33's and 4:10 or 4:56? - Page 2 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Wheels & Tires Semi-Tech General discussion of wheels and tires for the Ford Ranger.
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  #26  
Old 01-10-2013
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Originally Posted by 99offroadrngr View Post
ringpinion.com

i don't mind 4.10 and 33s. with the 4.0L i can break the rear tires loose on dry pavement without an issue, even on the economy tune.
4.56 would be pretty damn nice though
I can break the 265/55s loose right now, but that isn't even fun.

$230 for a 4.56s an axle.

So it'd be like $500 for front and back.
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  #27  
Old 01-10-2013
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Originally Posted by StxDangerRanger View Post
I can break the 265/55s loose right now, but that isn't even fun.

$230 for a 4.56s an axle.

So it'd be like $500 for front and back.
yeah its not fun but it shows the truck still has power with the larger tires. 4.56 would be ideal with 33s though.
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  #28  
Old 01-11-2013
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Originally Posted by StxDangerRanger View Post
So it'd be like $500 for front and back.
That's for the basic parts only...you may want to get a master overhaul kit in additional, since it includes new bearings & shims - all sorts of stuff.

Unless your skilled, you will want to have the gears professionally installed by someone (it's too much to setup for my liking).

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Originally Posted by StxDangerRanger View Post
What kind of cash did you guys drop on gears if you don't mind telling?
The entire project ran me about $2,000 for the install of my 4.88's.

Last edited by logan03CO; 01-11-2013 at 05:49 AM.
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  #29  
Old 01-11-2013
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I have 4.10's with 33's.. I don't plan to regear until I hit double lift and go to 35's.. Then I will switch to 35's. My setup now isn't terrible, but towing a Honda accord cross country from California to Indiana was a PITA, gearing would have been helpful.
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  #30  
Old 01-11-2013
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Originally Posted by logan03CO View Post
That's for the basic parts only...you may want to get a master overhaul kit in additional, since it includes new bearings & shims - all sorts of stuff.

Unless your skilled, you will want to have the gears professionally installed by someone (it's too much to setup for my liking).



The entire project ran me about $2,000 for the install of my 4.88's.
I can get the basic setup done, but i know my old man is **** at gearing, He switched my Grand National over from 3.50s to 3.73's

My only issue with the project is the dis-assembly of the front axle. I feel like thats a pain
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  #31  
Old 01-11-2013
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When I re geared I payed $500 for gears and master install kit, I did the install myself. I don't recommend it if you are unfamiliar with setting gears.
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  #32  
Old 01-11-2013
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Originally Posted by StxDangerRanger View Post
I can get the basic setup done, but i know my old man is **** at gearing, He switched my Grand National over from 3.50s to 3.73's

My only issue with the project is the dis-assembly of the front axle. I feel like thats a pain
Removing the axle isnt to bad, the hardest part is getting the CV's to come loose and then getting them to slide back into place.
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  #33  
Old 01-11-2013
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I'm running 33x12.5s with the stock 4.10s and I'm getting around 18mpg on the highway. City mileage dropped to around 14. The truck takes off a little slower with the larger tires and stock gears, but its not overly noticeable to me at least. According to the gear ratio/tire size charts 33's would actually be "stock" with 4.27s, so 4.56's might even be too short for some's preferences. I'm considering putting 4.56's in just because I plan on trying 35's in the future.
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  #34  
Old 01-11-2013
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Originally Posted by 01_ranger_4x4 View Post
When I re geared I payed $500 for gears and master install kit, I did the install myself. I don't recommend it if you are unfamiliar with setting gears.
I'd have my dad do the gear part. But teardown isn't nothing.

I'm still debating swapping CV's and Hubs to 01+ so i don't have to deal with PVH anymore.

If i did that, i'd probably gear at the same time.
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  #35  
Old 01-11-2013
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Originally Posted by StxDangerRanger View Post
I'd have my dad do the gear part. But teardown isn't nothing.

I'm still debating swapping CV's and Hubs to 01+ so i don't have to deal with PVH anymore.

If i did that, i'd probably gear at the same time.
That is a worthwhile swap. The teardown is easy either way but yeah it would be a good time to do that since you will already have the CV's out. The front was actually easier to do than the back because I took the entire center section out and threw it on the bench, made the process much easier on my back!
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  #36  
Old 01-11-2013
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Edit: never mind lol
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  #37  
Old 01-11-2013
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If you are not going to do the 01+ front end swap you would only need to disassymbol the passenger side. You can slide the diff to the passenger side off the divers CV.
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  #38  
Old 08-22-2013
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I'm running 255/85-16's (33.3) with 4.10's with no issue. The 93 octane tune is great on power. CAI and exhaust help slightly with power. I tow 4,000lbs nearly everyday on a 65 mile one way trip, twice a day. Not towing I get 18.2 city and 22.8 highway. Towing I get right at 17.5 on highway.
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  #39  
Old 08-22-2013
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CAI's dont do ****. they make your truck worse specially in the summer months when your IAT gets hot. I'm glad mine is gone. It was free and sounded cool but it wasn't even worth free lol
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  #40  
Old 08-22-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2002edge4x4 View Post
I'm running 255/85-16's (33.3) with 4.10's with no issue. The 93 octane tune is great on power. CAI and exhaust help slightly with power. I tow 4,000lbs nearly everyday on a 65 mile one way trip, twice a day. Not towing I get 18.2 city and 22.8 highway. Towing I get right at 17.5 on highway.
I upgraded from 4.10s to 4.56 with 285/75r16 tires and the change was night and day. The truck moves of the line and has much better passing power on the highway. At 70 my truck runs around 2600 rpm up from 2500 stock with 4.10s
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