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94 ranger 4.0 no crank no start

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Old Oct 10, 2023
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strangerranger\\\'s Avatar
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From: las vegas
94 ranger 4.0 no crank no start

Hello guys I hope you are doing well on the other side of the screen. I am doing a same engine swap. I am not able to get it started so far I have replaced the battery, the starter relay the fuel pump, and the ignition switch. I also had my starter tested and it was good. I had one of my buddies who used to be a mechanic test out the electrical system we tested all the fuses in the fuse box and the fuse box underneath the dash and also tested the inertia switch the neutral safety switch and they are all working. When I turn the key all the way nothing happens I hear a click at the fuse box and that's it. The only way I am able to get it to crank is by pressing the starter relay with a flathead screwdriver. I was able to get it started with a 50/50 test and then it died instantly
 
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Old Oct 10, 2023
  #2  
RonD's Avatar
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From: Vancouver, BC
Welcome to the forum

Fuse 1 in engine bay fuse box powers the ignition switch, 60amp

Manual or automatic?

Manual has a Clutch switch, on the pedal, clutch pedal needs to be down to the floor to activate starter
Automatic has the NSS switch, on transmission, it needs to be in Park or Neutral to activate starter

Ignition switch has a red/blue wire that runs to the clutch switch or the NSS, it changes to Pink, then at the firewall it changes back to red/blue
Red/blue wire runs to the Starter Relay's "S" post(inner fender relay), small post with "S" next to it

Ignition switch-----------------clutch or NSS--------------------"S" starter relay(inner fender)

On the starter relay there should be a wire from Battery positive and several wires with it on the same larger post, FYI, this is the 12volt distribution post for the WHOLE Vehicle
Other larger post should have ONE wire, Black wire, it runs down to starter motors "S" post, smaller post on the smaller tube on top of starter motor

Larger battery positive cable runs to the starter motor directly, as does larger battery Negative cable, but it is connected to starter motor bolt holding it to bell housing, the main vehicle ground


When you turn the key on(not to START) you should HEAR the fuel pump in the tank run, but only for 2 seconds, repeat key off and then on and listen, its not quiet
You should also hear two relays in engine fuse box "click" closed, then 2 seconds later one will click open, the fuel pump relay

The first relay activated with key on is the EEC or PCM relay, when it closes you should see the CEL(check engine light) on the dash come on, that means the computer has power and is booted up, no CEL then no start
EEC relay also powers the fuel pump relay(not fuel pump), when computer boots up it activates the fuel pump relay for 2 seconds

There should be a layout diagram on the lid of engine fuse box to tell you which relay is which, and fuses

If CEL is not coming on then thats the issue of no start, but not no crank




 
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