IMO ball joints from the factory suckkkkk!!! Overall lol MOOG FTW!

 

yes stock cv's dont like high angles which is why i say dont crank tbars all the way, I know nobody will listen and just do it anyway :p, when i first got mine people said "just dont crank the bars" but i did it anyway and now I have thousands of $$ into a setup that can actually handle it.

if your not down to spend the huge amount of money to go SAS or my route I would stick to the 33's like ive been saying because you WILL either end up selling your truck or doing the swap anyway

 

do you have beefed up susp in front?

 

Scratch that.. Just saw your build thread... Holy fu#kin sh#t!!!! You the man!!

 

im confused. if i do a 4in superlift.....why do i have to get AAl in the rear to even it out? when doing a suspension lift alone, its uneven?

 

superlift kit comes with a lift block in the rear but an AAL is better. you do not need the aal though

-aal will have a slightly stiffer ride with more payload
-superlift 3" block will keep factory ride quality but more axle wrap

 

Superlift wants you to stack their 3" block on top of the factory 2.5" block. They even include super long 7/16" U-bolts. It's kind of a sketch way to lift.

The smarter alternative for that additional 3" lift would be a short AAL (approx 1.5" lift) and Belltech 6400 shackle (approx 1.5" lift). That was my setup from the get-go after the front Superlift install.