch, or the starter..
i have no idea what ot was or how to even troubleshoot it. Ideas?
thanks
turned key all the way to start, it fired and sounds fine, the ignition must have somehow been stuck. The switch, or the starter..
i have no idea what ot was or how to even troubleshoot it. Ideas?
thanks
Yes, +1 ^^^^
Get a volt meter and test battery after it has been sitting overnight or at least 4 hours
12.8volt is a new battery
12.5v is a 3 year old battery
12.3v is a 5/6 year old battery and time to shop for battery sale
12.2v or lower is a failed battery, will cause starting issues and PATS(passive anti-theft) issues
Now start engine
Battery should now show Alternator voltage, the battery is ONLY USED to start the engine, alternator powers the whole vehicle after startup
You should see 14.5-14.9 volts just after startup, this is Quick ReCharge voltage, temporary, it will "cook" the battery if it stays this high
13.5-13.8 volts should be seen after 5 minutes or so of driving or idling this keeps battery charged but won't "cook" it
Dimming head lights at idle means a Field in the alternator has failed
Get a volt meter and test battery after it has been sitting overnight or at least 4 hours
12.8volt is a new battery
12.5v is a 3 year old battery
12.3v is a 5/6 year old battery and time to shop for battery sale
12.2v or lower is a failed battery, will cause starting issues and PATS(passive anti-theft) issues
Now start engine
Battery should now show Alternator voltage, the battery is ONLY USED to start the engine, alternator powers the whole vehicle after startup
You should see 14.5-14.9 volts just after startup, this is Quick ReCharge voltage, temporary, it will "cook" the battery if it stays this high
13.5-13.8 volts should be seen after 5 minutes or so of driving or idling this keeps battery charged but won't "cook" it
Dimming head lights at idle means a Field in the alternator has failed
I checked my voltages.
12.09v.....After sitting 4 days
Start engine
14.55v.....@40℉
14.14v.....after 10 minutes idling
My battery is 6.5 years old. Should I change it?
I will check the acid's level.
12.09v.....After sitting 4 days
Start engine
14.55v.....@40℉
14.14v.....after 10 minutes idling
My battery is 6.5 years old. Should I change it?
I will check the acid's level.
Last edited by Georgeandkira; Feb 2, 2020 at 03:08 PM. Reason: double checking my math
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