I'm currently driving my grandparents 98 Ford Ranger 3.0 V6 4x4 offroad and it has a rough time when going in reverse. I started to notice this happening about 2 weeks ago, it started out with a little lose in power when going in reverse but now has turned in to only going backwards when it hits about 2k on the tach and sometimes wont move even if you red line it. I noticed that it also helps if i put in 4x4 low but is a bit jerky when it does. ive also had some symptoms of it having a hard time going from 2nd to 3rd gear. other than that truck runs fine. i hope that i dont need to get a new trans and that it is a simple fix, I've read that it could just be the servo seal or solenoid but not sure how true that is. anyways thanks in advanced.

 

Welcome to the forum

Assume automatic transmission?
And fluid level is OK


Automatics operate on pressure, Reverse requires the highest pressure, above 150psi, to engage.
If you look at the inside of an automatic you will see numerous passages and valves, these are there to direct and increase pressure.
As transmission gets older the gaskets and valves will start to leak, normal wear and tear, just like a clutch disc wears out on a manual trans.

When there are enough leaks the pressure for Reverse will drop too low for full engagement, so a delay to engage and/or increased RPM(increased pump speed) required to engage Reverse.
Classic automatic problem always starts with problems in Reverse

This will also effect Forward gears as they also need pressure to engage fully.

This "slipping" because of low pressure will also start to damage the bands, and heat up trans fluid.
Heat is what wears out automatics the fastest, fluid gets very thin and blows out gaskets fast.

You can try Lucas Transmission Fix or similar, these additives swell gaskets so can slow or stop internal leaks, but it is temporary.

You will need to replace or rebuild the transmission.
And FULL Rebuild not just bands, servos and clutches(replacing only these will assure 12-18 life span)
Pump needs to be replaced, only use Ford pumps
Forward one-way clutch always needs to be replaced
And always a new torque converter

1998 Ranger 3.0l will have a 4R44E 4-speed automatic
If not overheated they are good for 250k miles usually

A transmission shop can connect pressure gauges to the transmission, and run it thru the gears to see what possible problems might be, but from your description it just sounds like trans is worn out and needs a rebuild

 

not what i was hoping for i still havent even bought the truck and might need a new trans. i've looked up numbers on a rebuild and it could run me as much money as im buying it for. im buying it for $1,800 and a trans rebuild can cost up to $1,500 with labor fees. Im in highschool still and only work part time so money is kind of a problem. But other than that could it just be the seal on the reverse servo or a solenoid, hell could even be a simple gasket on the valve body that needs replaced?

 

Yes, people often sell a vehicle when automatic starts to act up, you didn't have that "pass it on" problem, but just a heads up for the future.

You can replace the valve body and test/replace solenoids with transmission in the vehicle.
Newer valve body has gasket bonded to it which solved a common leakage issue in the 4R44E/5R44E transmissions.

High schools often have Auto Shops, they often work on students vehicles, and just for cost of parts.

Watch a few videos on rebuilding the 4R44E there are some tricks and goofs you need to know and avoid.

Google: 4r44e transmission valve body

If you do pull out the transmission....................
One BIG BIG mistake first time installers of automatics make is to not seat the torque converter onto the transmission FIRST!!!!!

Torque converter is put on to the transmissions input shaft then you slide it back towards trans, now keep push in and rotate torque converter you will feel it slide in at least TWO more times, and often hear a "click" noise
The torque converter drives the main pump(front pump) inside the transmission, so you need to lock it into the pump splines.

Torque converter will now be INSIDE the bell housing, not sticking out at all
You THEN install trans and bolt bell housing to the engine, tight
Torque converter is then rotated and bolted to the flexplate, torque converter will slide towards engine about 1/4"

If you fail to do this, then bell housing won't quite go on and you will force it on and use the bolts to snug it up, and you will often hear a click or clunk!!, and then bell housing slides on 'real nice'
that sound was the Main Pump breaking
You will finish the install, start the engine, put your "new" trans in gear and............NOTHING
no gears, no movement. at all

Requires FULL tear down to get to main pump to replace it

 

Good morning,

I had the transmission rebuilt in my Ranger a little over a year ago, and has worked fine. Pulled into a neighbor's driveway a couple of days ago, and when I put it into reverse, it took a few seconds for it to make up it's mind to go backwards. Later that day, same scenario, only this time it wouldn't go into reverse at all. Trans fluid is clean, level is spot on, all other gears working fine ( for now). Please help....

Thanks.....

 

The Rebuild probably had a 12 month warranty, which means they did a soft parts rebuild only which pretty much guarantees it will fail at about 15-18months
You have a 4R44E transmission in a 1998 2.5l Ranger

I assume Forward still works?
And no slipping?

You could just have a blown out gasket/seal in the valve body, so it can be fixed in the vehicle, but really just a guess
Loss of Reverse is usually a pressure issue, Reverse requires 160psi pressure to engage, Forward only 110psi
So if there is a blow out then it shows up in Reverse first, usually
You do have a EPC(electronic pressure control) solenoid in a 4R so maybe...............

Has the OD light ever flashed?
This means transmission Trouble Codes have been set, you need a good OBD Reader to see these codes, they are P07XX codes

 

Your transmission is done for. Rebuild or replace, no other way to fix it. This is why manuals are better, they can last a million miles

 

You do know that post you replied to is from 4 years ago, I'm sure the problem has been resolved.

 

If Overdrive and Reverse are the only issue and all other gears work ok, then this is the problem..

 

Here is my dilemma, the truck will engage in reverse and will live forward in 2 and I have to manually shift to overdrive when up to speed. When doing so I shifts fine and will kick down to a passing gear as needed. However it spins when out in to overdrive or 1. You can literally hear the whine. Is my low heat band loose or is the sprag worn and needs replaced. Fluid levels are good and no overdrive light flashing.

 

Transmission uses a one-way clutch(sprag) to move the vehicle forward in D(OD) when starting off
If you manually shift to 2 or 1 then transmission uses Coast Clutch to move vehicle forward
So no movement in D but movement in 2 or 1 means one-way clutch is bad, period
Once moving you can shift back to D and trans can shift

Trans needs to be rebuilt or replaced