2001 3.0 Cranks But Won't Start
2001 3.0 Cranks But Won't Start
Parked the truck overnight, now it cranks but won't start.
- Theft light flashing
- No codes
- Good Spark
- Shutoff switch OK (continuity, also jumped it and no fuel pump action)
- Dash panel fuel pump fuse good. Did not check the relay yet
- It will start with starter fluid, immediately dies
- No fuel coming out of the schrader valve on the fuel rail
Obviously I have a fuel delivery issue but not sure where to go next with diagnosis. Going under it tomorrow to check for power at the pump. At this point I'm thinking pump failure or broken wire/bad ground. Any other ideas?
Thanks!
- Theft light flashing
- No codes
- Good Spark
- Shutoff switch OK (continuity, also jumped it and no fuel pump action)
- Dash panel fuel pump fuse good. Did not check the relay yet
- It will start with starter fluid, immediately dies
- No fuel coming out of the schrader valve on the fuel rail
Obviously I have a fuel delivery issue but not sure where to go next with diagnosis. Going under it tomorrow to check for power at the pump. At this point I'm thinking pump failure or broken wire/bad ground. Any other ideas?
Thanks!
THEFT light flashing with key on means No Start, PATS(passive anti-theft system) has been activated
No starter motor
No Fuel Pump
No fuel injectors
With key on wait 45-60 seconds and THEFT light will start to flash a 2 digit code number, 11 to 16,it will repeat it several times, you can turn key off once you know the code
11 Transceiver [transponder coil] not connected, or there is no power to it.
12 Transceiver internal fault.
13 No Key/no PATS key has been used to turn the ignition switch.
14 Incomplete key code received.
15 Invalid key code received.
16 CAN communications error.
PATS can also be activated by low battery power
Test battery, should be 12.3v to 12.8volts, key on
Codes 13, 14, or 15 usually
No starter motor
No Fuel Pump
No fuel injectors
With key on wait 45-60 seconds and THEFT light will start to flash a 2 digit code number, 11 to 16,it will repeat it several times, you can turn key off once you know the code
11 Transceiver [transponder coil] not connected, or there is no power to it.
12 Transceiver internal fault.
13 No Key/no PATS key has been used to turn the ignition switch.
14 Incomplete key code received.
15 Invalid key code received.
16 CAN communications error.
PATS can also be activated by low battery power
Test battery, should be 12.3v to 12.8volts, key on
Codes 13, 14, or 15 usually
And there is gas in the tank, always need to ask, not gas on the gauge but gas IN the tank
If it starts with 50/50 test(spray fuel directly into the engine) then issue is most likely the fuel pump
You can try a new fuel filter but they usually don't clog fully so no start at all
When you turn on the key you should hear the fuel pump run for 2 seconds, it is not quiet, and it will run each time you turn on the key
There would be a code if FP relay didn't work or FP fuse was blown
P0230 Fuel Pump Primary Circuit Malfunction<<FP relay
P0231 Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Low<<FP fuse
If it starts with 50/50 test(spray fuel directly into the engine) then issue is most likely the fuel pump
You can try a new fuel filter but they usually don't clog fully so no start at all
When you turn on the key you should hear the fuel pump run for 2 seconds, it is not quiet, and it will run each time you turn on the key
There would be a code if FP relay didn't work or FP fuse was blown
P0230 Fuel Pump Primary Circuit Malfunction<<FP relay
P0231 Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Low<<FP fuse
Thanks Ron, it turned out to be the fuel pump.
Now I have a surging/bucking issue when engine is under load, part throttle acceleration and steady running at 55 MPH. No obvious misfire at idle, which seems pretty smooth. No codes. The truck sat for 5 years, so I suppose it could be anything. Any ideas? Thanks!
Now I have a surging/bucking issue when engine is under load, part throttle acceleration and steady running at 55 MPH. No obvious misfire at idle, which seems pretty smooth. No codes. The truck sat for 5 years, so I suppose it could be anything. Any ideas? Thanks!
Thanks Ron, it turned out to be the fuel pump.
Now I have a surging/bucking issue when engine is under load, part throttle acceleration and steady running at 55 MPH. No obvious misfire at idle, which seems pretty smooth. No codes. The truck sat for 5 years, so I suppose it could be anything. Any ideas? Thanks!
Now I have a surging/bucking issue when engine is under load, part throttle acceleration and steady running at 55 MPH. No obvious misfire at idle, which seems pretty smooth. No codes. The truck sat for 5 years, so I suppose it could be anything. Any ideas? Thanks!
Thoroughly cleaned tank when changing the pump. Also new fuel filter. Fresh gas with a tip of a can of injector cleaner. Reading a lot of threads about vacuum leaks, EGR etc. The diagnostics for those are cheap and easy, so I'm starting there tomorrow. Also picked up a crankshaft sensor to put on - cheap experiment
When you turn the key on the CEL(check engine light) should come on, that means the Computer has booted up OK
When you crank the engine the CEL should go off, that means the Computer is getting a good timing signal from the Crank Sensor
When you crank the engine the CEL should go off, that means the Computer is getting a good timing signal from the Crank Sensor
Thanks Ron,
The CEL light comes and goes as you described. Actually it idles very nice and if I run it up to 2000-3000 in neutral and hold it, it doesn't waver at all. Checked bearings and brakes - all OK. About the only thing left seems to be the tranny. It's a 3.0 auto and sat for 5 years. Topped off the fluid (no burnt smell) and it shifts perfectly on time. Puzzling
The CEL light comes and goes as you described. Actually it idles very nice and if I run it up to 2000-3000 in neutral and hold it, it doesn't waver at all. Checked bearings and brakes - all OK. About the only thing left seems to be the tranny. It's a 3.0 auto and sat for 5 years. Topped off the fluid (no burnt smell) and it shifts perfectly on time. Puzzling
Well, I don't claim to be a good diagnostician, but this one takes the cake. I've read so much about tranny issues that were similar to what I was experiencing, so that's what I focused on with all the vibration. Kinda made sense since the ruck sat for so long. Tires were severely dry rotted, so I put a new set on. Its a new truck! So yes, sitting in one spot for 5 years will definitely result in flat spots!
Nope, sensors good. The truck's been running great after the fuel pump replace. It occasionally throws an evap code for the gas cap. But for a truck that didn't turn a wheel for 5+ years it's pretty good.
Key on no CEL pre check
I had no fuel pressure at rail. Relay and fuse ok even swapped out relay no change. Installed new fuel pump still no pressure at rail. What does mean I turn on ignition no pre check of check engine light. How do I know if I have a faulty crank position sensor. ??? Thanks
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