Wheels & Tires Semi-Tech General discussion of wheels and tires for the Ford Ranger.

Need to make the right purchase this time, wheels and tires.

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Old Jun 1, 2012
  #1  
andddrew says's Avatar
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Need to make the right purchase this time, wheels and tires.

So last year i purchased Moto Metal wheels with Toyo Open country tires, within a few months of the purchase i realized this was not going to cut it for me. My tires are load range D, which is O.K but with my wheels that are the wrong backspacing/offset i had to get a suspension lift to be able to drive without rubbing everywhere i go. Now with a little more funds in my account i'm willing to drop some more money on finding the right shoes for my truck. If anyone can guide me in the right direction as to what backspacing works best (i want to wheels stickin out of my fender a little) also i want to be able to drive without feeling every bump in the road, preferably a LOAD C or P metric as i was told by my local mechanic, which is the same mechanic that sold me load D tires so i'm somewhat apprehensive.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2012
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bfd's_ranger's Avatar
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What size are you gunning for? What Kind of use will they see?
 
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Old Jun 2, 2012
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RLong31's Avatar
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Stick with a Load C tire... P metric is more for SUV/Passenger vehicles. Not so good if you plan on using it as a truck. But.. just my opinion.. I've run both on mine... Load C in my 33's... P's in my 245's before the BL.

As far as backspacing... 3.5-4 inches is about right. a LOT of rims are 3.75ish. I think the Mickey Thompson Classic Locks and Classic II's are 3.25.. less backspacing equals sticking out further.. Plus those both look good.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2012
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There is nothing wrong with the load range D's. Put the proper pressure in them and move on. If the backspacing is wrong look at a good set of wheel spacers. Make sure you check them every time you change the oil. Loctite helps as well.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2012
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I just wrote this somewhere else… I am just learning a lot of this stuff because I made the wrong tire/wheel selection myself.

16” Mud tires or LT tires are load range “E”, no other way, why have not been able to get an answer from any manufacturers’.
15” tire 33s and 35s are load range “C” or the new rating 108 to 112 all equates to “C”.

I will be buying a new set of 15” rims and 33x12.5 tire soon enough but for now I have to put up with a rougher ride and a lot of bounce.

Oh ya, lowering the tire pressure to compensate for the harder ride is a No-No… it only leads to bad tire wear and more noise from the tires. I rotated my 16” tire every three months, five times so far and i have two of the tires, that had the lowest pressure in them, are now slappers, with the whack/whack noise, very annoying.

My new tires will be either the 15” BFG KM2 or the ATs.

Another “Oh Ya”… rims, no more than 4” BS, I find this works but it rubs some on the 285s with 4” lift; I think stk is 3 3/4”.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2012
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From: EAFB, Sd
Originally Posted by Scrambler82
I just wrote this somewhere else… I am just learning a lot of this stuff because I made the wrong tire/wheel selection myself.

16” Mud tires or LT tires are load range “E”, no other way, why have not been able to get an answer from any manufacturers’.
15” tire 33s and 35s are load range “C” or the new rating 108 to 112 all equates to “C”.

I will be buying a new set of 15” rims and 33x12.5 tire soon enough but for now I have to put up with a rougher ride and a lot of bounce.

Oh ya, lowering the tire pressure to compensate for the harder ride is a No-No… it only leads to bad tire wear and more noise from the tires. I rotated my 16” tire every three months, five times so far and i have two of the tires, that had the lowest pressure in them, are now slappers, with the whack/whack noise, very annoying.

My new tires will be either the 15” BFG KM2 or the ATs.

Another “Oh Ya”… rims, no more than 4” BS, I find this works but it rubs some on the 285s with 4” lift; I think stk is 3 3/4”.
Lowering the tire pressure is not a no-no if you do it correctly. Just because the sidewall says max of 80PSI doesn't mean that's what they perform correctly at. Good old chalk on the tread and making it wear even at whatever PSI that requires tends to work.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2012
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P metric Load range, and LT load range c,d,e,f,g,h are completely different. The difference lies in the max pressure 50 for C, 65 for D, 80 for E, 95 for F, and so on. P rated is generally 44 psi, with few exceptions.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2012
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Originally Posted by cdawall
Lowering the tire pressure is not a no-no if you do it correctly. Just because the sidewall says max of 80PSI doesn't mean that's what they perform correctly at. Good old chalk on the tread and making it wear even at whatever PSI that requires tends to work.
As the load range of the tire goes up, c to d to e, side wall strength increases and in turn a harder ride in a lighter truck.
Each tire has it perfect tire pressure based on the tire and the weight it is holding up and if you vary too much from that pressure you end up with incorrectly worn tires. You can go just so low on a tire before it does not perform the way it should, tire pattern and cornering.

Originally Posted by bfd's_ranger
P metric Load range, and LT load range c,d,e,f,g,h are completely different. The difference lies in the max pressure 50 for C, 65 for D, 80 for E, 95 for F, and so on. P rated is generally 44 psi, with few exceptions.
I have found that most 16” Metric tire size, 285x75x16 and the like are all “E” rated, the equivalent in a std size, 33x12.5x15, is rated “C”…, the same hold for the 35s I have been looking at.

Just what I have run into over the last year.
Go 15” tires with a std tire size, 31,32,33,35… etc.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2012
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cdawall's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Scrambler82
As the load range of the tire goes up, c to d to e, side wall strength increases and in turn a harder ride in a lighter truck.
Each tire has it perfect tire pressure based on the tire and the weight it is holding up and if you vary too much from that pressure you end up with incorrectly worn tires. You can go just so low on a tire before it does not perform the way it should, tire pattern and cornering.
Isn't that exactly what I said? If you want to be specific all offroady BFG tires should ride like **** C, D and E all feature a thicker sidewall than they should. However Pitbull tires should ride like a dream since they are only a 2 ply sidewall no matter the load range.

Originally Posted by Scrambler82
I have found that most 16” Metric tire size, 285x75x16 and the like are all “E” rated, the equivalent in a std size, 33x12.5x15, is rated “C”…, the same hold for the 35s I have been looking at.

Just what I have run into over the last year.
Go 15” tires with a std tire size, 31,32,33,35… etc.
You can get almost all metric tires in both D and E ratings. Load range D is plenty light for a Ranger.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2012
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andddrew says's Avatar
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I want to go with 31x10.50 BFG A/T just need some good wheels options. I liked the Mickey Thompson Classic Locks but they are supposedly out of stock everywhere i check locally. I like the looks of the wheels and they seem to be popular amongst this community. What are some other options for wheels, looking for under 3.75 backspacing. I had the cragar soft 8, daytonas in mind but im still not too sure.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2012
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Originally Posted by bfd's_ranger
P metric Load range, and LT load range c,d,e,f,g,h are completely different. The difference lies in the max pressure 50 for C, 65 for D, 80 for E, 95 for F, and so on. P rated is generally 44 psi, with few exceptions.
gotta correct ya there as i have a set of 33x12.5's load C and max is 35 psi.





Buy 32x11.5's. BFG 32 is a 31.7"
 
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Old Jun 7, 2012
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Max PSI depends on the tire I believe.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2012
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Originally Posted by 06RangerXLT
gotta correct ya there as i have a set of 33x12.5's load C and max is 35 psi.





Buy 32x11.5's. BFG 32 is a 31.7"
Correct larger high flotation fitments can have lower pressure specs. Other than that exception the load rating will follow those pressure specs.
 
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