4.0 no run
4.0 no run
sorry to just blunder in, but at this point I need RANGER support.
2004 4.0 4x4 130k driving fine then cuts out have it towed home.
fuel psi at the rail 50 or so.
spark at all plugs
crank sensor replaced
plugs coil
truck will starts but will not run
mechanic said he could not communicate with my pcm/ecu with his 10k machine so he checked all the fuses and relays and suggested that was the problem.
bought a ecu/pcu with 2 keys and programing installed and programed the keys,
the exact same thing start but not run, only now i 3 keys to a non running truck
i have a cheap obr ready but i get NO codes
the tac starts to rise
im hoping someone has come across this before
i thank you in advance for any help with this mater
2004 4.0 4x4 130k driving fine then cuts out have it towed home.
fuel psi at the rail 50 or so.
spark at all plugs
crank sensor replaced
plugs coil
truck will starts but will not run
mechanic said he could not communicate with my pcm/ecu with his 10k machine so he checked all the fuses and relays and suggested that was the problem.
bought a ecu/pcu with 2 keys and programing installed and programed the keys,
the exact same thing start but not run, only now i 3 keys to a non running truck
i have a cheap obr ready but i get NO codes
the tac starts to rise
im hoping someone has come across this before
i thank you in advance for any help with this mater
Welcome to the forum
Do 50/50 test, FIRST, and always when you have a crank but no start
Take off the air tube on the intake end so you can see the throttle plate
Spray gasoline or ether into the engine, you can leave tube off but make sure fan doesn't hit it
Try to start engine
If it starts, runs and dies then you have spark at the right time but no fuel from the injectors
If it doesn't start and run then you have no spark or no compression
50/50 instant results
Couple of questions
Does the CEL(check engine light) come on with key on?
And does it go off when cranking?
Does the Theft Light(padlock) come on with key on and then go off?
Or does it flash rapidly?
Do 50/50 test, FIRST, and always when you have a crank but no start
Take off the air tube on the intake end so you can see the throttle plate
Spray gasoline or ether into the engine, you can leave tube off but make sure fan doesn't hit it
Try to start engine
If it starts, runs and dies then you have spark at the right time but no fuel from the injectors
If it doesn't start and run then you have no spark or no compression
50/50 instant results
Couple of questions
Does the CEL(check engine light) come on with key on?
And does it go off when cranking?
Does the Theft Light(padlock) come on with key on and then go off?
Or does it flash rapidly?
This is a guess.
I've read that the PATS (Passive Anti-theft System) will allow a Ranger to start but then cut the fuel supply.
A test is to shoot fuel - carb cleaner - starting ether into the intake while you start it and if it keeps running you know there's spark and have narrowed it down to fuel delivery.
This is another guess.
Is your fuel filter allowing fuel to pas through?
I've read that the PATS (Passive Anti-theft System) will allow a Ranger to start but then cut the fuel supply.
A test is to shoot fuel - carb cleaner - starting ether into the intake while you start it and if it keeps running you know there's spark and have narrowed it down to fuel delivery.
This is another guess.
Is your fuel filter allowing fuel to pas through?
Welcome to the forum
Do 50/50 test, FIRST, and always when you have a crank but no start
Take off the air tube on the intake end so you can see the throttle plate
Spray gasoline or ether into the engine, you can leave tube off but make sure fan doesn't hit it
Try to start engine
If it starts, runs and dies then you have spark at the right time but no fuel from the injectors
If it doesn't start and run then you have no spark or no compression
50/50 instant results
Couple of questions
Does the CEL(check engine light) come on with key on?
And does it go off when cranking?
Does the Theft Light(padlock) come on with key on and then go off?
Or does it flash rapidly?
Do 50/50 test, FIRST, and always when you have a crank but no start
Take off the air tube on the intake end so you can see the throttle plate
Spray gasoline or ether into the engine, you can leave tube off but make sure fan doesn't hit it
Try to start engine
If it starts, runs and dies then you have spark at the right time but no fuel from the injectors
If it doesn't start and run then you have no spark or no compression
50/50 instant results
Couple of questions
Does the CEL(check engine light) come on with key on?
And does it go off when cranking?
Does the Theft Light(padlock) come on with key on and then go off?
Or does it flash rapidly?
i will have to try the started fluid trick. i know there was enough compression to blow thumb off each hole.
i will also see what the check engine light is doing and get back thanks for the suggestions.
Its a good sign the pump was working, but unless filter is completely blocked, pressure, engine off, would be fine with just a dirty filter, but wouldn't cause a no start
PATS(passive anti-theft) is not an alarm, no lights or horns connected to it, its "passive"
If there is an alarm that can add another layer to a no start issue, because it may be connected in a way to prevent start up
PATS(passive anti-theft) is not an alarm, no lights or horns connected to it, its "passive"
If there is an alarm that can add another layer to a no start issue, because it may be connected in a way to prevent start up
the truck runs on starter fluid
so i have fuel at the test port on the manifold, but nothing entering the throttle body?
so i have an injector problem ? as they are not opening.?
isnt that what the ecu/pcm i just replaced supposed to do?
cel light on with key off while cranking
thank again
so i have fuel at the test port on the manifold, but nothing entering the throttle body?
so i have an injector problem ? as they are not opening.?
isnt that what the ecu/pcm i just replaced supposed to do?
cel light on with key off while cranking
thank again
Last edited by drowssap; Apr 28, 2020 at 05:07 AM.
