Hello all! Forgive me if there is a thread for this, perhaps I missed it.

Anyways! Much to my dismay I have found that my power window switch on my driver's side doesn't work. No click, no wirring, nothing. HOWEVER, my passenger side window does work without any issues whatsoever.

What I have done thus far:

Pulled the switch, drowned it in contact cleaner.

Tested it with a multimeter, tests are good.

Probed for power, no power to the plug in the door.

Found out that if I have the window switch on the drivers side out of the system, the switch on the passenger side won't work. Plug it back in, magically the passenger side switch works. Master switch on the driver's side still doesn't work.

Reading that it might be the one touch down relay? Is there a way to test this thing? Wouldn't surprise me if that was the issue.

 

Welcome to the forum

You should include the year of the Ranger with questions

Power windows are fairly straight forward
Window motor is 12volt DC, if it gets 12v on one wire and Ground on the other wire it turns clockwise(window up), if you reverse polarity on the 2 wires motor turns counter clockwise(window down)

The way the buttons work is to Ground BOTH wires all the time, button not being touched
When you press the button it unGrounds ONE wire and connects it to 12volts, so motor spins one way or the other way

Master switch is the Ground for all windows, that's how they can control other windows, so if you unplug the Master switch then other windows have no Ground so won't work

Unplug the two wire connector on Drivers side motor
Hook up a Volt meter or test light to the unplugged wires going to switch
Plug in Master switch
Turn on key
Press button
Should see +12v or -12v on Volt meter, or Test light should come on
If you see 12v or test light comes on the switch and wiring are OK, window motor is bad

If no 12v then switch is most likely bad, especially if Passenger side window works, both switches share the 12v wire

All power window motors have a Thermal cutoff switch inside, that why they stop when window is up or down all the way, there are no "limit switches"
When the motor's amps go up when it can no longer move the window the Thermal switch heats up and cuts 12v or ground on one of the wires, these can fail, so no more motor movement, not a replaceable part

If you have a 2004 or later Ranger then One Touch Down relay is part of the Body Computer, the SJB, so not a serviceable part have to replace the whole SJB
2003 and earlier have a separate relay in Relay Box 1 above gas pedal

On the Master wiring look for a Grey/yellow stripe wire, thats the 12volt Key on wire, test if it has 12v
If not then could be the Connector on SJB or broken wire from SJB to the door switch
The Door wires come in thru the door Jamb Boot and wires get bent back and forth every time door is opened and closed, most common place for broken door wire
You can pull off the kick panel and find the Grey/Yellow wire and test it there for 12v, use a sewing needle

 

Thanks for the welcome!

Ah yes! Sorry, its a 2007 FX4. 366,000 kms currently.
And alright, so I checked the grey/yellow wire for power. Found no power is getting to it. For the fun of it I tested the motor by hooking up a 12 volt battery to it, and it works just fine.

Now, here is an interesting thing; before hopping online and seeing your reply (sorry!) I swapped the one touch down switch and got the window to work! For a minute. Turned the truck off, then on again and the switch stopped working, again. At the point where I may just swap the system over to the manual window configuration. But this SJM you speak of, what is it, and how does one test it?

 

There is no one touch down "switch", its a relay inside the SJB
So no voltage at the Master switch, that would be why drivers side window won't work, passenger side has its own 12v wire, but is Grounded from Master


SJB(smart junction box) is the Body computer, runs all the cab electrics, Cab fuse box is part of the SJB

Look here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...horn_mod.shtml

This article shows what the SJB looks like
The one thing to look at is the 4 LARGE connectors, these can get corrosion inside

Seen here: https://i1.wp.com/sparkys-answers.co...0/DSC09929.jpg

You can remove the kick panel and then remove each connector and have a look
Connector numbering on SJB is seen here: https://i1.wp.com/sparkys-answers.co...0/DSC09929.jpg

Below diagram is for 2007 Ranger, but same as 2006
C2280C pin 16 is the grey/yellow wire that runs to drivers door switch, it should have 12v with key on when its plugged in to SJB

