Im new to this site and i need some help really bad


i hav a 99 Ford ranger with a 3.0 v6 vin code v. it ran but had a bad head gasket so i replace the head gasket and a water pump while i was there i replace the crank and cam sensor.

so i finish the job and now the truck will crank and will not start i have no spark and I'm not getting injector pulse that why i replace the cam and crank. so I'm stuck now prior to the truck running before i did the head gasket i had no tach on the cluster any help will be greatly appreciated

Thanks Dave

 

Welcome to the forum

1999 3.0l Ranger should have PATS anti-theft system, it will disable fuel pump and fuel injection if correct PATS key is not used, Anti-Theft light on dash should flash rapidly if that happens.

CKP(crank position) sensor pulse may not be getting to the computer.

CKP "reads" a tone wheel behind the crank pulley.
This tone wheel looks like a gear, it has 35 teeth, one tooth every 10degs, then a gap where 36th tooth would be, for 360deg full circle
The gap tells computer when #1 is at Top Dead Center(TDC) this times the spark and fuel injection.
Computer must see 35 pulses then a gap, then 35 pulse and a gap, ect.....
If one of the 35 teeth is damaged then there would be 2 gaps and computer wouldn't know when to start spark or fuel.
So check the tone wheel.

CKP sensor is a Variable Reluctance(VR) sensor so generates its own power, you can use a Volt Meter set to AC Volts to test CKP sensor.
.5v to 1.5volts AC will show on meter while engine is cranking, higher crank speed will show higher voltage, 0 volts means CKP sensor is either not working or is to far away from tone wheel.

CPS(cam sensor) is used to fine tune fuel injection, so shouldn't cause a no start.

Tach RPMs are from the CKP sensor pulse sent to computer, computer then sends tach signal out to the dash.


Have you tried adding fuel manually to the intake?
to confirm no spark

Have you pulled out a spark plug after cranking?
to confirm it is dry, so no fuel coming in

Do you hear the fuel pump run for 2 seconds each time key is turned on?
It isn't quiet, it is easy to hear

 

i check the crank wiring there is 1.5 volts there

the fuel pump comes on.
there is no anti theft light on while cranking

i will check the plugs to confirm it dry

 

well now the security light is blinking real fast

and before the light was on for theft i spray starter flooded and no start

 

If anti-theft light is flashing fast then fuel pump should not be coming on any longer.

Unhook battery for 5 minutes

Then try key on again to see if anti-theft(PATS) system has reset.

When key is on check Coil Pack's red wire for 12volts
There are 3 coils inside the coil pack, chances of all 3 failing at the same time would be non-exsistant.
If coil pack has 12volts but still no spark then computer is not Grounding coils.

Are you sure you hooked up all the wires that were removed for the head job, Ground wires are very important in computer systems, Grounds are used to control spark and fuel.

In 1995 and up the Ranger spark systems are fairly simple.

CKP sensor---------Computer-------------coil pack----------spark plug

Coil pack can be tested in two ways, with OHM meter, and buy Grounding
3.0l coil pack will have 4 engine wires, Red wire is power(12v) other 3 are Grounds used to "fire" each of the 3 coils.

Any automotive coil works the same way
Inside it has a Primary coil, literally a coil of wire with say 100 loops of wire
And a Secondary coil, again just a coiled wire, but it will have say 10,000 loops

When you pass 12volts thru Primary coil it builds up a static charge in the Secondary coil, voltage is multiplied by increased number of loops in Secondary coil, static charge is held in place by magnetic field of Primary coil.
To discharge Secondary's static charge you need to cut voltage to Primary coil, this collapses the magnetic field, and Secondary coil's voltage is released.
12volts becomes 24,000volts(almost no amps though).
And that jumps the gap of spark plug.

Ground is used to turn on and off the Primary coils power, you could use the 12v as well, just wiring wise it works better to use Grounds since they really can "short out" and blow fuses or start fires.

So you can pull a spark plug out, hook it back up to its spark plug wire, ground spark plug against engine or any metal engine part.
Turn on the key
Then Ground that coils ground wire to power up coil, then remove the ground, should see a spark at that moment.

You can use a safety pin or sewing pin to pierce the Ground wire at the coil, and use a jumper wire to Ground it

The wiring on 3.0l coil should be
Red(12v)--GND1--GND2--GND3

[O]---[O]---[O]
[O]---[O]---[O]
GND1-GND2-GND3

Each GND(coil) spark 2 spark plugs at the same time