If it starts with 50/50 test then crank sensor is working, because spark is working and timed
And yes, either the injectors are not opening or there is no fuel in the system, just air
And have to ask..........do you KNOW there is gas in the tank, not just by the gas gauge, do you KNOW
Can you have the fuel pressure gauge hooked up while you do the 50/50 test again?
Pressure should drop while cranking(fuel pump is off) then go up to 60psi when engine starts(fuel pump turns on above 400 rpms)
And yes, either the injectors are not opening or there is no fuel in the system, just air
And have to ask..........do you KNOW there is gas in the tank, not just by the gas gauge, do you KNOW
Can you have the fuel pressure gauge hooked up while you do the 50/50 test again?
Pressure should drop while cranking(fuel pump is off) then go up to 60psi when engine starts(fuel pump turns on above 400 rpms)
If it starts with 50/50 test then crank sensor is working, because spark is working and timed
And yes, either the injectors are not opening or there is no fuel in the system, just air
And have to ask..........do you KNOW there is gas in the tank, not just by the gas gauge, do you KNOW
yes the tank is full, i started think if was a fuel pump so i replaced the pump with a new motorcraft fuel pump.after that i bought a fuel pressure tester
.
can you have the fuel pressure gauge hooked up while you do the 50/50 test again? YES
Pressure should drop while cranking(fuel pump is off) then go up to 60 psi when engine starts(fuel pump turns on above 400 rpms)
And yes, either the injectors are not opening or there is no fuel in the system, just air
And have to ask..........do you KNOW there is gas in the tank, not just by the gas gauge, do you KNOW
yes the tank is full, i started think if was a fuel pump so i replaced the pump with a new motorcraft fuel pump.after that i bought a fuel pressure tester
.can you have the fuel pressure gauge hooked up while you do the 50/50 test again? YES
Pressure should drop while cranking(fuel pump is off) then go up to 60 psi when engine starts(fuel pump turns on above 400 rpms)
unfortunately i will have to wait until late this afternoon to check
thanks again for walking an old man threw fuel injection
I had to ask about gas in the tank, I have spent more than a few hours diagnosing vehicles with EMPTY gas tanks myself, lol
If you have a volt meter you can test any one of the fuel injectors for 12volts, with key on, just back probe either wire that's easiest to get to
All the fuel injectors get 12volts with key on(red wire, but both wires at each injector will show 12v)
Each injector has its own wire that runs back to the computer(non-red wire), the computer then Grounds that wire to open the injector for a few milliseconds to add fuel to the intake when you are cranking the engine, and of course when its running
PATS disables this injector Grounding, but it also disables the Fuel Pump power AND starter relay, so no crank either
If you have a volt meter you can test any one of the fuel injectors for 12volts, with key on, just back probe either wire that's easiest to get to
All the fuel injectors get 12volts with key on(red wire, but both wires at each injector will show 12v)
Each injector has its own wire that runs back to the computer(non-red wire), the computer then Grounds that wire to open the injector for a few milliseconds to add fuel to the intake when you are cranking the engine, and of course when its running
PATS disables this injector Grounding, but it also disables the Fuel Pump power AND starter relay, so no crank either
Last edited by RonD; Apr 28, 2020 at 09:41 AM.
Pump shouldn't be on when cranking, it only runs for 2 seconds with key on, then won't run again until engine starts(above 400rpm)
So pressure didn't drop while cranking?
If not that would mean injectors were not opening
Unplug the 3 wire connector on TPS(throttle position sensor) and try starting engine
Long shot, but shorted TPS can turn off fuel injectors while cranking
So pressure didn't drop while cranking?
If not that would mean injectors were not opening
Unplug the 3 wire connector on TPS(throttle position sensor) and try starting engine
Long shot, but shorted TPS can turn off fuel injectors while cranking
Last edited by RonD; Apr 30, 2020 at 09:26 AM.
i guess im using the wrong term.
pressure drops while cranking (not the pump cutting out)
and maintains when not.
i tying starting it with the tps disconnected,
no difference.
frustrating part is it does not sound bad on starter fluid.
it not shacking and rattling
pressure drops while cranking (not the pump cutting out)
and maintains when not.
i tying starting it with the tps disconnected,
no difference.
frustrating part is it does not sound bad on starter fluid.
it not shacking and rattling
Sorry I mis-spoke, should have been "fuel pump shouldn't be on while cranking....", I edited it above
Then you are down to PCM(computer) issue, its not opening the injectors, you can confirm that with a Noid Light, it connects to fuel injector wires and will Flash when PCM Grounds that injector
But 50/50 test and fuel pressure test pretty much confirms that PCM is not opening injectors
You could test if an injector has 12volts with key on, the red wire, all 6 injectors share that 1 red wire, so it is possible a bad connection, on that larger square connector, has cut 12v to all 6 wires
Then you are down to PCM(computer) issue, its not opening the injectors, you can confirm that with a Noid Light, it connects to fuel injector wires and will Flash when PCM Grounds that injector
But 50/50 test and fuel pressure test pretty much confirms that PCM is not opening injectors
You could test if an injector has 12volts with key on, the red wire, all 6 injectors share that 1 red wire, so it is possible a bad connection, on that larger square connector, has cut 12v to all 6 wires
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