1996 2.3 problems around 40 to 60 mph - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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Old 11-23-2014
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1996 2.3 problems around 40 to 60 mph

I just got a 1996 2.3 ranger about 2 weeks ago and I'm having problems around 40 to 60 mph . Its kindof starts jerking like its not geting fuel or something . I've changed spark plugs,spark plugs wires ,fuel filter,ignition coils,camshaft positioning sensor,Idle control valve,egr valve,cleaned the mass air flow sensor.I've put fuel treatments in it a few times. anyone have any tips or ideas of what I should do next ?
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Old 11-24-2014
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Wow, you have replaced alot of stuff............stop that, lol.

How does it run at 70mph?
Better than at 40-60mph?

Is it a manual or automatic trans?

The most obvious is dirty fuel filter, you notice that first at highway speeds, but you have changed that.
So next most obvious would be exhaust restriction, again this first shows itself at highway speeds, Cats and mufflers can collapse inside, this restricts exhaust flow, as RPM/load increases you hit a point where back pressure in the exhaust system prevents new air/fuel mix from coming in so acts like it is fuel starved.......because it is.

Vacuum gauge can be used to test for this or feel tail pipe while someone revs the engine, you will notice a lag in tailpipe pressure at higher RPMs or no increase in exhaust pressure at a certain point.

Next, '96 still has a Fuel Pressure Regulator(FPR) on the fuel rail, it is vacuum operated.
A gas engine has high vacuum at low RPMs so FPR is sucked open and extra fuel is sent back to the fuel tank.
When RPMs are high, vacuum is low so FPR closes leaving more fuel pressure for the injectors, if FPR is sticking open then fuel pressure drops at higher RPMs starving engine for fuel.
Fuel pressure gauge would be used to check this.

All of these would get worse above 60mph not better.
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Old 11-25-2014
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its automatic . most of my repairs was needed. I was asked if it happens when my rpms hits around 3000 or 4000 and I'm not sure because I don't have a rpm gauge. but sounds about right to me. it acts up any where between 35 and 65 . If I give it alot of gas and stay on it it won't do it and passed 70 I'm fine. if I drive slow it wont act up. it is throwing codes. code p1131 code definition Lack of Ho2s-11 switching,sensor Indicates lean (Bank 1) code p0340 Camshaft position sensor circuit malfunction (Bank 1) code p1443 EVAP Purge Flow System Malfunction code p0125 Insufficient coolant temperature for closed loop fuel control

I changed the thermostat and got some radiator cleaner then I flushed the radiator and put some new antifreeze in it.

I got some new vacuum hose and changed out anything and everthing I could. I did a fuel injector test today and they all sound the same and good.

had to adjust the idling down a little bit , it was idling a little high.

replaced the purge flow sensor/solenoid assembly and got a new gas cap .the old gas cap had seen better days.
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Old 11-26-2014
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You can't adjust the idle on a fuel injected vehicle???
All fuel injected vehicles use an IAC(idle air control) valve, this allows the computer to set the idle.
The screw on the throttle linkage is for adjusting the voltage on the TPS(throttle position sensor), it should be .7-.9volts with throttle closed.

If you have used it as an idle adjustment that will throw things off for computer.
Cold engine should idle at 1,100, warmed up 800 for automatic.

New thermostat should be a 192 or 195degF
180 is the wrong one.

Last edited by RonD; 11-26-2014 at 11:33 AM.
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Old 11-26-2014
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Ok.
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