SOHC - 2.3L & 2.5L Lima Engines Discussions and Topics specific to the Lima 4 cylinder engines

Just dies when Driving

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Old Jan 27, 2014
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vstar650ca's Avatar
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Just dies when Driving

Hello all ,here is my problem.I have a 94 Ranger 2.3 auto.Has new computer,IAC,Fuel pump and relays,plugs,wires,coils,pcv valve,key cylinder,ignition switch etc.In fact the only sensors I have not replaced is the speed sensor,tps and coolant temp.The truck starts and idles like a champ,but driving down the road for no reason just dies.Still have electrical power and turn key off it fires right back up.You guys got any ideas thanks
 
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Old Jan 27, 2014
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Why did you replace all those things?

Fire?

There only three things that can shut down an engine, spark, fuel, mechanical.
Mechanical failure like a timing belt breaking or spun main bearing would mean it probably wouldn't start again.

Fuel, or lack of it has a distinct failure pattern, engine doesn't stall right away, you lose power but engine chugs on a bit, i.e. starving for gas term.
And a quick restart would probably not happen.

Spark and electrical issues can be a sudden shutdown, but the restart part could be iffy.
But there are a few things that might fit.
There is the EEC relay, when you turn the key to RUN(on), this relay closes and sends 12v to fuel injectors, coil, and fuel pump relay.
If this relay were to pop open engine would die quckly, no power to coil or fuel injectors.
Restart, key off then RUN might reset it closed again.

Less likely but fits is the CKP(crank position) sensor, this is behind the crank pulley, it reads pulses from a wheel on the crankshaft, this sensor tells computer crank is turning so "start the spark", if signal from CKP sensor stops so will spark.
These rarely fail, but not never fail, and it is usually a 100% failure, so restart wouldn't fit, at least I have never run across an intermittent CKP sensor.
Since you had something happen and replaced alot of stuff the wires for the CKP could be the problem.

EDIT:
I think the 1994 2.3l had an ICM(ignition control module), these can be tested, but I would look at the wiring first because loss of power would be more likely for your description.
ICM test, Google: 1994 ranger 2.3l ignition module test.
 

Last edited by RonD; Jan 28, 2014 at 10:50 AM.
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Old Jan 31, 2014
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Hey Ron.I replaced these parts because it was my Dad,s truck who passed away last April and he bought it new.It is kinda of a winter hobby that's worth more to me than money.I didn,t replace those parts because of the stalling ,that is a new thing.I am leaning towards a funky inertia switch but the truck is buried in snow right now.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2014
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Sorry for your loss, I lost my Father in December, never easy.

Inertia switch supplies power to fuel pump, when computer turns the pump on.
So stopping power to fuel pump won't make engine just stop, it would lose power as fuel pressure dropped and eventually die, but it wouldn't be sudden even at highway speeds.
Inertia switch also is not reset by electrical system, it is a mechanical switch, spring and weight, so unless it has corroded connectors I don't see it working again just by turning key off and on again.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2014
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Might be a long shot, but check all the ground connections in the engine bay. I was having similar problems, just die on me while driving, then it would start back up, eventually it started getting worse and worse though, and then started throwing a cel, eventually it was almost undrivable, but I found a loose ground connection along the inner fender well on the driver side, solved my problem. Good luck. I hate trying to track down things like this.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2014
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vstar650ca's Avatar
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Originally Posted by smcasey88
Might be a long shot, but check all the ground connections in the engine bay. I was having similar problems, just die on me while driving, then it would start back up, eventually it started getting worse and worse though, and then started throwing a cel, eventually it was almost undrivable, but I found a loose ground connection along the inner fender well on the driver side, solved my problem. Good luck. I hate trying to track down things like this.
Well I never thought of a bad ground,I will check it out.Thanks "smcasey88"
 
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Old Feb 4, 2014
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Under the hood is a box on the drivers side. It has three (I think) black relays. right next to them is some small blade fuses. The Left 10 amp blade may be arcing out and intermitantly breaking circuit. Pull it out and clean it. You wouldn't imagine the money I spent trying to find the problem.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2014
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Well so far I checked and cleaned all ground connectors which seemed to make it run better,cleaned fuse blades and still stalled.replaced relays and stalled.I then unplugged inertia switch and pig tailed a wire between connectors and it has not stalled.Who knows maybe the switch was way to sensitive time will tell.There is nothing more frustrating,was beginning to think Dad was just screwing with me.I WILL let everyone know when this is solved,so far the inertia switch bypass is working.Thanks everybody for your help.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2014
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Well I hope that is the problem, issues with those inertia switches seem to be pretty common, I had an 03 ranger that I rolled, yet it fired right up, so it did not even work when it was suppose to. good luck! and I will keep my fingers crossed.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2014
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If the inertia switch is not the problem,I will fix once and for all with a 5.0 liter.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2017
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From: TWIN FALLS, Idaho
Recently purchased a 2009 Ranger xlt 4x2, 2.3L. I had been driving about 30 min at 45 to 55 mph with ac on. Normal temp displayed when I heard a sound of a switch of some kind flipping emitting a loud click from under the middle of the dash. Immediately began losing power, taking about 30 to 40 sec's for engine to stop. Set on the side of the road for approx 10 min with 3 attempts to restart engine. On 4th try engine started and continued driving home normally. Does this sound like your experiences with your vehicle?
 
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