Well, we'll see. I've been driving pretty hard and so far no problems and the pins aren't even bending.

Regardless of the hitch pin size you cited, in the front, the front sway bar link itself (the long bolt) is thinner than either of those bolts you cited as to why you were concerned with the pin size.

I too, have those same questions, but I decided to try it. If your read my first post on this you'll see I did not recommend this to anyone -- I stated that I'm just trying this.

I even had a minor accident that involved quite a bit of stress on the front end yesterday. I hit some leaves on a turn, fishtailed and pendulum-ed back and forth and just as I got it under control I was off the edge of the road and took out a mailbox post that was 2" pipe embedded in concrete. Tore the concrete ball out the ground and spun me right around, bouncing pretty good in the process.

The sway bar links and pins are undamaged on inspection. I'm still falling short of recommending this, but it does seem to be working fine.

I used the highlift, and a towstrap and structural girder as an anchor to bend the bumper back into shape on the truck. That was the only damage fortunately and except for a 2" radius dent in the front of the bumper, there's no damage.

And the type of quick disconnect you're proposing is done all the time in the jeep world. I've seen several made like you describe.

 

Not a problem at all. I was just pointing out that mine is not a BII bar - which is the picture that was requested in the previous post.

 

The BII bar is 1" diameter? That's pretty heavy duty!

 

hey bob, you able to make another set of those sway bar links? or help point me in the right direction on getting a set made?


also, any have a rear disconnect style to these:

or at least have the site that sell these? i wonder if they can make a custom length

 

is this the frankensiten thing again D... that didnt work to well last time

 

[lights torches while calling together mob] No, it didn't...

 

I don't want to make any more like that - as stated in my post, I feel that they should be made of heavier material. It was just an experiment to try the concept.


Those are made by Warrior Products. They have some model-specific disconnects but they also make universal versions in several lengths and with either posts or studs at either end. There are straight and also offset versions like the ones shown in your picture. Their listings cater mostly to Jeeps with a few other make/models thrown in. Nothing is listed for a Ranger. Also, their stupid site has black printing on black background for some of the universal listings. I told them about it a month or two ago and they didn't fix it.

I called Warrior and it sounds like the 8" stud-to-stud version is correct for a 98+ Edge, Trailhead and 4x4 with stock suspension. As a matter of fact, that is exactly what is listed on some sites as the correct ones for 95-01 Explorers. P/N WAR85203. I haven't done a test fit on these, so if you order them, you are the guinea pig.


Here are a couple of sources for P/N WAR85203. You can Google the part number for more:
http://www.tellico4x4.com/catalog/pr...18b6c72bc9e895
http://www.rubicon4x4.com/catalog/wa...e-p-15170.html
Don't be fooled by the eye-to-eye style in the generic pictures. This part number is actually stud-to-stud (post-to-post):

Some sites also show a rear disconnect for Explorers. This may fit but maybe not. The rear swaybar layout on an Explorer is completely different from a Ranger:
http://www.rubicon4x4.com/catalog/wa...r-p-15168.html

 

Here's a photo of some disconnects on a Ranger. These may or may not actually be the Warrior ones but they are very similar.

If you use this style disconnect on both sides, you would also need to rig up something to hold the bar up off of the the rods and their accordion boots. Shouldn't be too hard.

 

What's interesting is that when I disconnect one side, I can't get the bar to hit the tie rod. I'm disconnecting only one side when I do it. But then again, when mine come off EVERYTHING comes off and there are no pieces left on the bar and lower arm to contact things.

Those disconnects are more or less like mine -- the pin you put in is taking the force.

 

My comment was for those disconnecting both sides as intended with the commercial disconnect pairs

The clearance might be acceptable with only one side disconnected. I checked my truck and at full steering lock, with one wheel stuffed and the other extended, it's a bit too close for my comfort level even with just one side disconnected.

 

That's exactly what I'm trying to prevent from incorporating into my disconnect ideas. Since I work in a Tungsten Carbide production facility as a Quality Engineer, I've learned quite a bit about metallurgical properties and rupture strengths. I just can't get myself to trust a 1/8" pin to take the beating from bumps based on that knowledge...unless I make it myself out of Tungsten Carbide.

 

I understand your reluctance -- but have you calculated the strength required? It's not going to be rupture strength but shear strength to some extent because if it's done right, the pin just fits and has a good deal of contact all around. You'd basically have to have the two sections cut it in pieces.

It's all academic and not scientific without the following pieces of information:

1. The forces experienced by the sway bar.
2. The strength of the pin when applied as it is here.

Without those pieces of information and the necessary calculations, it's ALL an experiment. Tungsten carbide is quite brittle, isn't it? It may not be the ideal material either, hardness excepted. Hardness is not always the main property one needs. This is why other engineered materials exist besides it!

I work in a steel mill, so metallurgy is part of our work as well -- however, you need more information on the mechanical system itself to figure out what's adequately strong.

If mine continue to work, then it's a case of something working in practice, that doesn't work in "theory", lol. However, the theory here has no numbers associated with it, so there's not much to either defend or criticize in either my position or yours -- none of us really know.