If it does then the wire from there to the door is broken
If it doesn't then pull the connector and check for corrosion

Pin 13 on same connector(purple/white wire) is for passenger door 12v and its working since passenger door window works

Bad one touch relay can prevent window from working but wouldn't prevent 12volts from being at the switch, not how it works, so I doubt one touch relay is the issue

Just a heads up, converting to manual windows will be way more work than fixing 1 wire, which seems to be the only problem, also finding the door panels can be a pain. and expensive since most are electric

Worst case, you can run a new wire from pin 13 to drivers door

And way worst case, once you have 12v at Master switch and no window function, you can by-pass one touch system by splicing 2 wires in driver door

 

Thanks for sending that!

Now the question is, which is pin 13 and 16? The photo that you had sent didnt specify which pin was 13 and 16.Popped them all off anyways, found they were all clean. No corrosion that I could find from my glance.

So this leaves either a broken wire or the SJB isn't sending power to said pin. . .? I found 3 grey and yellow wires on one connector alone, so I'll dig into it moreso later today. What other issues could it be? I checked the switch, continuity checks out. Unless that switch has to have a certain level of resistance to work. . .

 

Look for purple/white wire as well, pin 13

Connector 2280c

Looks to be 13 pins on each row, 4 rows for 52 pins
Purple/white should be at the end on #1 row
Pin 14 opposite end on next row

 

Update:

Can't seem to get a solid determination on what connector 2280c is. Closest I found was connector 2C. . . of which only had 8 pins. None of my connectors have 13 pins crosswise from what I gathered. I guestimated that was the right one based upon the fact that there is only 2 yellow/grey wires in that SJB for my Ranger (one of which goes to the power lock on the driver's side) the power window wire for the passenger side was hooked up to that connector also. Double checked that by checking for continuity and voltage on the smaller yellow/grey wire and the wire for the passenger side window. Both are good. My hunch was correct, this is most likely the right connector (2280c).

Anyways; checked for continuity between the master switch and the SJB, no luck. For the fun of it, checked for voltage. Also, nothing. I am pretty sure I got a broken wire now. Unless there is a connector or something else between the two that diverts the wire, that is my determination. Thanks for the help!

Time to decide on going to the junkyard and installing manual windows (got a bead on all the parts) or to run a new wire through . . . Decisions. . . Decisions . . . Decisions 🤔

 

Sorry posted the wrong link in other post, look here: https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.co...nction-Box.jpg

Shows which one of the large connectors is 2280c

My GUESS would be top left is pin 1

 

Ok thanks for firing that link over!

My guestimate was correct, the top RH one is the one for power windows. Pin numbering I do know is on there, I believe its either right to left, or left to right. I can't recall currently. It is engraved on the SJB however.

Thanks again for your help! It's unfortunate that it's most likely a broken wire, but it's good to know what I am up against.

 

Most likely broken in the driver's door jamb rubber boot

The grey/yellow wire(pin 16) AND the purple/white wire(pin 13) should both have 12v with key on, if not then problem is in SJB
If they both have 12v then yes, if no 12v on the grey/yellow wire in the door then broken wire

Pull the drivers side kick panel and you will see all the wires that go into the door, find the grey/yellow wire and cut it, or test it for 12v using a sewing needle
If it has 12v then cut it, the wire from SJB to there is OK
You will need to try and fish a new wire thru the rubber boot, bendable metal rod can work, i.e. coat hanger, tape a string to it, push it thru and grab the string, pull enough string out, then pull the metal rod out
Tape new wire to string and pull it thru
Cut grey/yellow wire at switch plug and splice new wire on, then do the same at kick panel end

 

Checked both of those wires and they both have the 12 volts they require so the SJB is still good thankfully!

I am suspecting that's where it is as well. I will be popping that panel off sometime this week and seeing if that's where the wire has failed, and will likely be doing as you had stated, run a new wire through and splicing it into the system. HOPEFULLY that'll be the last electrical issue to deal with for the next little while.