99 2.5 Cuts out when out into D & R
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Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 22
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From: NC
99 2.5 Cuts out when out into D & R
My 99 2.5 2wd cuts out when I put it into Drive or Reverse. It’s an automatic, it will start fine when it’s cold and it will be fine driving. Then if I put it in park with the engine running after a short time and then go into D or R it will cut out and the battery light will turn on. After that happens it seems like it has a hard time turning over and will after a few seconds or won’t turn over at all. Luckily after about 5 min or so it will eventually get started and I can drive away if I leave it be for a bit. It’s happened 3 times so far, in 46 miles of driving. I changed the oil, flushed the radiator, and replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter 46 miles before hand. It had been sitting in the driveway for about 3 months with a bad fuel pump prior because I was too busy with my Silverado and rx-8 to fix it at the time. It runs a P0133 & P0401 code. lastly my Stanley battery charger says it’s alternator is at a lower current/voltage than what it should be, although it says the same thing about my Silverado and my dad’s escape even though those alternators are 5 and 8 years old respectively. Any help is appreciated, thank y’all.
Welcome to the forum
Battery light should come on when key is on and engine is off, and might flicker and then come on as engine RPMs drop below 600 and it stalls, this is normal
Key off battery test
12.8volts is a new battery
12.5v is a 3 year old battery
12.3v is a 5/6 yer old battery and time to shop for battery sales
12.2v or lower is a failing battery
Engine running test for battery and alternator
14.3-14.8v just after startup, alternator is working
13.5-13.8v after 5min or so of running, voltage regulator is working
IF voltage doesn't drop down then battery tested bad, see above, or voltage regulator is bad, stuck, so it will ruin the battery, overcharge it
If starter motor won't turn engine fast enough or at all it could be failing battery cables or failing starter motor(ASSUMING BATTERY TESTED OK), its drawing too many amps when its warm, i.e. after driving awhile engine heats up starter motor
You can do a load test on battery and starter
Warm up the engine by driving it 10-15min
Shut off engine
Unplug the 2 coil pack wires, or pull out the Fuel pump Relay in the engine fuse box, you want a No Start
Put volt meter on battery, should see 12.3v or higher
Have someone crank engine while you watch voltage, should stay above 9.8volts, above 10v is best, if it drops lower then either battery is done or starter motor is
Once the above is tested
On cold start engine should idle higher, 1,100 rpms is normal
Then as engine warms up idle will drop, to about 800
This is done by the computer using the IAC Valve
The computer also has a sensor on the transmissions shifter, the DTR sensor
When computer gets the signal from DTR that transmission is in R or D it will use the IAC Valve to bump up the RPMs for "in gear" idle, this is instant, if this doesn't happen then engine could stall.
The computer also needs the ECT(engine coolant temp) sensor, to tell it when engine is cold, high idle, and when engine is warm, lower idle
P0133 - 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
This mean it may be time to change the O2 sensor on the exhaust pipe closest to the engine
O2 sensors use a chemical reaction to detect oxygen in the exhaust, and they do run out of chemicals, generally O2s last 100k-150k miles
P0401 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected
This means the EGR tube may be getting plugged up or the EGR Valve, might be time to clean them
Can also be DPFE sensor is starting to fail, not uncommon
There are two hoses that run from EGR tube to the DPFE sensor, these have exhaust inside, exhaust pressure, that the DPFE sensor uses to tell if EGR valve is opening and by how much
Make sure hoses are in good condition, no cracks or breaks
Battery light should come on when key is on and engine is off, and might flicker and then come on as engine RPMs drop below 600 and it stalls, this is normal
Key off battery test
12.8volts is a new battery
12.5v is a 3 year old battery
12.3v is a 5/6 yer old battery and time to shop for battery sales
12.2v or lower is a failing battery
Engine running test for battery and alternator
14.3-14.8v just after startup, alternator is working
13.5-13.8v after 5min or so of running, voltage regulator is working
IF voltage doesn't drop down then battery tested bad, see above, or voltage regulator is bad, stuck, so it will ruin the battery, overcharge it
If starter motor won't turn engine fast enough or at all it could be failing battery cables or failing starter motor(ASSUMING BATTERY TESTED OK), its drawing too many amps when its warm, i.e. after driving awhile engine heats up starter motor
You can do a load test on battery and starter
Warm up the engine by driving it 10-15min
Shut off engine
Unplug the 2 coil pack wires, or pull out the Fuel pump Relay in the engine fuse box, you want a No Start
Put volt meter on battery, should see 12.3v or higher
Have someone crank engine while you watch voltage, should stay above 9.8volts, above 10v is best, if it drops lower then either battery is done or starter motor is
Once the above is tested
On cold start engine should idle higher, 1,100 rpms is normal
Then as engine warms up idle will drop, to about 800
This is done by the computer using the IAC Valve
The computer also has a sensor on the transmissions shifter, the DTR sensor
When computer gets the signal from DTR that transmission is in R or D it will use the IAC Valve to bump up the RPMs for "in gear" idle, this is instant, if this doesn't happen then engine could stall.
The computer also needs the ECT(engine coolant temp) sensor, to tell it when engine is cold, high idle, and when engine is warm, lower idle
P0133 - 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
This mean it may be time to change the O2 sensor on the exhaust pipe closest to the engine
O2 sensors use a chemical reaction to detect oxygen in the exhaust, and they do run out of chemicals, generally O2s last 100k-150k miles
P0401 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected
This means the EGR tube may be getting plugged up or the EGR Valve, might be time to clean them
Can also be DPFE sensor is starting to fail, not uncommon
There are two hoses that run from EGR tube to the DPFE sensor, these have exhaust inside, exhaust pressure, that the DPFE sensor uses to tell if EGR valve is opening and by how much
Make sure hoses are in good condition, no cracks or breaks
Last edited by RonD; Feb 20, 2020 at 10:47 AM.
