97 died on highway and now wont start! - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #1  
Old 02-13-2011
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97 died on highway and now wont start!

Hey guys, was driving to work and truck died on the highway. it was pretty low on fuel, so we put in a jerry can and now it will not run.

1. I can hear the fuel pump cycling on ACC, but is it working?
2. Spark plugs were pretty brutal, changed them all and I have spark on all 4 (confirmed)

What else could it be? do these fuel pumps tend to go on these trucks?, It is pretty hi-mileage @ 301,000 km's. Thanks for the help!
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Old 02-13-2011
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turn the key to the run position 2 or 3 times to push the fuel to the eng. then check the shrader valve on the fuel line near the injecters. you should have good fuel pressure. if not then check your filter. if the filter is good then the sock in the tank could be cloged up.

if you have 300k on the origional pump then count your blessings and put in a new pump. most don't last past 200k
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Old 02-14-2011
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Could be that your timing belt snapped. Same thing happened to mine when my belt snapped not too long ago. Give it a look.
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Old 02-14-2011
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It still turns over fine.

Do you have to drop the tank to change these fuel pumps?
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Old 02-15-2011
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yeah or take the bed off probly easier just to take the be off then screw around with the droping the tank.
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Old 02-15-2011
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The fuel pump does not run with the key in the ACC position.Just the RUN position.
Did you hit any hard bumps in the road ?
Check the inertia cutoff switch , usually located in the passenger side footwell.
Also check the connections to it.
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Old 02-15-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OTRtech View Post
The fuel pump does not run with the key in the ACC position.Just the RUN position.
Did you hit any hard bumps in the road ?
Check the inertia cutoff switch , usually located in the passenger side footwell.
Also check the connections to it.
x2 on the inertia switch, I don't know how touchy it is in the older trucks but I have had a passenger kick mine about 5 different times. Sucks when the truck starts sputtering at 65mph for no apparent reason. Otherwise, I will have to agree on the bad fuel pump.
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Old 02-17-2011
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the fastest way to change the pump is pull the bed. 6 bolts / unplug the lights and unhook the filler neck. also remove the tailgate. move the bed back about 3 feet and you can get to the top of the tank. if you drop the tank you will most likely get a gas bath.
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Old 02-20-2011
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Hi All, My 1999 died on highway a few weeks ago and I've been investigating possible causes. First thing was fuel system thinking maybe a bad fuel pump. I was contemplating pulling tank or bed off, but wanted to check fuel pressure first. I purchased a fuel pressure gage kit ($50) to check fuel rail pressure (there is a convenient Schreader (bicycle type valve) connector in engine compartment). When connected and ignition switch in 'Run', fuel rail presure was 40 psi, right where it should be. This also elimenated anu electrical problem or rollover switch malfunction. When I went to 'start', gage needle pulsed between 40-45 psi. This indicated fuel injectors were operating, otherwise pressure would remain steady. So fuel pump is OK! No tank or bed removal.

On an earlier posting, 'dizturbe3d' suggested a timing belt failure. How to check this? If timing belt is broken, valves are not cycling when engine is cranking. Since the engine is basically a compressor, i.e., air comes into engine and is exhausted WHEN the valve are properly lined up, which is the function of the timing belt. With a broken timing belt, air comes into engine from intake AND exhaust, depending on how valves are positioned at each cylinder. There is no net air flow through engine. To check this, I put a plastic bag on the exhaust pipe and with a rubber band to hold in place. Upon cranking engine, bag inflated and deflated slightly in a cyclical manner (there should not be air going into exhaust). If valves were working properly, bag would have filled and burst. End of investigation.
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Old 02-21-2011
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depending on the style of engine, there's a much easier way to check for a snapped timing belt. Just look behind the timing belt cover at the top of the engine, and you'll see the cog wheel that turns the camshaft. While looking at it, have someone crank the engine over. If it turns, all's well with the belt. If it doesn't turn, the belt's broken.
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Old 02-21-2011
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Wirelessly posted

Quote:
Originally Posted by OTRtech
The fuel pump does not run with the key in the ACC position.Just the RUN position.
Did you hit any hard bumps in the road ?
Check the inertia cutoff switch , usually located in the passenger side footwell.
Also check the connections to it.
inertia switches are common killers. Sometimes they get stuck. So smack off. Then back on and you should ber good
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  #12  
Old 02-22-2011
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Well I changed the fuel pump, no dide. Broken timing belt it is!
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Old 02-24-2011
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I looked behind the timing belt cover like 'notpunkdesign' suggested and sure enough I could see timing belt. It was loose and I could move it w/ my finger - clearly broken. Good tip. To replace belt, do I need to disconnect A/C, or will it move out of way enough to get covers off?
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Old 02-25-2011
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i could get my covers covers off when the ac was still there, but it was blown and since i've survived two summers without it i just took it out instead of replacing the commpressor
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