^^^^beware of airbags deployment if doing this!!!

 

ok thanks...they were a lil bent already from my wreck and i would love if i had the dough to get it fixed up on a frame machine but guess BFH it is lol

 

no problem with this...gave my truck the rear end of a civic for Christmas and no airbags then lol

 

dude i was j/k way to over react.

 

If you're worried about the air bags, then disconnect the neg, then the pos wait like 5 min. Then pull your air bag fuse and BEAT IT!

Brenton

 

take off your pants and jacket too

 

yea i think the rack and pinion is in the way up front there at that crossmember, i was looking at that area while we were there. We tried going from the hitch with no luck, 4x4 was gettin stuck, too slick over there.

 

So uh, how much luck did you have with getting that fuel filter off? At least I got it swapped out and last time I checked it hasn't fallen off. I'd call it a success, nothing half assed about it

No there were no tow hooks up front and too much distance of mud out back to pull that way. Believe me we exhausted all other options. I thought about the swaybar cause I used that as a recovery point in my old chevy numerous times and it never got bent. That was big swaybar, one of chevy's brighter engineering moments.

Far from it. What would you have done? I did what I had to do and that truck is no longer sitting in the muck.

Oh good, then you can crush the windshield in.

 

Thats where you'd be wrong, its welded on the frame.

 

I guess I needed a smilie with my windshield strap idea. IT WAS A JOKE!!!!!!!

 

I used a come-a-long and pulled mine right out

 

Are you the guy that came up with the ingenious duct tape wrapping to hold it in?

 

Uh, that was my idea

 

Guess that answers that question.

But it sounds like something I would do. I used duct tape to hold a fuel pump line on a Bronco once while limping it home. Worked pretty well.

 

Pretty dang clever, not the safest way but hey if it works.

 

duct tape and WD-40....the only tools a guy needs....lol

 

x2. The WD-40 if for anything that is supposed to move and isn't, Duct Tape is for anything moving that shouldn't.

 

.

 

Still no good pull points for the front of her truck from you guys? I thought they would be raining in after what you guys were saying. Rack & Pinion takes out going from the front crossmember, no tow hooks, anyone?

 

Looks like yall had a ton of fun!

 

Like I said, if you can slip the tow strap below the R&P, then do that. I've done that before, but I also have smarter friends who know not to yank people out.

Brenton

 

Like I said, there wasn't room for a 4" strap to go below the R&P. Also given it was a 'weak' spot to begin with, it sure doesn't take much of a 'yank' to bend that part. I for one saw not much of a yank. You'd have to admit it'd be a hell of a lot harder to bend that subframe under the r&p than the crossmember hooked to, right? So there is no need for the 'smarter friends' comment, sounds to me you'd be in the same situation since your one and only hookup recommendation (below r&p) wouldn't work with the given 4" strap. I'm not trying to stir anything up, but you're giving Kelly and I a hard time for that hookup point, when really you have nothing better to suggest and cure the problem for the next time....

Can't get mad at the guys trying to help out, not our decision to pull the front tow hooks for the body lift. Thats one of the con's of the body lift. This really isn't a pissing contest of who would pull what, how, or when. Every situation is going to be different, with a strap that wouldn't wrap around the front k-member...where would YOU hook it to? So far I've heard no other suggestions, therefore making that "the best we could do". Tried pulling from the back, however the recovery vehicle was getting itself stuck in the muck, going from the front offered more stable ground for the truck to pull from.

If anyone has any other suggestions than the k-member below the R&P with a 4"...let us know for next time, sure as hell isn't going to be her last time getting stuck!! I went out and bought a 2" 20,000lb strap that would slip through that k-member just fine since last Sunday. For my own personal use when I go out, we had to work with what we had at the time just like anyone else, and I won't necessarily be there everytime with "the only strap that'll fit through the k-member/only pull point from the front". Sounds to me it'd be in her best interest to pickup a thinner strap like that herself as well ($35).

 

Also, these pics are about 5 mins apart. At first she was hardly stuck, would have easily pulled out from the rear, she kept trying to get out and buried the rear a lot further. We can't control everything! That front end would have been untouched...

 

^^Those pics are why when you are starting to get stuck, you make that split second decision: "try to get out, or risk getting even more burried". ESPICIALLY in a 2wd.

I've had some MAJOR stuckage before.......involving a hill, ice on top of asphalt, thick *** snow on top of the ice, and a layer of ice on top of that. 6hrs later with a shovel and a buddy with a winch and chainsaw, i was out.


I much rather get pulled from the back....nice hitch.

I've gotten yanked out via front crossmember as well.

Katie, take your valence off and put towhooks on so you can have towhooks. OR cut your valence so you can use the towhooks. Still not a good location anyway. I plan on cutting mine up(even though it's barely tweaked), welding in a piece of channel and gusset it to the frame. SHOULDn't move. On that piece of channel, will be chunks of 1" thick plate sticking out of the hole in the bumper, with 3/4" holes for the 3/4" shackle. SHOULD be plenty strong, but we'll see.

 

Damn that crossmember is screwed haha.

I barely glanced at it the first time i read the thread but going back and looking its not pretty at all.

If your going to wheel a 2wd might as well put a hitch in the front and do it right.