Hey guys, I've got a '99 Mazda b3000 4x4.
I'm looking to replace the shocks so I can have a smoother ride (will be slowly swapping most of the suspension and hubs).

I will be doing 80% daily driving on mostly poorly paved streets and 20% off road (nothing crazy).

Right now I'm trying to decide between the Rancho RS5000 or RS9000 series.
Seems like the main difference is the ability to adjust the shocks on the 9000s.
However, I don't think I'll be doing any towing or off roading that's heavy duty enough to entirely justify the need for adjustable shocks.
I'm also thinking that I could use the extra $200 to invest in other areas of the truck that need work.

I previously had the Bilstein 4600 shocks on my last Ranger and they were a bit stiff for my liking.
From reading reviews it sounds like the RS5000 are somewhat smoother, would y'all agree with this?

I'm curious of any other suggestions y'all may offer for a daily driver that will only get the occasional off road on some easy trails.

 

Shocks are there to stop springs from bouncing too much, for best ride out of the two, the RS5000, the less aggressive the better


The Rant, or info, on ride determination
The springs are what determine the "ride" of the vehicle, stiff shocks can make it ride rougher but can't make it ride smoother if its "over sprung"

Pickup trucks are "over sprung" in the rear from the factory, they have to be to get the 1,000lbs(1/2 ton) rating.

Rangers weigh about 3,000lbs, about..........so while not technically correct we will assume 2,000lbs on from axle and 1,000lbs on rear, just for describing suspension systems in general

Springs, whether they are coil, torsion or leaf are weight rated
The front of a pick up truck has a "known" weight, say 2,000lbs.
When front wheels hit a bump the spring defects up against this 2,000lbs weight, so properly rated spring absorbs most the the bump.
If you put in a spring rated for 4,000lbs then when front wheels hit a bump springs would not deflect much at all(not enough weight to hold them down) and bump would be transferred to the frame and cab, bumpy ride.

There are people that want higher ride height in the front and "crank up" torsion bar position, which is increasing its weight rating, if it was 2,000lbs it would now be 3,000lbs which is why front frame and body gets higher, but now it has less defection so rougher ride.
Same with coil spring spacers, you are taking those coils out of the picture because they can no longer compress(move closer together) so rougher ride.

Your Ranger should have correct spring weight on the front for a smooth ride if no modifications have been made, "off-road" packages can be a little stiffer.

Rear of pick up weighs 1,000lbs but has leaf springs that are rated for 2,000lbs.
Outside of throwing 500lbs weight into the bed it is hard to get a smooth ride at the rear.
So leaf springs should be changed and an overload spring added, the overload spring doesn't touch the frame until load in the bed exceeds say 500lbs so ride is smooth empty.


Shocks are oil filled cylinders with plates inside, the plates have holes in them, smaller holes and larger holes.
When shock is compressed the oil is forced thru the holes, this slows the compression of the springs, you want the larger holes to be used first allowing springs to do there job, absorb bumps, as a spring compresses more, larger bump, the smaller holes come into play slowing the larger defection.
As the spring uncompresses the oil flows in the opposite direction, it goes back thru the holes slowing springs return to prevent bouncing after hitting a bump.

Softer shocks simply have larger holes on the first used plates, allowing properly rated springs to do their job

Shock are not technically a part of the suspension, they hold no weight, they are there to act as dampers for the springs, so it all starts with the springs.

With shocks removed bounce the front and back of a vehicle, if springs are correct for a GOOD RIDE then it will bounce easily, if its stiff then thats the ride you will get, no shock can change that


Tire pressure...........your tires YOUR PRESSURE
Tires come into contact with bumps FIRST, they absorb defections FIRST
You should run the tire pressure that you get the best ride with, which is usually lower pressure.

Off-road shocks are about recovery time, driving fast on washboard roads requires shocks to recover quicker, transfer that oil quicker, so they don't become "stiff".
So really nothing to do with what most consider "off-roading" which is not about speed, more about exploring non-paved roads or no roads, lol.
Off-road shocks do have a cool look, but thats what you are buying if you aren't running full out on bumpy roads, and if you do, just lower the tire pressure, and spend extra money on 12v compressor to air up afterwards

 

That was very enlightening, thanks for the info! I'll look into checking the springs when I have the shocks off.

 

Hydraulic Shock will ride better than Gas Shocks, just what they are.

If you plan on Off-Road Trips over rough roads/backroad, the gas shock might work out but they may not give you the ride you want.

IMHO, go to a shop that know shocks, not a muffler shop, but something like Off-Road Warehouse.