Did a search but did not find any info. Started to adjust the bars today. Only wanted to go up 2" did the penetrating oil let it sit overnight. Went out and when I started to try and turn the bolts..No Go. The second time it looked like the head moved a bit but not the bolt it self. Did not want to snap the bolt...so down it cam with no adjustment. Even put a little heat to it but still no go.. What next..take it to a shop and have new keys put in along with new bolts. The passenger side bolt measured 1 1/2" while the driver side was 7/8". The wheels are 245x75x16 and the height from the bottom lip of the wheel to top of fender opening is 31" both sides. The rear measurement from bottom of wheel lip to top of fender opening is 38" driver side/36" pass side..what would cause this 9worn leaf springs) any suggestions will be appreciated.

 

well the drivers side bolt is always gonna be in more because there is more weight on that side...and did you try to crank them with weight on the tires?

 

No I had the truck jacked up off the ground, so the tires were a good 3" off the floor.

 

hmm yea its a good think you stopped...last thing you want to do is snap one...make a sig with your trucks info...that will all make our lives a little easier when it comes to helping you lol

 

Did you use a breaker bar or just a 12" ratchet?

 

x2.
You need to really reef on them.

 

They are coated in loctite I doubt the oil will help.

I have cranked mine long ago, did with 1/2 ratchet and it was a real PITA. I did mine with all the weight on the wheels.

Only way to make it easier is to use the bar puller to get the weight off and adjust the bolt then.

 

Okay here is my problem. I do not know if the truck 2004 Ranger XLT ext cab 4x4 has already had the twist done to the bars. I understand that the back is already higher than the front but on my truck it is already 7" higher than the front. Like I said the distance in the front is 31" from top outside edge of fender well to bottom lip of the wheel. The rear doing the same is 38" on pass side 36" on driver side (what would cause that worn leaf springs) it seems to have the factory 2" block. I have ordered 4 new FX4 shocks for the truck. The ride is already quite stiff, which makes me feel a twist has already been done.

 

The 38" to 36" difference is known as the Ranger lean. With the weight of the gas tank on the driver's side plus the weight of the driver they tend to squat on that side.

 

7 inches wow

Buy new bars get the 1 code bars if you can, sounds like they are toast.

 

My new Ranger XLT 4x4 SuperCab measures ~ 19.5" fender lip down to hub centre all around, unloaded.

 

But the low side is the passenger side not the driver's side. I could see the D side being lower, but the side that does not have the extra weight is the lower side????

 

I measured mine from the fender lip to the bottom of the rim all around. My fronts are both 31.5, but the D.Side adjusting bolt looks like it has no more length left. Like I said the D.Side has 1 1/2" showing, while the P.Side has 7/8" showing. wondering if the low side leaf spring is getting worn out. Truck has 76K but I do not know how it was used before I bought it.

 

That measurement will vary with different rim diameters.

If you measure to the hub centre you have a measurement that is independent of wheel and tire size.

 

I wouldn't worry about it being off in the back, if nothing is visibly wrong with it. Check your leaf spring hangers and shackles for damage...other wise, it's not uncommon for them to off.

 

when i cranked mine i just jacked the truck up, used and air ratchet and took the bolts out. i used a wire wheel on a bench grinder to take all the loctite off and put some new loctite on the bottom 1/2" or so of threads (i maxed my bars). then i just zipped the bolts back in with the air ratchet and snugged them up by hand so i knew they were all the way in.

x2 on checking your hangers and shackles. on my 95 i eventually replaced all 4 hangers, both leaves, and both shackles. all due to rust.