Any last suggestions on misfire rich symptoms 2.3 lima
Any last suggestions on misfire rich symptoms 2.3 lima
1994 2.3 runs drives lack power and slight misfire
carboned plugs on cyl#3 both sides of block
Tested maf idle at 1.25v smooth increase decrease in voltage tested coils tested dpfe tested vaccum with smoker new pcv new wires plugs gapped at .44
Swapped a 93 2.3L 5 speed pcm just to see
New temp sender and sensor new complete egr vaccum line swap also before smoke tested .
No check engine light comes on either.
Can't get a good compression test reading the results I'm getting are so wack that it would yield a no start if the values were true .14mm tester adapters don't screw in and seal at the rubber gasket the issue is everyone of the testers I try bind at the crimped fitting end of the test hose where the adapter part is larger then the cylinder plug bore 2.3plugs are long threaded and narrow plugs I'm getting a few turns but at that point just relying on thread seal at that point . One tester I used with the schrader valve left me with 0psi results. The other Pittsburgh harbor freight tester gave me 40psi cyl1 65 psi cyl2 90 psi cyl3 and 105 cyl 4.
Truck would not run on that and if it did it would be next to impossible it runs starts fast no hesitation drives ok just lack power.
Mechanic said then belts do jump teeth and timing off would give them compession results another said it's usually never teeth they break only usually.
Could my ICM be intermittent working I don't see how if cyl 2 is firing caus the ICM controls 2 cyl fire at once if u have one cyl misfire it supposed rule out the icm
carboned plugs on cyl#3 both sides of block
Tested maf idle at 1.25v smooth increase decrease in voltage tested coils tested dpfe tested vaccum with smoker new pcv new wires plugs gapped at .44
Swapped a 93 2.3L 5 speed pcm just to see
New temp sender and sensor new complete egr vaccum line swap also before smoke tested .
No check engine light comes on either.
Can't get a good compression test reading the results I'm getting are so wack that it would yield a no start if the values were true .14mm tester adapters don't screw in and seal at the rubber gasket the issue is everyone of the testers I try bind at the crimped fitting end of the test hose where the adapter part is larger then the cylinder plug bore 2.3plugs are long threaded and narrow plugs I'm getting a few turns but at that point just relying on thread seal at that point . One tester I used with the schrader valve left me with 0psi results. The other Pittsburgh harbor freight tester gave me 40psi cyl1 65 psi cyl2 90 psi cyl3 and 105 cyl 4.
Truck would not run on that and if it did it would be next to impossible it runs starts fast no hesitation drives ok just lack power.
Mechanic said then belts do jump teeth and timing off would give them compession results another said it's usually never teeth they break only usually.
Could my ICM be intermittent working I don't see how if cyl 2 is firing caus the ICM controls 2 cyl fire at once if u have one cyl misfire it supposed rule out the icm
After startup you can unplug either coil pack to test if it and its 4 spark plugs are working, RPMs will drop a bit, but all cylinders should be firing like normal, if you have a miss then spark plug or wire or coil for that side is causing it
1994 and earlier 2.3l's often only used the Exhaust side coil pack for startup, you can test for that, just says its "normal" for that to be the case, ICM only pulsed that coil when RPMs were under 400, after start up both coils and all 8 spark plugs were firing all the time, there is no alternating
1994 and earlier 2.3l's often only used the Exhaust side coil pack for startup, you can test for that, just says its "normal" for that to be the case, ICM only pulsed that coil when RPMs were under 400, after start up both coils and all 8 spark plugs were firing all the time, there is no alternating
After startup you can unplug either coil pack to test if it and its 4 spark plugs are working, RPMs will drop a bit, but all cylinders should be firing like normal, if you have a miss then spark plug or wire or coil for that side is causing it
1994 and earlier 2.3l's often only used the Exhaust side coil pack for startup, you can test for that, just says its "normal" for that to be the case, ICM only pulsed that coil when RPMs were under 400, after start up both coils and all 8 spark plugs were firing all the time, there is no alternating
1994 and earlier 2.3l's often only used the Exhaust side coil pack for startup, you can test for that, just says its "normal" for that to be the case, ICM only pulsed that coil when RPMs were under 400, after start up both coils and all 8 spark plugs were firing all the time, there is no alternating
Only thing every one sees to theorize is open injector "even though" I ohm them all at 14 ohms even and Noid tested power at plug ends and scoped the injectors for ticking . This whole scenario left me with either low compression or open injector . Noone really can tell me wether any sensor other then the mass air can cause the symptoms .I checked signal and resistance to all sensors besides the egr dpfe.
Dpfe sensor would not have anything to do with a dark carboned plug nor would the map or tps or iac or temp sensor . I've ruled out coils plugs wires
Timing belt jumped maybe a tooth if any it starts easily it's just a idle slight shake and def.. some power loss .Maybe it's a bad temp sensor even tho it's new maybe cpk sensor is throwing off the correct cid signal even tho plug wires are in order maybe the cid signal is causing a misfire . I know some smart brains here can narrow this for me these symptoms have had to have happened for others in the last 24 yrs
Last edited by Aaron81; Dec 1, 2018 at 01:46 PM.
Only two tests, unplug each coil pack one at a time, and see if either causes misfire, if this test has been done then what was the result?
Don't care about ohms and amps, been there done that, does really help until you've done other tests.
Vacuum gauge can test compression.
A Vacuum gauge is still one of the best tools you can use on any gasoline engine, easy to use and read, $20.
Engine is a self power air pump, you test a pump by reading pressure, in this case negative pressure
Good read here: Technical Articles: Engine testing with a Vacuum Gauge - at Greg's Engine & Machine
"worn rings" can be skipped timing belt on the 2.3l, also check out incorrect valve timing in tests
"Carb out of adjustment" = injector issue
Partially blocked exhaust can cause low power, test for that with vacuum gauge as well
Don't care about ohms and amps, been there done that, does really help until you've done other tests.
Vacuum gauge can test compression.
A Vacuum gauge is still one of the best tools you can use on any gasoline engine, easy to use and read, $20.
Engine is a self power air pump, you test a pump by reading pressure, in this case negative pressure
Good read here: Technical Articles: Engine testing with a Vacuum Gauge - at Greg's Engine & Machine
"worn rings" can be skipped timing belt on the 2.3l, also check out incorrect valve timing in tests
"Carb out of adjustment" = injector issue
Partially blocked exhaust can cause low power, test for that with vacuum gauge as well
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