My Ranger is sick and I don't know whats wrong..
#1
My Ranger is sick and I don't know whats wrong..
I'm not sure if this should go here or in another section of the forum so move it if need be. When I was on my way home from work today I noticed that when I applied the brakes and some almost to a stop my truck would act like it was still wanting to go foward. Almost like the gas was still being pushed. So when I pulled onto my road I came to a stop and put it in park. I could hear it idleing very fast like I had my foot on the gas then I would hear and kinda feel a popping sound and the idle would drop slightly then go right back up again. This kept on happening over and over. I pushed in the brake and put the truck in drive and then let out of the brake. Without giving it any gas my truck took off down the road doing like 25 to 30mph without me ever touching the gas. Does anyone have a clue what might be causing this to happen? Oh yeah I guess I should say I have a 2000 model Ranger 3.0 FF with automatic trans.
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had this problem a few months back. check the Mass Air Sensor. after your air box. i played with my gas line and fuel injectors for days thinking i had dirt in it. and all along it was the sensor. ford had to reprogram my computer after replacing the sensor.
any chance of getting water in you air fliter? thats what did it for me. FIPK + MUD = TROUBLE!
any chance of getting water in you air fliter? thats what did it for me. FIPK + MUD = TROUBLE!
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Ok thanks for the pic. I found the IAC on my truck and took it off to inspect it. The side with the sping in it has a lot of black carbon build up I guess it is with white specs in it as well. The other side with the sensor has some pretty bad build up all over the sensor. I understand how this IAC can cause the idle problem, but how does it effect the truck when I put it in drive and it seems like the gas is pushed in but its not? Is the IAC still working even when it's not in park?
#15
The IAC effects the way the engine is running....period. When you drive down the road....the rpms are higher than idle....when you coast toward a stop, and the engine stays at the higher rpm...there's the iac sticking. And since you have an auto, and the engine rpm is high...the engine will still "pull" even when you are off the throttle...because the iac is sticking.
I have a manual....and I ususally cruise around town at 2500-3000 rpm......and when i slow down to a stop, push in clutch...the engine will stay at that rpm until i'm just about completely stopped. That's what mine did.
Above is what i make benefit from the cultural/technical learnings of the ranger of forums.com.
I have a manual....and I ususally cruise around town at 2500-3000 rpm......and when i slow down to a stop, push in clutch...the engine will stay at that rpm until i'm just about completely stopped. That's what mine did.
Above is what i make benefit from the cultural/technical learnings of the ranger of forums.com.
#16
Your going to have to get all the carbon out of it and especially where the valve and it's seat are. If the valve don't seal you will have trouble. I just cleaned mine yesterday and it still had some carbon. It did help it and I will take it off and clean it again. Maybe I can save the $60 if I can get the valve to seat. Mine don't stick, it just don't seat and seal off the chamber.
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