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 22
Likes: 1
From: NC
Welcome to the forum
Battery light should come on when key is on and engine is off, and might flicker and then come on as engine RPMs drop below 600 and it stalls, this is normal
Key off battery test
12.8volts is a new battery
12.5v is a 3 year old battery
12.3v is a 5/6 yer old battery and time to shop for battery sales
12.2v or lower is a failing battery
Engine running test for battery and alternator
14.3-14.8v just after startup, alternator is working
13.5-13.8v after 5min or so of running, voltage regulator is working
IF voltage doesn't drop down then battery tested bad, see above, or voltage regulator is bad, stuck, so it will ruin the battery, overcharge it
If starter motor won't turn engine fast enough or at all it could be failing battery cables or failing starter motor(ASSUMING BATTERY TESTED OK), its drawing too many amps when its warm, i.e. after driving awhile engine heats up starter motor
You can do a load test on battery and starter
Warm up the engine by driving it 10-15min
Shut off engine
Unplug the 2 coil pack wires, or pull out the Fuel pump Relay in the engine fuse box, you want a No Start
Put volt meter on battery, should see 12.3v or higher
Have someone crank engine while you watch voltage, should stay above 9.8volts, above 10v is best, if it drops lower then either battery is done or starter motor is
Once the above is tested
On cold start engine should idle higher, 1,100 rpms is normal
Then as engine warms up idle will drop, to about 800
This is done by the computer using the IAC Valve
The computer also has a sensor on the transmissions shifter, the DTR sensor
When computer gets the signal from DTR that transmission is in R or D it will use the IAC Valve to bump up the RPMs for "in gear" idle, this is instant, if this doesn't happen then engine could stall.
The computer also needs the ECT(engine coolant temp) sensor, to tell it when engine is cold, high idle, and when engine is warm, lower idle
P0133 - 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
This mean it may be time to change the O2 sensor on the exhaust pipe closest to the engine
O2 sensors use a chemical reaction to detect oxygen in the exhaust, and they do run out of chemicals, generally O2s last 100k-150k miles
P0401 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected
This means the EGR tube may be getting plugged up or the EGR Valve, might be time to clean them
Can also be DPFE sensor is starting to fail, not uncommon
There are two hoses that run from EGR tube to the DPFE sensor, these have exhaust inside, exhaust pressure, that the DPFE sensor uses to tell if EGR valve is opening and by how much
Make sure hoses are in good condition, no cracks or breaks
Battery light should come on when key is on and engine is off, and might flicker and then come on as engine RPMs drop below 600 and it stalls, this is normal
Key off battery test
12.8volts is a new battery
12.5v is a 3 year old battery
12.3v is a 5/6 yer old battery and time to shop for battery sales
12.2v or lower is a failing battery
Engine running test for battery and alternator
14.3-14.8v just after startup, alternator is working
13.5-13.8v after 5min or so of running, voltage regulator is working
IF voltage doesn't drop down then battery tested bad, see above, or voltage regulator is bad, stuck, so it will ruin the battery, overcharge it
If starter motor won't turn engine fast enough or at all it could be failing battery cables or failing starter motor(ASSUMING BATTERY TESTED OK), its drawing too many amps when its warm, i.e. after driving awhile engine heats up starter motor
You can do a load test on battery and starter
Warm up the engine by driving it 10-15min
Shut off engine
Unplug the 2 coil pack wires, or pull out the Fuel pump Relay in the engine fuse box, you want a No Start
Put volt meter on battery, should see 12.3v or higher
Have someone crank engine while you watch voltage, should stay above 9.8volts, above 10v is best, if it drops lower then either battery is done or starter motor is
Once the above is tested
On cold start engine should idle higher, 1,100 rpms is normal
Then as engine warms up idle will drop, to about 800
This is done by the computer using the IAC Valve
The computer also has a sensor on the transmissions shifter, the DTR sensor
When computer gets the signal from DTR that transmission is in R or D it will use the IAC Valve to bump up the RPMs for "in gear" idle, this is instant, if this doesn't happen then engine could stall.
The computer also needs the ECT(engine coolant temp) sensor, to tell it when engine is cold, high idle, and when engine is warm, lower idle
P0133 - 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
This mean it may be time to change the O2 sensor on the exhaust pipe closest to the engine
O2 sensors use a chemical reaction to detect oxygen in the exhaust, and they do run out of chemicals, generally O2s last 100k-150k miles
P0401 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected
This means the EGR tube may be getting plugged up or the EGR Valve, might be time to clean them
Can also be DPFE sensor is starting to fail, not uncommon
There are two hoses that run from EGR tube to the DPFE sensor, these have exhaust inside, exhaust pressure, that the DPFE sensor uses to tell if EGR valve is opening and by how much
Make sure hoses are in good condition, no cracks or breaks
i tested the battery before I started it and it was at 12.4 V. The battery is only from 11/19 and it’s a duralast gold. Then I cranked it left it running for about 3-4 min and tested it again at 14.1V. I can’t tell exactly what my rpms are at since I don’t have a tachometer, but when It does shift into D or R without cutting out it’ll be a hard shift and it feels like the rpms shoot up a bit. You have me thinking it may be the dtr sensor and /or iac valve. I’m going to check those out next
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