Hey guys Ive been running this ranger for a while knowing its on its last leg, and after getting compression of 120 on cylinder 4, 30 on cylinder 3, 15 on cylinder 2 and 80 on cylinder 1(not to mention adding oil in the cylinders and re-checking all the compression went up at least 20psi and cylinder 1 went up 50 psi) I've decided that replacing the engine will be the cheapest easiest way out. I found an engine out of 97 that looked good with no leaks and had around 120-140 psi in every cylinder, so I got the engine ready to pull out but before i pull the engine and swap it in I'd like to make sure that it will work in my 92 without swapping the wiring harness and computer. I'm going to use the 92 intake, vacuums, exhaust and what not but the main thing I think are going to be crank sensor and major things like that. thanks guys any input and help is much appreciated.

 

It is the same motor and will be a direct swap. Here is the info on it. The compression ratios are different, and a few other things but it will be a direct swap.

2.3L (1989 - 1997)

Displacement 140 CID
Type Single Over Head Cam
Bore x Stroke 3.780 x 3.126 inches
Compression Ratio
9.0:1 (1983 - 1988)
9.2:1 (1990 - 1993)
9.4:1 (1994 - 1997)
Fuel System
Carburetor (1983 - 1984)
Multipot Fuel Injection (MFI) (1985 - 1997)
Fuel Pressure
5 - 7 psi (1983 - 1984)
30 - 40 psi (1985 - 1997)
Horsepower
79hp @ 3800 RPM (1983 - 1985) Manual
82hp @ 4200 RPM (1983 - 1985) Auto
90hp @ 4000 RPM (1986 - 1988)
100hp @ 4600 RPM (1989 - 1995)
112hp @ 4800 RPM (1996 - 1997)
Torque
124 @ 2200 RPM (1983 - 1985) Manual
126 @ 2200 RPM (1983 - 1985) Auto
130 @ 1800 RPM (1986 - 1988)
133 @ 2600 RPM (1989 - 1995)
135 @ 2400 RPM (1996 - 1997)
Oil Pressure 40 - 60 psi @ 2000 RPM
Tune Up

Spark Plug
AWSF-44C (1984 - 1990)
AWSR-32PP (1993 - 1995)
AWSR-32F (1996 - 1997)
Spark Plug Gap 0.044
Ignition Timing 10 degrees BTDC
Firing Order 1-3-4-2
Distributor Rotation Clockwise
Capacities

Oil Capacity With Filter Change 5 Quarts
Cooling System (Quarts) W/AC- 7.2 / W/O AC 6.5
Torque Specifications

Cylinder Head
Torque in 2 steps [1st (50 - 60 ft-lbs), 2nd (80 - 90 ft-lbs)] (1989 - 1995)
51 ft-lbs (1996 - 1997)
Main Bearing Bolts Torque in 2 steps [1st (50 - 60 ft-lbs), 2nd (80 - 90 ft-lbs)]
Rod Bearing Bolts Torque in 2 steps [1st (25 - 30 ft-lbs), 2nd (30 - 36 ft-lbs)]
Crankshaft Pulley Bolts 100 - 120 ft-lbs
Flywheel to Crankshaft Bolts 56 - 64 ft-lbs
Intake Manifold Torque in 2 steps [1st (5 - 7 ft-lbs), 2nd (14 - 21 ft-lbs)]
Exhaust Manifold Torque in 2 steps [1st (5 - 7 ft-lbs), 2nd (16 - 23 ft-lbs)]

 

they use different intake manifold set ups and different injectors, and i noticed a coolant sending unit was plugged on the new one but I'l just swap the plug for the sensor. I just noticed the crank position sensor is setup different but wanna make sure it can be changed over to the old style.
Thanks tho

 

you might run into some issues...the 92 is OBDI and the 97 will be OBDII...that very well might present a problem

 

yes but the OBDI and OBDII deal mostly with the intake and injection, but as long as the engine blocks are set up the same all the old parts should swap over. No one has done a swap like this before?

 

Forgot about that. lol

 

well I guess il pull the old engine and get the 97 engine tomorrow since I got it all unbolted and ready to come out today but the credit card machines were down. I'l see every difference when I set them next to each other and I'l let you guys know

 

after some further research ive learned that the engine block itself is nearly the same the only problem is the crank position sensor. You have to use your old crank pully and timing cover and mark holes to mount your crank sensor, then drill and tap. its easiest to use your old intake also and use your original wire harness and everything will work. . . hopefully. I'm going to try to get most that done today, but I still have to do a few things to get the old motor out.

 

If the engine block is the same, you can swap over your OBDI stuff and run it as OBDI. OBDII just has added sensors that monitor more things, aka more problems.

PS, do some research and you actually may be able to use the 97' crank position sensor. As long as the timing marks are the same, and the read outs are the same you won't have to mess with drilling and tapping. Just make sure you rewire it correctly to the ECU.

 

will it work!

 

Welcome to the forum

No, it will not work

1994 and earlier Ranger 4cyl engines can not be swapped into 1995 or later Rangers, and visa versa
Front of the engine is different

 

Did it work I'm looking at doing this exact swap
well except mine is a 93 not 92

 

1989 - 1994 Ranger 2.3l engines used a Hall Effect Crank sensor attached to front cover of the engine behind timing belt
1995-1997 2.3l used a different front cover so no place to attach crank sensor
Crank sensor on these was on timing belt cover, and a VR sensor, 1989-1994 computer can't use that signal, 1995-1997 computer can't use Hall Effect signal

There is no "wiring" fix for these two different kinds of sensors

1989 to 1994 computer is 60 wire(OBD1)
1995 to 1997 computer is 104 wire(OBD2)
So computer swap would require wiring changes

 

Why couldn't I use my timing cover then I want the 97 for the block I'll use all my alternator etc I mean for 100 I'll figure something out

 

 

I am currently attempting to swap a 97 2.3L engine into my 89. I will be reusing the old intake and exhaust manifold and from the 89. I am curious to know if you have figured out the Crank Sensor issue......I will be sticking with OBD1. Maybe if it is possible.

 

Hello guys!

Right now I'm on the process of swapping my 93 engine with a 97 engine and got this on my way, did any of you solved the issue about the crank sensor?
Any Pics from the project?
Thanks in Advance

 

You are 100% WRONG! I swapped a 1999 2.5 into my 1993 back in 2001.

How with the OBD-I and OBD-II differences? Easy. The ONLY difference that can't be overcome by swapping parts is the hall effect crankshaft position sensor. Which is held on by 2 bolts behind the harmonic balancer. Carefully mark holes and drill/tap holes and use the balancer from the 2.3. my 2.5 came from a 99 donor, and only had 36k miles on it. Ran for 10+ years until I sold it. The same could be done for a 95+ 23/2.5 into a 93/94 truck.

Use all accessories/intake exhaust etc. From the 93/94.

 

Well not 100% wrong, lol

Just not Plug and Play, which was the point of my statement in response to the one and only post by licksumpink

OBD1 or OBD2 doesn't matter, that's a computer and wiring issue, but in this case Ford changed 2.3l to VR Crank sensor when they changed to newer OBD2 computer in 1995
So you needed to do the swap of crank sensor types

"Carefully mark holes and drill/tap holes and use the balancer from the 2.3"
This would be beyond most DIYers looking to just swap what they think are "matching engines"
So I would always say "no, you can't", for the 1989-1994 2.3l swap to 1995-2001 2.3l/2.5l swaps either way


You CAN do pretty much any engine swap you want, if you have the space in the engine bay and the skills to work around any differences
Which you obviously do