Hello all, I got a 2006 Ranger 2.3 L automatic that mysteriously died on me a couple of days ago and I still seemed to be stumped about it. It all started when I was simply pulling out my driveway to go about my day when, as soon as i made it down the road the engine roughly stalled out on me. The RPMS in the dash quickly fell down and required using the throttle to keep the truck alive. After it died out a couple more times trying to get it back home, I instinctively re-keyed the ignition multiple times to get the fuel pump to push more gas to the engine. It worked in turning over the truck initially to get it back home, it drove extremely rough as if it had 2 misfires just shaking all about.

Now that I've had it home for some days I have checked the fuel filter and fuel rail to confirm I was getting 60 psi of gas to the rail, which was confusing as i thought the pump would be going out to begin with, which also explains why I re-keyed it to get it back home. I have checked all spark plugs to be good, sprayed clean all plug wires and IAC sensor TPS sensor ( any sensors up top the engine bay), and also replacing the ignition coil pack. I've checked all fuses for continuity, and tested all relays to be working (clicking) when I put 9v to them via battery.

At this point I haven't done any air/smoke test but that would be next for me today. As for the engine codes I completely messed up when testing for spark and while the the truck was beginning to stall out I decided to take off the ground terminal to the battery, ignorantly deleting the codes I didn't get to write down or memorize. On top of the lean code which was already present, I can only remember a P0420, and a second code about something with a charcoal canister I believe... Its been quite frustrating to solve this problem now that I deleted them and can't get to truck to start to get them back on. I've done the 50/50 test using carb cleaner to the main air duct going to the EGR then the air intake. It'll only start for a moment when I spray it and then die again, it'll just stay cranking and cranking as of now ( regardless of the re-key method now). Any and all help would be appreciated! I am definitely a self taught or "youtube" mechanic, as they call it, and would love to learn what's going on and how to fix this issue. Been working on this ranger since last year doing valve covers, crankcase, new plugs wires, new fuel pump n filter, and entire wheel hub redone. Id like to think i know this truck but I'm completely stumped! Pls send help SOS for my white ranger :(

 

Welcome to the forum

Is there "fuel" in the tank?
I know, but have to ask, I have chased my tail on a few bad gas gauges, you STILL get pressure
And is it actually "fuel"
You can crank the engine a few times then pull out any easy to get at spark plug
Its tip should be WET with "fuel", light it with a match/lighter, should burn fast and bright, its gasoline, if not, "it ain't fuel", probably water in the bottom of the tank, water is heavier that gasoline so settles to the bottom
If spark plug is DRY then injectors are not opening OR no fuel pressure(more on that below)

If you have a fuel pressure tester then drain the pressure by pushing the pin in
Then put on the tester and turn the key on one time
Should see about 10psi
Key off and on again, should be 20psi
You generally get 10psi each time key is turned off and on again, but all the pumps can be different


TPS(throttle sensor), if TPS shorts that can Turn Off the fuel injectors, unplug it and see if engine starts

 

Hey Vet, thanks for the help. I recently just got back from trying to get her started again. Yes I can confirm that gas is indeed getting to the fuel injectors and that I did pull the plugs and found gas at the tips of them. Fuel gauge also did exactly what you said start at 10 psi, then go up to 20 psi then up 50-60 at about the 3rd re-key. Definitely flammable fuel as i lit it to test, safely of coarse. I've been thinking its a fuel problem still but while checking the obII live data just now, while trying to observe the long term fuel trim LTFT for numbers I noticed my spark adv % would stay the same a 9 or 10 even while cranking. Maybe that could lead me to my problem? Only makes sense now to me that its an spark or electric problem right? Although I'm clueless on where to go even with this information.

 

If it starts with 50/50 test then spark is OK, at least for start up, computer will bump up advance to 20 or so after start up

 

Hm Okay thanks for the info then, guess it wouldn't be on the electrical side. I ended getting a new TPS sensor but still no luck getting her on. Fuel is getting to all 4 cylinders, and I've tested the fuel pressure from the rail again to the same consistent results while cranking. So would this be a total air leak issue? I didn't get to remember all of the codes but i do remember something charcoal canister and leaks. Should investigating the charcoal canister all the way to the fuel vapor vent be the way to go? If this system is clogged could it result in what I'm having, if not any of your advice proceeding forward would help.

 

No, the EVAP codes in the P04xx range wouldn't/couldn't cause a no start, code list here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...trouble_codes/

If it starts with 50/50 test then you have spark AND compression

So only missing fuel, but spark plugs were WET and it burned like fuel

That leaves just one thing, "potato up the tail pipe".............blocked exhaust
Pull out the upstream O2 sensor, so exhaust has an escape
Start engine, it will be LOUD!
But if it starts you found the problem, busted up Cat or Muffler

Air Intake could be blocked but less likely since I assume you removed air hose for the 50/50 test

 

Wow thanks for the info vet. Now I think about I never even thought of the exhaust, plus I was already thinking the cat was getting noisy. As if something is rattling in there and I'm pretty sure its from the cat, it sounds completely different and off sync with the motor. Huh I guess I ignored that possibility because I assumed a bad cat wouldn't no start your truck. Ill yank out the 02 sensor, and/or the Cat, tomorrow and see what happens. I'll let ya know on the results, thanks again!

 

Hey again, got some news

Went ahead and pulled the o2 sensor out and after excessive carb clean to the intake to force this truck to wake up, she would start for a little then die out just as before. So I went ahead and checked fuel pressure to be right, checked plugs and found them suspiciously dry. Now with the intake and everything related out, I have the fuel rail and injectors for testing. Surprise Surprise all 4 injectors are completely dead when cranking, even while fuel pressure in the rail is still holding. Now what's weird is I've already replaced only one of these injectors, so assuming all just went bad would be ignorant, no? Is there any testing with a meter I can do to the Injector connectors while cranking, or something of that nature? Again, not very smart at testing and electrical but other than inspecting the harness going back, any testing that can be done?