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  #1  
Old 04-21-2009
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Recent carnage

Ok, its been a while since my last trip, but heres the carnage pics.

The pass. hub wouldn't lock in.. heres why. I never really though about it since the mile markers worked, but it got too worn down for the warns to grab.

what it looked like

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what its supposed to look like

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sooo i thought that was it.. yea ok. not possible right guys?

yep.. not possible, I got home and took the driver hub off to take a look see.. see if there was still grease in there, water etc, andddd this is what i see.

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the inner warn hub, thats supposed to come out in one piece.. came out in 3 and a billion little pieces.

it didnt stop working though, and it still unlocked for the drive home. I had no idea it was broken

anddd $way-too-much in brackets and rod ends. then $100 in Grade 8 bolts... ugh
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Old 04-21-2009
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99ranger4x4: Official R-F axle and hub torture tester.
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Old 04-21-2009
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Crazy man, build it break it and make it better though
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Old 04-21-2009
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Originally Posted by RangerMuse View Post
Crazy man, build it break it and make it better though
I wish. it needs to happen!
I think i have a few people willing to pay $600 for my front axle.. and i can probably find a D60 for somewhere in there, maybe 7-800.. but then i need to pay for brakes, bearings, spring perches to just drive.. possibly more tube to redo the tie rod.

and that adds up.. QUICK.
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  #5  
Old 04-21-2009
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Originally Posted by jeweler54 View Post
99ranger4x4: Official R-F axle and hub torture tester.
"Send me **** if you want to know if it'll break"
haha
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Old 04-21-2009
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im diggin the last pic! do work!
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  #7  
Old 04-21-2009
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Use stover locking nuts. Do not use a regular nut with lock-washer.
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Old 04-21-2009
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Originally Posted by 034x4 View Post
Use stover locking nuts. Do not use a regular nut with lock-washer.
Yeah but use a regular nut during build and setup, because those others tear the threads up as you use them, plus they are harder to put on and off. I wouldnt think it would matter if you used lock tite on the nuts as well.
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Old 04-21-2009
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stover nuts are crimped so they dont back off. once you are putting it all together for the final build, i would use those...

hurry up and buy your 60 so we can go wheelin again
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Old 04-21-2009
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Those hubs were beat up.

Glad you got the new ones on stand by.
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Old 04-21-2009
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I can't say I'm surprised...
I mean you're running a spool up front, that's going to happen, lol.

But it looks like there is some fun stuff in the last pic.
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Old 04-21-2009
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Originally Posted by zabeard View Post
im diggin the last pic! do work!

$$ I'm still debating on weather i want to go with coils on the 44 I really want the leaves gone, but idk if I'm willing to spend any more money on it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 034x4 View Post
Use stover locking nuts. Do not use a regular nut with lock-washer.
can i get those at Home Depot? haha

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Originally Posted by shadow905 View Post
stover nuts are crimped so they dont back off. once you are putting it all together for the final build, i would use those...

hurry up and buy your 60 so we can go wheelin again
I can wheel now i just don't want to. Find me a 60 at a good price and we'll see if I can't break it too

wanna hit Spring creek this summer?

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Those hubs were beat up.

Glad you got the new ones on stand by.
i didn't :(
premiums do have a lifetime warranty though
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Old 04-21-2009
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just stay with your leaf springs and fix your steering. maybe get some different springs with a bit of lift so youll get more uptravel. and move your shackle to the back. its kinda death waiting to happen with it being up front.

but ill look and see what i can find for a 60. ywhat gear ratio you runnin?
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Old 04-21-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianjwilson View Post
I can't say I'm surprised...
I mean you're running a spool up front, that's going to happen, lol.

But it looks like there is some fun stuff in the last pic.
i just hate being open.. the spool makes everything easier hah
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Old 04-21-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shadow905 View Post
just stay with your leaf springs and fix your steering. maybe get some different springs with a bit of lift so youll get more uptravel. and move your shackle to the back. its kinda death waiting to happen with it being up front.

but ill look and see what i can find for a 60. ywhat gear ratio you runnin?
5.13s, ratio doesn't matter, and i don't REALLY need a king pin, i doubt I'll have any issues with a BJ 60. except high steer with a kingpin is easy. hmmm
I have the bulk of the brackets i need for coils, i just need more rod ends, a few link mounts, coils and some more tube.. then time, and an axle My buddy is already playing with the link calc for me.

Last edited by 99ranger4x4; 04-21-2009 at 09:35 AM.
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Old 04-21-2009
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hah nice hub, that thing was warn to ****
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Old 04-21-2009
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I am up for spring creek this summer. Just let me know.
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Old 04-21-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zabeard View Post
Yeah but use a regular nut during build and setup, because those others tear the threads up as you use them, plus they are harder to put on and off. I wouldnt think it would matter if you used lock tite on the nuts as well.


they tear the threads?? sounds like a really crappy design!
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  #19  
Old 04-21-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roach2004 View Post
I am up for spring creek this summer. Just let me know.
haha will do. do you have room for me and a buddy to crash possibly?

Quote:
Originally Posted by stRanger View Post
they tear the threads?? sounds like a really crappy design!
not really, it would create a lot more resistance to backing off.

Last edited by 99ranger4x4; 04-21-2009 at 11:53 AM.
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