Replacing master cylinder with ABS
Replacing master cylinder with ABS
Hey all,
I've got a 2005 Ford Ranger Edge 3.0 rwd (automatic trans). I'm planning on replacing the brake master cylinder, given feedback on a prior post. My question is: since I have four wheel ABS, can I still replace the master cylinder from home without having any specialized tools? I ask because the Haynes manual advises against replacing the master cylinder at home if you have ABS, because of the need to bleed the ABS system with specialized tools. Is there any particular technique to replacing the master cylinder so as to avoid the need to bleed the ABS? Or am I just going to have to take the truck to a shop?
I'm sure others have asked this question before, but I couldn't find what I was looking for. Thanks for any suggestions or tips!
I've got a 2005 Ford Ranger Edge 3.0 rwd (automatic trans). I'm planning on replacing the brake master cylinder, given feedback on a prior post. My question is: since I have four wheel ABS, can I still replace the master cylinder from home without having any specialized tools? I ask because the Haynes manual advises against replacing the master cylinder at home if you have ABS, because of the need to bleed the ABS system with specialized tools. Is there any particular technique to replacing the master cylinder so as to avoid the need to bleed the ABS? Or am I just going to have to take the truck to a shop?
I'm sure others have asked this question before, but I couldn't find what I was looking for. Thanks for any suggestions or tips!
You can do it at home, you just want to avoid getting air into the 2 brake lines that run from Master to ABS module
Picture of 4WABS module here: https://www.ranger-forums.com/attach...s-imag0044.jpg
5 brake lines
2 IN from Master
2 OUT to front wheels
1 OUT to rear wheels
Couple of ways to do it
For either its best to unplug the sensor on Master, and unbolt it from Booster first, so it can be pulled out faster after brake lines are unscrewed
You can unscrew the 2 Master lines on the ABS module, have a towel down because a little fluid will flow out of the raised part of the line
Air can't get into the ABS module because fluid is held in place by gravity, i.e. fluid can't run out of module
Remove the 2 lines from Master, more fluid will come out of lines and Master, brake fluid is very corrosive to Paint and other things so treat it with respect
Install new master, bolt it to Booster
Connect the 2 lines to master
Fill master with brake fluid
Need a helper for this part
Have someone push down slowly on brake pedal until fluid comes out the brake lines at module end, so air is out of the brake lines
Screw on the brake lines as fluid flows out, messy but need to keep the air out
OR
Get screws or small "stoppers" that you think will fit in the brake lines at the Master end of the lines
Remove each line and put a "stopper" in the end so fluid can't run out of the line and let air IN
Replace master, bolt it to Booster
Fill it up and fluid will run out of the Line ports, gravity feed
Remove "stopper" and screw that line back on, repeat for both lines
Picture of 4WABS module here: https://www.ranger-forums.com/attach...s-imag0044.jpg
5 brake lines
2 IN from Master
2 OUT to front wheels
1 OUT to rear wheels
Couple of ways to do it
For either its best to unplug the sensor on Master, and unbolt it from Booster first, so it can be pulled out faster after brake lines are unscrewed
You can unscrew the 2 Master lines on the ABS module, have a towel down because a little fluid will flow out of the raised part of the line
Air can't get into the ABS module because fluid is held in place by gravity, i.e. fluid can't run out of module
Remove the 2 lines from Master, more fluid will come out of lines and Master, brake fluid is very corrosive to Paint and other things so treat it with respect
Install new master, bolt it to Booster
Connect the 2 lines to master
Fill master with brake fluid
Need a helper for this part
Have someone push down slowly on brake pedal until fluid comes out the brake lines at module end, so air is out of the brake lines
Screw on the brake lines as fluid flows out, messy but need to keep the air out
OR
Get screws or small "stoppers" that you think will fit in the brake lines at the Master end of the lines
Remove each line and put a "stopper" in the end so fluid can't run out of the line and let air IN
Replace master, bolt it to Booster
Fill it up and fluid will run out of the Line ports, gravity feed
Remove "stopper" and screw that line back on, repeat for both lines
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